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Would you replace this radiator?

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by sjpitts, Jan 4, 2004.

  1. sjpitts

    sjpitts

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    I have got a slight radiator leak-- at the top seam. (I am attaching a picture-- hope you can see it)

    It is an 93, with 117k miles on it. I have only had it a year, and know nothing of the maintenance history. I would probably assume that the radiator is original. But maybe not.

    I am inclined just to replace the radiator. CDAN quoted me a price that seems remarkably cheap for an OEM radiator. Plus I live in Arizona, and am planning to tow my ski boat this year with the 80. Towing plus 110 degree temperatures tends to stress a radiator.

    I know the factory manual describes a repair solution. And I could probably have a local radiator shop take it apart to look at it, but I hate to have it down for a serious length of time.

    I am planning on doing a PHH repair and coolant flush in the new month. Should I just replace the thing at the same time?

    What would you do?

    Thanks

    Jared

    OK, second try-- here is a picture of the radiator leak

    http://home.netcom.com/~j_pitts/id2.html
     
  2. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    I personally would replace the radiator during the flush.
     
  3. Trunk Monkey

    Trunk Monkey Moderator

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    Replace it. Friend of mine was also "thinking" about replacing his, but didn't. Come summer and an overheat, he got to replace the whole motor instead.
     
  4. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    <<<<<<<"CDAN quoted me a price that seems remarkably cheap for an OEM radiator.">>>>>>>>>



    :D If you like, I could elevate it a bit to meet your expectations ;)
     
  5. Big_Moose

    Big_Moose

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    Jared

    CDan does have a good price on the OEM Rads ;)

    While you are replacing the radiator - you now have easy access to the Fan Clutch.
    For a small additional cost to feed his dogs, Dan has a good price on this item, which should be changed at the same time, especially if you are going to tow in the desert
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Warthog has made an excelent recommendation. You will have removed the clutch to install the radiator and A new one is a great idea.
     
  7. sjpitts

    sjpitts

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    [quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=9632;start=msg84539#msg84539 date=1073260543]
    <<<<<<<"CDAN quoted me a price that seems remarkably cheap for an OEM radiator.">>>>>>>>>


    :D If you like, I could elevate it a bit to meet your expectations ;)
    [/quote]

    No No, I like the new expectations better. :)

    Here is a link that shows pictures of the radiator. It really is a minor leak--still think I should replace?

    http://home.netcom.com/~j_pitts/id2.html

    I tried to attach these as a picture, but I have apparently not figured that out yet.

    jared
     
  8. Cruiserdrew

    Cruiserdrew SILVER Star

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    Padding my meager post count...Absolutely agree. Replace the radiator and the fan clutch. Consider replacing the water pump. I just went through chasing a hot running condition on the 60-it turned out to be the fan clutch. With the radiator out of the way, it is so simple to just replace it. Get a couple of tubes of that silicone oil and reoil the old one for a spare to take on long trips.
     
  9. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Yes, Do get it out of there at your earliest convience. It does not look too good. It probably wont crap out tomorrow but it is a time-bomb.
     
  10. MTNRAT

    MTNRAT SILVER Star

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    While you are there anyway, replace the thermostat as well. If you are going to tow, you will want a PERFECTLY functioning cooling system. Don't even think about repairing your rad. Flush the system as per instructions on an earlier thread. I put in a new rad, fan fluid coupling(clutch), and thermostat. Made a huge difference in towing temps. And I only had 70,000 mi on mine.
    Cheers,
    Sean
     
  11. Big_Moose

    Big_Moose

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    Ditto - CD's response, especially with the leak in the middle / weakest point of the seal.

    Easy remove / replace steps, only two bolts that could be considered difficult, and flush the block at the same time.

    After installation, point the truck up hill, on a ramp, etc., run / idle the truck with radiator cap off, & watch the temp guage. You need to bleed out all the trapped air bubbles or the car will run hot!. Again not a difficlut step.
     
  12. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Jared,

    I would follow everyone's advice and use this opportunity to do a complete overhaul on your cooling system using all OEM parts. Thermostat, radiator cap, fan clutch, radiator, PHH (and any other suspect hoses) and new belts. Living in the desert SW, towing, 11 years, and 117k miles... you'll be glad you did come summer time.

    Dan's '93 has about the same miles and his water pump was in perfect shape so that can be an optional replacement part. The thermostat, belts, and rad cap are inexpensive. We've seen a lot of fan clutch failures around your mileage and earlier. The radiators are not good rebuild candidates when you compare the cost of repair to the cost of a new one.

    -B-
     
  13. crazy canuck

    crazy canuck Guest

    how much are we talking for a new one ?
     
  14. landtank

    landtank SILVER Star

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    I've got 125k on my truck and I can feel a little play in the fan clutch bearing. But it's winter and should last until it gets warmer.
     
  15. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    A new 3 row radiator, the one used for 93-94 is a 16400-66040.
    The list price is $501.24. A smart shopper can pick one up for around 375 bucks.