WORST FZJ80 Rear Sliding Window Leak (1 Viewer)

[Blacatoe]

This is a Hawai’i-based rig, so salt is a thing. Not sure if there’s a local body shop willing to take this on, but I’m presently hunting. I’ve searched for body panels to graft into the exist in panel, but living on an island make this an expensive shipment!
So perhaps this is an RTV sealant with a lot of JB Weld kinda job!?

 

[FJsapper]

Money sounds like a limiting factor. If that’s the case consider some fiberglass/resin. If you can purify the cancer and do good site prep it is a reasonably inexpensive option but requires some skill to employ. You would still need to use some metal to fill the role of that pinch weld. I wouldn’t trust the fiberglass there. But it could reinforce the area enough to get the job done.

 

[Wyatt Pine]

I would get quotes at body shops unless you have a welder. They will (hopefully) make sure there is no more corrosion happening there for another 20 years.

 

[bigredmachine]

a body shop may not touch that unless your getting a body cut for them to install. I have rust forming around the rear hatch glass and the body shop wouldn't touch it because they couldn't guarantee that the fix would hold up, they said come back with a hatch and well paint and install it.

 

[Swbkrn2003]

Might be best to find a donor vehicle. Or find a talented old school Body & Fender guy to metal for repair. I live in Hawaii and am in the process of putting in place rust prevention. On everything.

 

[BILT4ME]

I would find a body cut.

@slow95z

I know shipping to HI is not cheap, but it would be worth it.

New Toyota seals in and around the glass and frame. Have a body shop do it, but make sure they advise you how much and where they want the cuts. Also make sure to coat it well before installing the glass and frame.

 

[Rifleman]

I've gone through repairs like what your dealing with, when i was restoring the rusted out sheet metal around the rear window on a numbers matching 1969, 4 speed, 350 horse power, 396 Super Sport El Camino, and i can tell you it's NOT CHEAP to repair.

In the case of your rear lift hatch, I'd just buy a good used hatch from a salvage yard, trust me, doing it this way, even if you want to paint it to match, you'll still be way ahead money wise.

As for the side window. you need to see if you can find a donor truck, and cut that whole pannel out of that truck, and have it installed on yours, but I'll warn you, it's going to be expensive!

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Go to a one piece window and sikaflex it in.

 

[2fpower]

I likely have a piece I can cut out for you. Probably only need a few inches down from the window edge. Just pay for shipping. If you know someone flying over I can just ship to them.

Shoot me a PM if you want it...

 

[Blacatoe]

I likely have a piece I can cut out for you. Probably only need a few inches down from the window edge. Just pay for shipping. If you know someone flying over I can just ship to them.

Shoot me a PM if you want it...

I appreciate the offer. I ended up just picking a small piece at the local hardware store and bent the necessary angles with a vice.

 

[Blacatoe]

Go to a one piece window and sikaflex it in.

Going for low budget here, but thanks for the recommendation!

 

[Blacatoe]

So I spent the weekend completing the repairs myself in lieu of paying an obscene mount to a body shop. I elected to cut & bend a 13in sheet of steel in order to fill the rusted out gap. With no welder on hand I opted to rivet the piece into the existing body, reinforced with high strength JB Weld, and waterproofed with a combo of 3M Marine Grade Silicon Sealant & waterproof gap filler between the gap of the interior/exterior panels. Since all the rubber gaskets were surprisingly still in good condition I just soaked them in hot water and thoroughly cleaned then before reinstallation.