GM Work Truck Build (1 Viewer)

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Jan 6, 2012
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Bought a 2000 silverado. 3/4 ton 6.0 truck 2wd. It used to be a county truck. I suspect the 4l80e is newer. Has iron heads. Cats are cut out. Drove it 30 miles from where I got it, runs surprisingly well. Need to give it a good look over before I really drive it any further. Just going to document my some basic baselining. Follow along if interested...
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Bought a 2000 silverado. 3/4 ton 6.0 truck 2wd. It used to be a county truck. I suspect the 4l80e is newer. Has iron heads. Cats are cut out. Drove it 30 miles from where I got it, runs surprisingly well. Need to give it a good look over before I really drive it any further. Just going to document my some basic baselining. Follow along if interested...View attachment 3113361
Why would you buy such a thing unless you fully intend to use it as a donor for the 6.0 to a Land Cruiser?!?!?!?!?!?
 
Why would you buy such a thing unless you fully intend to use it as a donor for the 6.0 to a Land Cruiser?!?!?!?!?!?
I needed a work truck that could tow a fair amount if needed.
How many miles? I forgot about the iron head 6.0s
230k. Yeah the iron heads have no head number on the corner I just learned
 
Well I missed this sadly...
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I was a bit off my game when I bought this truck. I injured my arm fairly badly the day before so I missed the rusted driver floor. With my arm I also can't weld. So a shop will do it for me. The past owner I think was unaware also. Exhaust is getting fixed too.
 
Holy crap! That could pass for something from the 70s

Rockers are OK? Those are bad about rotting out on those trucks.
 
what did you pay? No reason to drive a rusty chevy in the southeast unless it was under $1500
 
what did you pay? No reason to drive a rusty chevy in the southeast unless it was under $1500
Next cheapest 6.0 truck I could find was 1200 more than this one and about 500 miles away. Seems like prices have gone up, I've been keeping an eye out. I missed the floor pan when i was buying the truck and with my injury unfortunately I'm going to pay for it.
Holy crap! That could pass for something from the 70s

Rockers are OK? Those are bad about rotting out on those trucks.
Rest of the cab is OK. Once I'm in a position to fabricate again I can fix a lot more of the cosmetic issues. Although I kind of want to limit how far I go with it. The dash isn't cracked which is nice.
 
Well new floor pan is in. The guy that welded it in really struggled to grasp what I wanted. Should be good enough. He also welded in new cats, he did a terrible job. I'm going to have to go to a exhaust shop to fix it better. Also installed a new shifter cable.
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Got the exhaust fixed. Only real immediate need is a radiator. It's leaking a bit. I'm thinking of getting a Chinese aluminum radiator...
I really don't like plastic radiators that much and avoid them if I can. I'm going to see if I can find anyone on the forums using these radiators. The original clutch fan works great, its like only the original with truck clutch fans on gm stuff works right i guess. The power steering box will need rebuilt eventually due to seeping as well as the hydroboost will need new seals at some point. I'm injured, so I'm pretty limited on what I do. I'll get a shop to do a radiator and perhaps some shocks and everything should be good for a while until things settle down. Overall I'm happy with the truck. The floor rust was a definite unexpected issue but not too bad of a fix.
 
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I ended up replacing the radiator with a denso unit. Works great. I need to replace the driver door pins and ultimately the door. Used doors are cheap and plentiful. I replaced the broken stalk switch with a used one. Replaced the cracked washer tank with a used one as well. I also washed the engine compartment. A old trailer controller came with the truck. Replaced the trailer plug and it works. I also got a set of aluminum 317 heads I can port if I feel bored. I also used a cheap heavy duty door mat from home depot as a floor mat. All the cheap floor mats are too cheesy. Im getting 12 to 13 mpg city so far.
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