Won't IDLE-Have checked EVERYTHING! (1 Viewer)

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Sep 14, 2009
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North and South of Mason Dixon
What am I missing?! 78 with Trollhole Carb which has worked great until now.

All of a sudden, over the past couple of days, my rig won't idle once it has warmed up unless the choke is pulled out pretty much all the way. I can get it to lug along at 5-600rpm at 80%choke. It's clearly starving for fuel-if I give it a little shot of carb cleaner, it speeds right up.

I've checked the idle solenoid. I pulled it, cleaned it out (wasn't dirty), tested that I can blow through it when energized and can't when not. Fuse is good, but for good measure I hot-wired the solenoid to the battery and ran a separate ground from the carb to battery negative. While the solenoid was out, I sprayed carb cleaner in the opening and blew it out with compressed air.

Idle mixture screw. Pulled it, cleaned it (wasn't dirty), sprayed carb cleaner and compressed air and reinstalled it.

Vacuum. I only have 3 lines. PCV, Brake Booster, and vac advance. All of the lines and connectors are new. I sprayed them with carb cleaner and eventually disconnected and plugged everything. I sprayed all over the carb and manifold and vacuum lines and the only minor leak I have is at the throttle shaft, but that has always had a minor leak.

Fuel filter is new and fuel appears to be running freely. Air cleaner on or off doesn't matter. It does generate some vacuum in the fuel tank, so I tried it with NO gas cap. No difference.


Level of fuel in the carb window is not quite in the middle of the glass but at the top of the dog bone-maybe 1/8" low. It has always been there-even when it was running well. When I installed the carb I checked the intake manifold for the crack that you sometimes see in the bottom. It looked perfect. I have sprayed all over the intake manifold and see no sign of vacuum leakage.

I've got a newish ground cable from engine to frame and frame to battery. And I ran a separate one for testing from the carb mounting bolt to the battery.

Otherwise, it runs fine. I had it out for an hour today and except for having to pull the choke when I pulled up to a red light, I had no issues at all.

WHAT AM I MISSING?
 
Idle speed screw?
 
I would have to guess something clogging inside the carb. Sounds like time to pull it off and have it cleaned and all passages blown out. Sounds like you have covered everything else.
 
Set idle speed to 900 when normal and backed out mixture 2 turns. Still dies when warm. Will try to crank up idle screw even more.
 
Howdy! You may need to clean out the idle mix screw passages just like you did for the solinoid. How did you set the idle mix screw? If it is in all the way, then no fuel will flow thru it. John
 
Just for Ss&Gs, have you checked the timing?
 
Idle mixture is set for max vacuum at idle, which is around 18.
I pulled this screw and blasted the hole with carb cleaner and air.
Then returned the screw to its original position.
When it misbehaved, I backed it out a couple of turns to get it to idle better (unsuccessfully).
 
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You keep saying idle mixture screw, have you touched the idle speed screw?
Check the timing too, but it's probably crud stuck in a passage..
 
What vacuum are you pulling when running?
 
Sounds like a large manifold vacuum leak. Check the EGR to see if it is stuck open and the brake booster and PCV line for vacuum leaks.
 
Thanks pin_head, but I pulled and plugged both the booster and the pcv line.
 
Check oil for antifreeze
and antifreeze for oil

Run a quick compression check
 
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Idle mixture is set for max idle, which is around 18.
I pulled this screw and blasted the hole with carb cleaner and air.
Then returned the screw to its original position.
When it misbehaved, I backed it out a couple of turns to get it to idle better (unsuccessfully).

This is not right - you should be able to adjust it using the lean drop method to get the idle perfect.
Turning the screw all the way in should kill the engine.

If adjusting the idle mix screw is not making a difference the tip of the screw is bent/broke/marred or the seat into which it sits is toast.
Look at the end of the idle mix screw - it should be a smooth taper with no "rings" pressed into the circumference.

Do you have another idle mix screw?

Look very carefully at the seat it engages for any marks
 
What about the EGR?

I didn't mention that it's a GEN market vehicle. No EGR.

To the previous poster who was asking about the mixture screw. It is fine-it is not broken and seat is clean. When I first start it up, it runs fine-even idles fine with the choke in. If I take it out for a mile or two, it starts misbehaving and won't idle. I set the idle (when it's working right)) for max vacuum (around 18) at around 700 rpm with the mixture and idle speed screws. When it started misbehaving, I backed the mixture screw out a couple of turns and cranked the idle speed up to 900. It still stalls out when I take it out.

I have a few things to check today. Will check timing. Will push up the idle speed so that I can get it to run without using the choke. Will check vacuum when it's running right and when it's not.

It's got to be something that changes after it's been run around for a while.
 
It really sounds like a vac leak. But from what I can tell you have covered all those bases. It's just strange it does it after a couple miles. Makes me think it's intake manifold related.
 
possible cracked intake?
 
It's got to be something that changes after it's been run around for a while.


Well, back to most likely being heat related - i still vote for intake crack vacuum leak

Did you run the compression/leakdown test?
 

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