Builds Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild Now Part II! (1 Viewer)

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PSA: DON'T BE LIKE ME. THIS NUTS TORQUE SPEC IS ONLY 12FT/LB! YOU DO NOT WANT TO MESS THIS UP!!
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Great. little metal particles in the old cooler from the bottom end eruption. I flushed it as well as i could but i am way too paranoid there is something in there that could dislodge and clog a passage.
Anyone have a decently clean cooler for sale?
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I also cleaned and waxed the engine bay yesterday.

Waiting on a weld on drain bung for the upper oil pan to get ready for an eventual turbo kit, then the build will keep scootin.
 
I wouldn't sweat those marks. That is a cast piece. It just looks like the lava cooled against that. The don't polish the insides.

Looks great otherwise.

EDIT: Wow, you added a million pics. Awesome!

Just finished. LOTS more to come in the next few weeks. Want to document as much as i can to hopefully maybe help someone else as much as everyone else here has helped me!
 
Just finished. LOTS more to come in the next few weeks. Want to document as much as i can to hopefully maybe help someone else as much as everyone else here has helped me!
Great work. I would focus more on problem areas that you found along the way. I hate to say it's too many pics, but these need to be sorted somehow. I could help with that.
 
I don't mean to drag the thread off topic, but you did mention the very high ($10K !!?) cost for a "full rebuild".
Forgive my naivety, but isn't that what you are doing here?
If not, then what is meant by "full rebuild"?
And what do call this type of rebuild?
And why does it cost so much to do that? I'm mystified.

Lectures invited.
 
I don't mean to drag the thread off topic, but you did mention the very high ($10K !!?) cost for a "full rebuild".
Forgive my naivety, but isn't that what you are doing here?
If not, then what is meant by "full rebuild"?
And what do call this type of rebuild?
And why does it cost so much to do that? I'm mystified.

Lectures invited.
Add up the cost of using almost all OEM parts + $1200 for machining + consumables throughout the process you hit a high number quick. Not 10k like some have but I'm also doing all my own work. As a first time land cruiser owner and first bottom end build I knew I'd make a few mistakes and those genererally cost $$ to fix as well (like over torquing my oil cooler nut).
That being said I'm doing a new radiator, fan clutch, all new hoses, etc. That I probably didn't need to but now I'll have a pretty much zero mile motor .
I originally didn't plan on a full rebuild .Just maybe a head gasket on the donor motor. One thing leads to another and the block needed to be decked so I might as well hone and do new rings. At that point why not spend the $100 and do new bearings.. it's a slippery slope but it's peace of mind if I want to drive to the middle of nowhere that I'll know what is in there.
 
Been a long time since I updated and I have 100's of photos to upload of the assembly but first startup will be tonight or tomorrow!
Going to find a 300+ ftlb torque wrench (HF 3/4" special most likely), main coolant hoses, sway bar, drive shafts and bumper and we're good to start up.

Still need to decide what oil to run for break in. Good mineral likely w/o break in additives since the Zddp is for cams and im using the same cams.

Coolant wise I realized the heater cores will still have red coolant in them. I'm switching to green. May run pure distilled for a bit then drain and fill with green to get most of it out.
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Great job on the rebuild. Now come do mine.

Thanks! hoping though i never have to do it again on this thing. While incredibly rewarding, it was a mountain of work.

I've put about 6k on the motor now including a trip to MT and back to WA and A trip to the Bay area and back.
 
Nicely done! How much did the rebuild end up costing?

Honestly - I don't know. Somewhere around 6k if i had to guess. My logic was with the car purchase i'm still under 10k for a sub 100k rust free locked rig.
But i did a lot of "while you're in there" since it had 84k on the clock. I wanted this to go for the foreseeable future and used ALL OEM except for bearings as i trust Clevites to be just as good.

I did:
  • New bearings & rings.
  • Full head Deck tank & rebuild
  • Decked the block
  • Slight cylinder hone (they looked great, but had done since i wanted to do rings)
  • Every single gasket and hose replaced in the engine bay and all the way to the rear heater (besides hard lines, which were inspected)
  • new OEM radiator
  • used oil cooler
  • Front axle rebuild
  • Had an oil drain fitting TIG'd to the upper pan in case i decide to turbo in the future
  • Trans input seal
  • New driveshaft hardware
  • New wire harness
  • Front/rear axle/tcase fluids
  • Donor longblock & head since mine had a massive hole in it
  • Lots of new random hardware as i saw fit
  • Lots of tools i did't already own
  • Lots of things i'm sure i've already forgotten
I could have done it way cheaper i'm sure. But i wanted OEM for 99% of stuff for A ) the potential resale value and B ) to not have to worry for a long while. I could total all my invoices from Beno and get close to what it was based on the other big costs i know off the top of my head if anyone is really interested.

Here's a current pic at my new place with no real garage:bang: after a fresh wax last weekend....
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Finally got around to installing my CDL switch and hand throttle last night. Had to move the security blinker to a lower blank but wasn't too bad, though there was a random cut wire going to it.
Hand throttle install was easy but frustrating with big hands to do.
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Not super stoked on the cable routing since it kind of kinks but may take it out and reroute it. Tested and functions well. Just need to take note to use your foot to set rpm then lock in with the knob.
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Should have saved the CDL switch for when you eventually upgrade the stereo. ;)

I've read that the hand throttle is handy to have for certain situations, the idea is that you set the RPM with the foot throttle and then use the hand throttle to hold it there.
 
Not super stoked on the cable routing since it kind of kinks but may take it out and reroute it. Tested and functions well. Just need to take note to use your foot to set rpm then lock in with the knob.
Should have saved the CDL switch for when you eventually upgrade the stereo. ;)

I've read that the hand throttle is handy to have for certain situations, the idea is that you set the RPM with the foot throttle and then use the hand throttle to hold it there.

Yep! exactly what i plan to do. I'm going to do OBA eventually and wanted it for that/jumping cars/other battery intensive stationary tasks.

The CDL was an easy 10 minute job even the first time so i didn't mind. The stereo needs to be dealt with. I just cant decide what i want to do. I refuse to spend 600 bucks on a head unit. I'm leaning towards an android based one to run torque and such but can't decide which one.

Also working on deciding what gauges to pick up for the turbo kit i ordered as well.

Next weekend i'll be doing a full rear brake/hand brake rebuild. Thats gonna be fun :bang:
 
I went with a $90 Pioneer single DIN unit and it works great with the basic Pioneer speakers and underseat subwoofer. Nothing impressive from a "car audio" standpoint but light years ahead of the blown speakers I had before.
 
Need to update and add photos soon. Did a full rear brake overhaul including hand brake, new rotors, pads and calipers. What a PITA.

Looking for some suspension plan input as i start the full build out.

Planning on the following:
  1. OME BP-51s (regular length I think)
  2. 2850J front
  3. 2863 Rear


Im trying to figure out springs. Lots and lots of reading on them. Ive heard the 2850J + 2863 combo is a good level pair for when you have a lot of stuff in your rig.
I'll eventually have the following on the rig (near future)
  • ARB winch bumper
  • Dual batteries
  • Metaltech sliders (already on)
  • ARB dual drawer system + tools + recovery gear
  • ARB 63qt fridge
  • Rooftop tent sometimes
  • Hitch bike rack sometimes
  • moving up to 35s most likely
I was planning on going stock height ish but thinking of saying screw it and going 35s. With the turbo stock gears shouldnt be an issue.

Also considering what additional costs i'm not factoring in yet. Extended brake lines? Panhard bracket for only 2" lift? Caster plates?
Anyone have any input on OME spring choice for that weight of a rig?
 
Need to update and add photos soon. Did a full rear brake overhaul including hand brake, new rotors, pads and calipers. What a PITA.

Looking for some suspension plan input as i start the full build out.

Planning on the following:
  1. OME BP-51s (regular length I think)
  2. 2850J front
  3. 2863 Rear


Im trying to figure out springs. Lots and lots of reading on them. Ive heard the 2850J + 2863 combo is a good level pair for when you have a lot of stuff in your rig.
I'll eventually have the following on the rig (near future)
  • ARB winch bumper
  • Dual batteries
  • Metaltech sliders (already on)
  • ARB dual drawer system + tools + recovery gear
  • ARB 63qt fridge
  • Rooftop tent sometimes
  • Hitch bike rack sometimes
  • moving up to 35s most likely
I was planning on going stock height ish but thinking of saying screw it and going 35s. With the turbo stock gears shouldnt be an issue.

Also considering what additional costs i'm not factoring in yet. Extended brake lines? Panhard bracket for only 2" lift? Caster plates?
Anyone have any input on OME spring choice for that weight of a rig?

Drive someone else's heavy rig before beefcaking yours to be sure that's the route you want to take.
 
Drive someone else's heavy rig before beefcaking yours to be sure that's the route you want to take.

Valid point. It's definitely nice right now having a pretty light stock rig but i know once i do a bumper and winch, drawers and a fridge for camping that its just gonna be heavy. Doing the light rig is awesome but i want to be able to live out of this thing eventually on long trips.

I'm really trying to figure out the headache of all the other issues you get from lifting over 1-2".
 

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