I'd put the heat wrench on it, then maybe with a vise grip
Builds Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild Now Part II! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Wompom
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- #42
Gonna try heating it and maybe one of the bite into the bolt head type extractors. The clearance is so tight i can barely get vice grips on it. I tried em for a bit but it just made it worse. It is pretty much round at this point (whoops).
Or grind a slot and try a pry bar, though I suspect once you warm that puppy up it'll move easier than you think (hopefully)
I've found the reverse spiral fluted bolt grip sockets work really well. They work best if there's still a bit of the hex left, but also work on badly rounded off heads. They work great in an impact driver if you can in there
Peter! Great thread! Good luck getting her back together.
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- #47
Got the bolt off and the other motor up on a 1000lb stand. Did end up using one of those sockets and a breaker bar. Took longer to get the bolt to un-bite the bolt head than it did to extract it.
The stand is getting a serious workout holding up the 1fz. A good couple degrees of flex.
Got the power steering high pressure line off with an impact (thank god) and holding the hard line. Not sure how im going to get it back on. Thats future mes problem.
Started pulling sway bar and got stuck on the Pass side axle mount. Rust. The only real rust on the truck is the pass side front axle. Mostly just surface but some flaking and the sway bolt looks almost welded. Cant get an impact on it without pulling the hub/shock/spring. Not sure my move on this one.
Getting excited to keep moving forward and hopefully rebuild my first Toyota motor through and through. Startingg to compile a list of parts i've stripped or trashed to order from @beno .
Thanks Aaron! Can't wait to get it on the road and hopefully get in on some of those wheeling/adventures you guys have been doing!
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- #48
Well finally had time to tear into the donor motor a little bit. Found some disconcerting stuff. First: Creamy goo in the rad hose (and dead bugs)
Tons of carbon in the intake manifold.
Second, I found inside the head coolant passages a lot of green buildup from I'm guessing mixed coolant?
Managed to get all the exhaust manifolds off with no broken studs. About 50/50 on whether the stud or nut came off.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Exhaust valves are super caked in carbon.
BUT this thing was crazy clean inside compared to the one in my truck that only had 84k on it when it blew. This motor has an unknown amount of miles on it. Wondering if im being paranoid ripping into it or if i should just put it in and drive it.
The fsm confused me on how to line up timing marks to remove cam shafts. Does this look right?
Its now rain season in Seattle, and i am working in a non heater or insulated garage. The cold doesn't bother me but im worried about moisture if i crack this thing fully open. Paranoid that the moisture will start rusting the internals if i dont get it all done in a quick time frame once i open it up. OR if i even need to open it up.
Its now rain season in Seattle, and i am working in a non heater or insulated garage. The cold doesn't bother me but im worried about moisture if i crack this thing fully open. Paranoid that the moisture will start rusting the internals if i dont get it all done in a quick time frame once i open it up. OR if i even need to open it up.
Timing marks are on the other side of the cam gears, should make sense once you check there.
Up to you on what you do or don't do with the new engine/head. Unless you know it's low miles or has a fresh headgasket though I'd strongly consider replacing the HG and all that is included there.
My engine sat with the head off for about 8 months or so, including winter without ill effect. I sprayed it periodically with engine fogger which is typically used for storage oil for outboards or similar. I sprayed all over the pistons/cylinders, block surface, timing chain, etc. I also packed some openings with paper towels that soaked up the oil and covered the block with a piece of cardboard that was also pretty oily. In any case, if you keep it oiled up one way or another it should be ok. Some condensation will probably form as the block stays cool and warm/moist air travels over it. A vapor barrier (tarp, garbage bag, etc.) draped over the engine would go a long way to stop that though. In short, take precautions and you should be fine leaving the engine headless for a while as you get to the headwork/etc.
Up to you on what you do or don't do with the new engine/head. Unless you know it's low miles or has a fresh headgasket though I'd strongly consider replacing the HG and all that is included there.
My engine sat with the head off for about 8 months or so, including winter without ill effect. I sprayed it periodically with engine fogger which is typically used for storage oil for outboards or similar. I sprayed all over the pistons/cylinders, block surface, timing chain, etc. I also packed some openings with paper towels that soaked up the oil and covered the block with a piece of cardboard that was also pretty oily. In any case, if you keep it oiled up one way or another it should be ok. Some condensation will probably form as the block stays cool and warm/moist air travels over it. A vapor barrier (tarp, garbage bag, etc.) draped over the engine would go a long way to stop that though. In short, take precautions and you should be fine leaving the engine headless for a while as you get to the headwork/etc.
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- #52
Donor motor is open. Looking for some advice. The head was super clean inside, and the cylinders look good. little bit of color but the hatching is still there. Wondering how deep to dive it. I know while its on the stand it will always be easier, but justifying getting the block bored and new rings, bearings, etc. adds a pretty penny.
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- #54
Photos make the what looks like rust way more severe than in person. Slight yellowing of the cylinders. This thing sat outside for a while before i got it. The cross hatching looks great from what i can tell. Looking for advice on how deep to dive into it. Cyl 6 waterjacket looked like it wasn't doing great so glad im doing at least a head gasket.
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- #56
In the fashion of painfully slow, its finally getting a bit more done. Ordered every part to rebuild the motor from Beno last friday. Time to get this thing done.
Spent 4 hours scraping, scraping and more scraping.
went from this:
To this:
The coolant passages were full of greenish build up with the consistency of cream cheese. Making me wonder if its worth it to take it all the way apart and dip it?
The top of the block was smooth for the most part. By cyl 6 though there was this head bolt hole that was indented from the gasket. Wondering if itll have any ill effects if i dont shave the block?
Spent 4 hours scraping, scraping and more scraping.
went from this:
To this:
The coolant passages were full of greenish build up with the consistency of cream cheese. Making me wonder if its worth it to take it all the way apart and dip it?
The top of the block was smooth for the most part. By cyl 6 though there was this head bolt hole that was indented from the gasket. Wondering if itll have any ill effects if i dont shave the block?
- Thread starter
- #57
This shows the other pitting near the bolt hole @cyl 6. enough to catch a nail in but not very deep. Shouldn't the gasket be able to make up for this?
Was able to scrape off/scrub with a brass brush on cyls 1/6. Is it normal for the center of these pistons to have the texture like this of almost an orange peel?
It also had two small nicks in it. Very small voids. Any thing to be concerned with?
Lastly, anyone know of a good way to clean the coolant passages? they're green/red gunked up with stuff. was thinking of pushing water through it with the block upside down on the stand. Worried about getting water in the open cylinders though.
Thoughts?
Going to take the head to a machine shop and get it planed if needed, tested, new valve stem seals installed and possibly the valves ground down. Excited to be making progress.
Was able to scrape off/scrub with a brass brush on cyls 1/6. Is it normal for the center of these pistons to have the texture like this of almost an orange peel?
It also had two small nicks in it. Very small voids. Any thing to be concerned with?
Lastly, anyone know of a good way to clean the coolant passages? they're green/red gunked up with stuff. was thinking of pushing water through it with the block upside down on the stand. Worried about getting water in the open cylinders though.
Thoughts?
Going to take the head to a machine shop and get it planed if needed, tested, new valve stem seals installed and possibly the valves ground down. Excited to be making progress.
- Thread starter
- #58
With the original drivetrain now out I'm trying to figure out what to expect when I separate the trans with the torque converter still attached. I can only get to 4 bolts cause of whatever is blocking the engine from rotating around fully. Will they separate fine and ill just have ATF go everywhere?
What is an "acceptable" level of pitting on the block? I've got a little bit here and there but nothing crazy (Photos above). Trying to figure out if the HG will seal it or if im in bigger trouble than i thought.
What is an "acceptable" level of pitting on the block? I've got a little bit here and there but nothing crazy (Photos above). Trying to figure out if the HG will seal it or if im in bigger trouble than i thought.
- Thread starter
- #59
Bump. Anyone? Bueler?
I think very light pitting is OK as long as its clean so old residue wont keep the new HG from sealing properly. This is what I was left with:
Left side is before cleaning, right side is after. I used a green pad attachment similar to the green rough side of a dish washing sponge, that fit into my drill gun. Someone will probably tell me how I did it the wrong way and now Ill be left on the side of the road but she's run great for 10K miles now with no leaks. I didnt have it dipped as the short block only had 40k miles since last rebuild according to the Toy dealership I bought it from. I cleaned out the ports as well as I could with wire brushes, air, rags, solvent/oils, drill bits(hand turn).
