Builds Wompom's Painfully Slow Rebuild Now Part II! (1 Viewer)

[slow95z]

I know i could plop a used motor in it, but with only 84k on the truck i dont want to put a 200k motor in it.

a 200K running engine is better than a locked up 84K one

a rebuild isnt cheap which is why most go used. if you can get away with just new seals, rings and bearings expect 2 grand minimum with the head work. to go the full monty you are pushing 10K, thats with you doing the labor.

this is why the LS swap is getting to be so popular. can do it yourself easy for 10K (obviously takes longer) and get about 3~5 more MPG and 100+ more HP. oh, and the parts are easier to find and always in stock. i love my 1FZ but the whole dapper dan thing is getting old. its 2 weeks to get anything for it around here lol.

 

[Wompom]

a 200K running engine is better than a locked up 84K one

a rebuild isnt cheap which is why most go used. if you can get away with just new seals, rings and bearings expect 2 grand minimum with the head work. to go the full monty you are pushing 10K, thats with you doing the labor.

this is why the LS swap is getting to be so popular. can do it yourself easy for 10K (obviously takes longer) and get about 3~5 more MPG and 100+ more HP. oh, and the parts are easier to find and always in stock. i love my 1FZ but the whole dapper dan thing is getting old. its 2 weeks to get anything for it around here lol.

I know that is a very true statement. I definitely wouldnt spend 10k to keep a 1fz, unless @scottryana figures out that bolt on turbo kit that has been popping up.
I intend on never getting rid of this truck so an investment over time isnt out of the picture. Just cant drop 15k right off the bat to LS swap it.

 

[Wompom]

So I soaked the pistons in marvel mystery oil for about a week and a half.
Tonight I went and tried to move the crank pulley with a breaker bar and it MOVED!
it wouldn't move clockwise (passenger to driver over the top rotation), but I tried counter clockwise and it moved. Now I was able to turn it exactly 3/4 rotation before it wouldn't budge anymore... So I cranked it the other way and yep, stopped again. I'm guessing something in the bottom end went? Bent rod?
Anyone have some input? Sparks are out so it's not me being too weak to push through compression I don't think. Looking for any hail Marys before it turns into a full rebuild or motor swap.

 

[Qball]

Try open the oil pan and watch from below?

 

[artech]

Sounds like a valve stuck open- hits the top of the piston and stops it. Could just be rusted from sitting? Looking at your borescope pics it might be on the #4 cylinder- looks like a valve print on the left side. Worth checking out before you do a massive teardown anyway, just pull the valve cover and take a look. You might be able to free it up without pulling the whole thing apart.

 

[Wompom]

Try open the oil pan and watch from below?

That's the plan after I pull the valve cover. I have this bad feeling it is bottom end. Do I need to pull the full pan or can i get away with just the lower?

Sounds like a valve stuck open- hits the top of the piston and stops it. Could just be rusted from sitting? Looking at your borescope pics it might be on the #4 cylinder- looks like a valve print on the left side. Worth checking out before you do a massive teardown anyway, just pull the valve cover and take a look. You might be able to free it up without pulling the whole thing apart.

Hmm interesting. I thought the 1fz-fe was non interference?

 

[artech]

Might not be non interference if the valve spring was broken tho...

Or maybe something is down in the block blocking one of the crank weights. Either way, pulling covers makes more sense than disassembly in the short run.

 

[Wompom]

So today I had a few hours to pull the valve cover, belts, and throttle body.
I couldnt find anything visually wonky under the valve cover. Its a little grimey, but not horrible.
Then i was underneath and out of curiosity turned the crank to where it hits and a chunk of cast iron popped down and hit me in the head.
Now I was expecting to find a big hole in the side of the block, but nothing that i can see. The oil is still full, and a little bit of coolant came out when i pulled the throttle body. Im not sure where it came from. Guessing im going to need to pull the motor.

Underside of valve cover

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

Insides

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

Timing chain

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

valves

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

valves

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

valves

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

valves

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

Mystery Metal

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

Mystery Metal 2

• Wompom
• Jul 21, 2017

Now im really lost.

 

[artech]

Well, you could close it back up and see if it runs. Not much to lose, really. Without that debris in the motor it turns freely? Can't tell what that is a chunk of, but if you can get it to limping at least you can get it to wherever you need it to be for a real repair!

 

[Wompom]

Well, you could close it back up and see if it runs. Not much to lose, really. Without that debris in the motor it turns freely? Can't tell what that is a chunk of, but if you can get it to limping at least you can get it to wherever you need it to be for a real repair!

Nope still doesn't turn. I'm betting on something in the crank case, bent rod or something along those lines. Gonna buy a picker and pull it.
Appreciate all the input!

 

[PolarRunner]

I was going to say you might have a rust ring in the cylinder wall(s) since it moved after using the mystery oil and that's why it stopped before a full rotation. However, based on the short time sitting and lack of water/coolant in the cylinders I'm guessing you're more likely to find an issue in the bottom end as you suspect. Good luck!

 

[artech]

Still trying to figure out what that piece is- looks like a chunk of block, maybe? Threw a rod and the stub tore off that chunk? Looks like maybe it was part of a water passage on one side?

Guess it doesn't really matter, that motor is most likely toast. Sorry it didn't work out better for you. Keep an eye out on the classifieds here and you can probably find a good used motor pretty reasonably.

 

[Wompom]

Still trying to figure out what that piece is- looks like a chunk of block, maybe? Threw a rod and the stub tore off that chunk? Looks like maybe it was part of a water passage on one side?

Guess it doesn't really matter, that motor is most likely toast. Sorry it didn't work out better for you. Keep an eye out on the classifieds here and you can probably find a good used motor pretty reasonably.

Looks like thanks to @shocktower I'll be able to just swap in a used long block and then tear into the old one and find what it was.

 

[ToyotaDon]

There's no doubt in my mind that's a piece of your engine block. I've seen it before on engines that were either oil-starved or hydro-locked.

 

[Wompom]

There's no doubt in my mind that's a piece of your engine block. I've seen it before on engines that were either oil-starved or hydro-locked.

I wouldn't be surprised, especially since the PO said that it was run with zero oil pressure for a few miles. I can't see where it came from, but i have a feeling once i pull it there will be a hole in the side of the block!

 

[Wompom]

So i'm thinking ill try to pull the motor this weekend. I was hoping to pull motor only. If i cant fully turn the motor is this possible? I see most people say pull the whole thing, but i have limited space and dont think the room to pull the whole length of engine/tranny/tc.

 

[Wompom]

So I decided I will pull the whole drivetrain. It will give me a look at everything and see if there are other seals, etc. on the tranny/tc that need to be done.
The "new" motor to me should be getting dropped at Fastenal to get shipped up here any day now. It has an unknown amount of miles on it but came out of a truck with high 200k miles or so I believe on it. The seller and @shocktower both said it ran really strong with no leaks before it came out, and looked like a rebuilt/new motor not original to the truck. I am going to call @beno this evening to see what he thinks as far as PM before it goes in but am debating a new HG just to do it before it goes in, but at the same time, why fix whats not broken. Im going to look for leaks/seals etc that need to be replaced before it goes in.
What are peoples thoughts on this? I know the general hive consensus is do more PM than necessary but I also believe that HGs from the factory tend to hold a lot longer than redone ones. Maybe thats just a subie thing though, idk.
Planning on PHH, valve cover seal, and a few other odds and ends.
If you take the time to read this wall of please let me know your thoughts! Going to be interesting pulling this drivetrain for the first time!

 

[Red Merle]

Why do you think a redone HG is more prone to fail than the original? The only ones I have read about failing again seemed to be installed in a hurry or without having the head surfaced.

 

[Wompom]

Why do you think a redone HG is more prone to fail than the original? The only ones I have read about failing again seemed to be installed in a hurry or without having the head surfaced.

Maybe just superstition. I saw it a lot in the built subaru groups where factory sealed motors outlasted rebuilt/surfaced heads with new gaskets significantly. If done properly it shouldn't be an issue i'm sure. I don't like opening a motor unless it needs to be, but I know the consensus around here is if its out, just do it. I'm debating which way to go still.

 

[Wompom]

Well the "new" $400 1fz is here. She's dirty. Unknown miles. Going to tear into it and probably do the head gasket for the sake of doing it while its out.
Was removing the flywheel to get it on an engine stand and one of the bolts, only one, completely rounded off. seem like super soft bolts...
Any one have suggestions to get it out?

new 1fz

• Wompom
• Sep 23, 2017

new 1fz

• Wompom
• Sep 23, 2017

a little dirty

• Wompom
• Sep 23, 2017

flywheel

• Wompom
• Sep 23, 2017

stripped bolt close up

• Wompom
• Sep 23, 2017