Wiring up charging ports (1 Viewer)

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Bedford, Va
I’m planning on wiring up some usb charging ports in the rear of my LC. I already have a fuse panel wired to my aux battery in the engine bay. What gauge wire do you guys recommend? Also, where is everyone installing these ports? Thanks
 
I removed the rear driver-side ashtray and put a BlueSea 12v socket in it's place. It's specifically for my fridge but it's always hot, running off my aux. fuse box and 2nd battery. I used 8 guage...

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I followed this thread to install on the back of the center console and used the 'fast charge' usb chargers from Blue Sea. A tight fit, but removed the rear audio controls and replaced with the OEM plate (color matched, even) then used flag terminals to connect to power.
 
My rear passenger sockets draw up to 4.2A so I run 18 AWG about 6 feet to my rear aux fuse block. Anything bigger is a waste of money for under 5A.
 
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If you are running cig sockets with the intention of using USB adapters remember that someone might plug in some higher amp draw accessory at some point... requiring you to run a heavier wire (and appropriate fuse)
 
IIRC, USB powered things aren't supposed to use more than like 1.5A, so a relatively short run would only need AWG18-20 BUT as @woytovich mentions (this is wisdom) you/others will soon forget this modest load capacity and plug in the camp coffee pot or inflatable bed blower or whatever and fail the smoke test, so you might stick with whatever the OEM wire gauge is (probably AWG14 stranded)
 
IIRC, USB powered things aren't supposed to use more than like 1.5A, so a relatively short run would only need AWG18-20 BUT as @woytovich mentions (this is wisdom) you/others will soon forget this modest load capacity and plug in the camp coffee pot or inflatable bed blower or whatever and fail the smoke test, so you might stick with whatever the OEM wire gauge is (probably AWG14 stranded)

That's what a fuse is for. IMO it's not wise to overbuild where it's not needed.

If a rear passenger happens to know that the USB receptacle (on many of these sockets) can be removed and there is a cig socket behind it, and decides to plug in a cigarette adapter in there for a device that happens to draws too much, the fuse pops and you tell them not to do it again. End of story.

I highly doubt one of my kids will even know there's a cig socket back there. I know they don't own any cig adapters. I also highly doubt they'll plug in a blender or a coffee pot ever. But YMMV and everyone's situation is different. By all means overbuild if you think it's wise or if it eases your mind.
 
I overwire everything, especially with runs over just a few feet. With fancy BlueSea fuse panels and plugs, second battery systems, fridges, audio system, HAM radios, etc., the extra cost of larger wire is negligible. Big wires and the correct fuses for the anticipated load is a good combo.
 
If you install a cig socket why would you not wire it for the full load the cig socket can handle? If you KNOW you'll only ever want USB charging then install USB sockets (not a cig socket with an adapter in it) and wire/fuse for that max load.

My feeling is that if I have the cig socket I have that extra option if/when... isn't that why we run Land Cruisers? We don't always use their full capability but it is there for us if/when we need it... otherwise we'd drive Jeeps and just deal with getting stuck: "Don't do that again." :D
 
If you install a cig socket why would you not wire it for the full load the cig socket can handle? If you KNOW you'll only ever want USB charging then install USB sockets (not a cig socket with an adapter in it) and wire/fuse for that max load.

My feeling is that if I have the cig socket I have that extra option if/when... isn't that why we run Land Cruisers? We don't always use their full capability but it is there for us if/when we need it... otherwise we'd drive Jeeps and just deal with getting stuck: "Don't do that again." :D

When I bought the USB socket I thought it was a USB socket. I found out after the fact that it was simply a cig socket with a flush mount usb adapter inserted in it. Since the OP is installing USB ONLY socket, then I suggested 18 AWG.

I don't know what you are plugging in, but for anything that requires 14 AWG I would run direct to one of my two AUX fuse panels anyway. If you feel you need to run high draw appliances off a cigarette plug, there are already three OEM ones in the truck. You really need more? o_O
 
I don't know what you are plugging in, but for anything that requires 14 AWG I would run direct to one of my two AUX fuse panels anyway. If you feel you need to run high draw appliances off a cigarette plug, there are already three OEM ones in the truck. You really need more? o_O

Well, there are three cig lighter plugs, but if you want to run a fridge etc, there are no "always on" sockets...
 
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Well, there are three cig lighter plugs, but if you want to run a fridge etc, there are no "always in" sockets...

Always "on"? There's a popular mod that's stickied somewhere on here that keeps my cig lighter sockets always on.
 
Always "on"? There's a popular mod that's stickied somewhere on here that keeps my cig lighter sockets always on.
Right, "on." That mod isn't really available for the newer ('03+, I think) Cruisers as I believe they changed the location of the fuse panel that is used to be significantly less accessible.
 

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