Wiring Single wire alternator w/o voltage reg

[tyama]

My 79' pig voltage regulator finally died the other day and I decided to swap in a 100 amp alternator with a single wire & internal VR. I read I need to directly hook up the lug on the alt with a 4gage wire to the battery + post.

Is this all I need or do I need to splice some of the stock wiring so the dash meter etc will still operate?

Thanks for any insight! ty

 

[Coolerman]

If you want your stock amp meter to work, you must connect the alternator to the stock wiring. Just be aware; if you should actually pull more than 50 amps through the amp meter via the fuse block, you will fry the meter. Try to connect any accessories that pull a lot of current directly to the battery through a fuse so the current does not pass through the meter.

 

[tyama]

hiya,

Would you have any ideas on how I would do the wiring to accomplish hooking it back up to the wiring harness? i.e., which wires to what, etc... I know I will bypass the VR, but wasn't quite sure on how to do it. I thought I would put a 20amp in line fuse before hooking it up to the stock harness to prevent an overload. Thanks for your assistance!! ty

 

[tyama]

Correct set Up?

Okay, here's what i've found in search:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/35369-alternator-question.html

The Tech article states to use the old white/blue stripe to the GM Alt. I plan to run a 4 gage wire with a fused link to the battery + side.

the #2 slot on the alt will be jumped to the battery lug on the alt

the #1 wire seems to have some options: (from the original tech article...)

5. Now comes the tricky part, as you have options. The 'black with yellow stripe' wire at the Toyota regulator connector is an ignition key controlled 'hot' wire coming from the engine fuse in the fuse box. This hot wire must be connected to the GM alternator #1 terminal. The options involve how you want to do this:
a. Run a wire from the 'black with yellow stripe' wire to the #1 terminal.
b. Run a wire from the engine fuse to the #1 terminal.
c. Connect the 'black with yellow stripe' wire to the now unused 'white with green stripe' wire at the regulator connector and then connect the 'white with green stripe' wire at the alternator to the #1 terminal.

Which of the above is preferable? I thought I'd do "a" and put in a light to prevent "backflow"

Questions: Where would be a good spot for a ampmeter? Will this setup prevent frying of the stock setup if the alt puts out lots of amps in a battery drain or winching?

Thanks for any feedback, ty

 

[DomsFJ40]

My 79' pig voltage regulator finally died the other day and I decided to swap in a 100 amp alternator with a single wire & internal VR. I read I need to directly hook up the lug on the alt with a 4gage wire to the battery + post.

Is this all I need or do I need to splice some of the stock wiring so the dash meter etc will still operate?

Thanks for any insight! ty

OneWireAlternator
Awsome link to a AC/delco mod for one-wire set up. Also
shows how to "Leak" the voltage reg. Shows willy's, jeeps, ford, almost any set-up.

 

[lone gunman]

i did C. years ago, no problems so far.

 

[tyama]

Thanks for the links and the feedback. I don't see a black with yellow stripe but do see a black with white stripe in the alternator harness. Are they the same?

I think I'll put the ampmeter on the big wire and still run the black/white to the #1 terminal.

How's that sound?

Thanks, ty

 

[tyama]

Auto bus bar

Hiya,

When i went over to Napa this afternoon and asked for a 8 gage fusible link for my alt to battery connection, I was handed a 100 amp bus bar. Anyone put one of these in line with the Alt & battery?

Thanks for any info, ty

 

[tyama]

any ideas? I be hearing crickets chirpin'
ty