Wiring in new driver's chair, need help (1 Viewer)

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SLCFJ62,
I understand your schematic and I tried wiring it up this evening to no avail. I can't get the two 4 PIN relays set up correctly. The 4 PIN relays are in the "open" position until activated. Your schematic shows the 4 PIN relays grounded when "closed" which is what I need but cannot achieve. How do I set up the 4 PIN relays to start off grounded (or in the "closed" position?)

Hmmm...There should be 5 pins. Two for the coil, one COMMON, and a normally open (NO) and a normally closed (NC). If your relays only have 4 pins, then you must not have a NC connection. Those relays would be good for turning on a light, but not for what you are trying to do with the seat motor. Need a NO and a NC connection. The COMMON pin connects to the motor UP or DOWN, the NC connection goes to ground, and the NO connection goes to the Antenna switch which switches in 12V . Let me edit the diagram and repost. Sorry about that.
 
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Here is an updated schematic showing the connection of the COMMON, NO and NC pins of the relay. The other two pins are for the relay coil and don't have any polarity. The first picture is the schematic for the relay I used for the power door locks and windows mod. See this post for more info about the relays:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/261058-power-windows-door-locks-permanent-fix.html

These relays are called a "single pole, double throw" relay.
IMG_1255.JPG
schematic.jpg
 
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I have 4 PIN and 5 PIN relays. I will try wiring up the schematic shown above. Thanks.
 
It works! The seat finally works. I needed that extra ground wire with the 5 PIN relay setup. Thanks a lot!
 
U R welcome. Glad to help. Oh, and you can use the 4 pin relays for the heated seats.

I will try my best to wire the seat heaters without help. Going over your 5 PIN relay diagram has helped me understand why people use 5 PIN relays instead of 4 PIN relays. Nothing is better than experience when it comes to wiring.
 
I got two 88 FJ62 rear heater switches to use to control my heated seats. The heaters have fused 3 amp power. Can I use the stock switches without relays since the amperage is so low? Can the stock switches handle a 3 amp load? I know it is not the ideal setup and I should be using relays but as usual time constraints before this weekend’s trip make me double guess using jury rigged setup.

Good news is that I finally got my CB tuned with the SWR meter correctly and I get a reading of 1.5.
 
If the 3 amp fuses are associated with the seat heaters, then the actual current should be quite a bit less than that, so you could probably get away with just wiring in the switches without relays. Those switches should handle an amp or two OK. I'm sure the heater motor draws more than that. Funny, I'd a thought that the seat heaters would have more draw than that. But I guess you just want to warm your buns, not toast them!
 
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Is there a way to figure out if the switches can handle 3 amps based on the wiring size? I assume the actual switch itself inside the casing is what will fail first.

Any more detailed information regarding the max load would be appreciated.

SLCFJ62, what do you mean by "motor?" The heated seats are just heating elements (i.e. resitance in wires creating heat.)
 
The switches were originally designed to switch on the rear heater blower motor in the Cruiser. You could connect your amp meter in series with the rear heater blower motor and see just how much current it draws, but I am sure it is more than an amp or two. So, my meaning is that if they are designed to switch the current for the rear heater blower motor you should be fine switching just an amp or two for the seat heater elements.
 
Good point. I am going to try wiring them directly. Worse situation I blow a switch and I'm out less than $20. Can't cause a fire because the 3 amp fuse will blow first.
 

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