Wiring Harrop front eLocker (1 Viewer)

[ClassyJalopy]

I am in the process of wiring up the front locker and need some help. There are two pins coming out of the diff (see first pic taken from gearinstalls.com), but there are no markings on the wires at all.

Paging @orangefj45 , @gearinstalls.com and @OwnerCS

Question 1: does the polarity matter at all? If yes then what's the best way to determine it?
Question 2: what's the best way to check if the front locker is actually working? I raised the front of the truck and tried spinning the wheels, the spin in opposite directions - indicating an open diff. I tried applying 12v to the two leads and didn't hear anything and the wheel still spun in opposite directions. Reversed the polarity on the leads and still the same result

 

[OwnerCS]

I am in the process of wiring up the front locker and need some help. There are two pins coming out of the diff (see first pic taken from gearinstalls.com), but there are no markings on the wires at all.

Paging @orangefj45 , @gearinstalls.com and @OwnerCS

Question 1: does the polarity matter at all? If yes then what's the best way to determine it?
Question 2: what's the best way to check if the front locker is actually working? I raised the front of the truck and tried spinning the wheels, the spin in opposite directions - indicating an open diff. I tried applying 12v to the two leads and didn't hear anything and the wheel still spun in opposite directions. Reversed the polarity on the leads and still the same result

View attachment 2471954

Polarity doesn't matter. I didn't try lifting it up. I just put it together and turned on the switch that was included when on soft ground. You'll know when it's on for sure.

Be sure to hook up the plug to the leads to the plug and have the cable in position before mounting the 3rd member.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Polarity doesn't matter. I didn't try lifting it up. I just put it together and turned on the switch that was included when on soft ground. You'll know when it's on for sure.

Be sure to hook up the plug to the leads to the plug and have the cable in position before mounting the 3rd member.

Super fast and super helpful reply - THANK YOU!
Guess what the third is already mounted and I am having a bitch of a time plugging in the wires

 

[OwnerCS]

Super fast and super helpful reply - THANK YOU!
Guess what the third is already mounted and I am having a bitch of a time plugging in the wires

I happened to me too.. I had to partially drop the 3rd to hook up the wires. Be sure to hook up the breather line at the same time.

It got better after I installed the drop diff a few weeks later.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I do have a diff drop in place and the tiniest amount of space to try and finagle with it.

 

[MongooseGA]

Exciting! She'll be a beast!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

So I have bravely decided to walk away from wiring the front up!

After contorting my arms around the big pumpkin (front diff), I got the pins seated in the female plug, I tugged at the wires gently and they didn't come out, I plugged in the male plug (harness side), heard them click together and got excited!!
And then tugged on the wires again and they came right out .

I now have zero confidence in this plug design! I am thinking about snipping off the pins and soldering on some fresh wire and then use better quality waterproof plugs. But I realize I am in a hurry right now and that is when I make rash decisions - so I have decided this can wait until after our trip.

 

[Patassa]

I fought these damn plugs on front and rear of my LC 2weeks ago, they suck. I cut them off and used those nifty heat shrink splice tubes with the solder inside them. The plugs aren't worth the headache, even when I thought I had them all the way in, they didnt make a connection and I thought there was something wrong with my install bc the lockers wouldn't engage.

If you dont' have time to wait, any splicers will do fine temporarily, just give them a really good wrapping in electrical tape and make sure they are out of the way and won't get caught on anything while you're wheeling.

 

[Patassa]

The best way I found to check is jack up the rear till both tires are off the ground, jack up 1 side in the front till off the ground, jack up the other side of the front until it's still just barely touching the ground. Rotate the front tire that's off the ground, it should spin freely and the one barely touching won't move. Next, activate your locker, turn the one that's off the ground again, you should get about half a turn, then you'll feel it engage the other wheel and you'll start turning the wheel that was barely touching the ground also, albeit with some resistance from the friction from "barely touching" the ground. boom, locked diffs, all is good and right in the world.

 

[OwnerCS]

So I have bravely decided to walk away from wiring the front up!

After contorting my arms around the big pumpkin (front diff), I got the pins seated in the female plug, I tugged at the wires gently and they didn't come out, I plugged in the male plug (harness side), heard them click together and got excited!!
And then tugged on the wires again and they came right out .

I now have zero confidence in this plug design! I am thinking about snipping off the pins and soldering on some fresh wire and then use better quality waterproof plugs. But I realize I am in a hurry right now and that is when I make rash decisions - so I have decided this can wait until after our trip.

View attachment 2472174

Well now I'm paranoid.. I need to go check on it. I do like the waterproof Toyota style connectors from Owl Expedition that I recently purchased.

Toyota Style Waterproof Connectors (Fits LX470 Factory Courtesy Light Plugs)

These Toyota Style Waterproof Connectors are excellent for adding aftermarket accessories to your vehicle while retaining the factory look and function. These are also the same connectors used on the LX470 for courtesy lights. These connectors come as a disassembled male and female set, can be...

owlexpedition.com

 

[ClassyJalopy]

The best way I found to check is jack up the rear till both tires are off the ground, jack up 1 side in the front till off the ground, jack up the other side of the front until it's still just barely touching the ground. Rotate the front tire that's off the ground, it should spin freely and the one barely touching won't move. Next, activate your locker, turn the one that's off the ground again, you should get about half a turn, then you'll feel it engage the other wheel and you'll start turning the wheel that was barely touching the ground also, albeit with some resistance from the friction from "barely touching" the ground. boom, locked diffs, all is good and right in the world.

Ken from @gearinstalls.com responded to my email - dude keeps surprising me with his quick and thorough communications - I definitely recommend him for all the diff/gears work:
"
No polarity on the 2 wires........just hook them up...they don't care which is + and ground.

To verify locker operation....engage the 12 volts....turn driveshaft 1/4 turn while turning 1 tire slowly......Bang and it is locked for sure...
"

 

[MongooseGA]

Are you planning to have this done before your trip next week?

 

[Patassa]

Ken from @gearinstalls.com responded to my email - dude keep surprising me with his quick and thorough communications - I definitely recommend him for all the diff/gears work:
"
No polarity on the 2 wires........just hook them up...they don't care which is + and ground.

To verify locker operation....engage the 12 volts....turn driveshaft 1/4 turn while turning 1 tire slowly......Bang and it is locked for sure...
"

Yeah I tried to test it by sound too but mine was so quiet I couldn't tell, the way I described there is no question when the other tire starts scratching on the surface.

 

[OwnerCS]

Mine is tucked far away up over the 3rd member.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Are you planning to have this done before your trip next week?

I want to. The wiring doesn't look too bad to do, but I gotta figure out this plug situ

 

[MongooseGA]

The solder-in-place shrink wrap isn't bad, but I found it to be kind of tedious. I like using these waterproof push/clip style connectors. Easy to clip together and they're very snug. They've been on my ARB since install for all of the lighting.

 

[Patassa]

Make sure you take the break in period and diff fluid change seriously, the recommended interval is 500 miles, I wasn't able to do that but did change it around 1k miles. This was what my drain plug looked like.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Make sure you take the break in period and diff fluid change seriously, the recommended interval is 500 miles, I wasn't able to do that but did change it around 1k miles. This was what my drain plug looked like.

View attachment 2472995
View attachment 2472996
View attachment 2472997

Did you get new gears?

 

[Patassa]

Did you get new gears?

Nope, just locker and maybe bearings. I'm planning to flush really good, refill, check again in 500 miles. Hopefully wont' see the same thing again.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I drained the front diff - its been about 800 miles since the locker was installed. I did find a small amount of deposit on the magnet, it was consistency of pancake batter and was nowhere near as much quantity as in your pic. Definitely no shards or chunks.

We are leaving for a ~2000 mile trip, will probably try another drain afterwards.
Still didn't wire up the locker, just ran out of time!