Wiring harness terminal connector fun (1 Viewer)

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Feb 26, 2015
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Was pulling my wiring harness to remove the cylinder head, and seem to have caused a couple new issues.

1st is with the fuel injector wiring, I broke a few of them taking the injectors out, I see there's a repair harness, but I'm wondering if someone could share with me the proper way to remove the terminals from the connectors, as I would much prefer to jreplace the connector rather than splice in wires.

I also notice the connectors are different colors, I have both gray (connector stamped 11153 E7) and brown (11153 E12), they seem to be the exact same connector, just different colors ( maybe to help keep them from being crossed?). Can anybody confirm this?

My second issue is with a connector that got snagged on something, the number stamped onto it is 11166. It is a grey connector with a single terminal.

My local Toyota parts person is clueless and unmotivated to help, so if someone could help me out with telling me what this might go to, and where I might find a repair connector, Id appreciate it. This one is going to have to be spliced in as the wire broke just behind the insulator plug on the connector. I believe it goes onto a sensor or something on the lower engine block??? ...hard to tell with everything torn down right now.

pics below.
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saucebox

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You need a prison shiv—something like Prison Shank- Connector Pin Tool - https://absolute-wits-end.com/prison-shank-connector-pin-tool/ or JS Steelman 95944 5-Pc Asian Import Terminal Tool Kit JSP95944 ST95944 - https://www.toolsource.com/terminal-tools-c-1321_408_520/asian-import-terminal-tool-kit-5pc-p-105861.html. Connectors always have a little catch for the terminals, so you need something thin to jam in there to push the catch down and remove the wire. It takes some practice.

Ballenger Motorsports has been really good at helping me find the proper terminals for repairs like this.

Lastly your connectors should have a 5-digit stamp on them. That always corresponds to a part number beginning with 90980-. As an example, if your connector is 11166, the Toyota part number is 90980-11166.

An EWD for your MY would help you tons.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Messages
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Location
Coweta, OK
You need a prison shiv—something like Prison Shank- Connector Pin Tool - https://absolute-wits-end.com/prison-shank-connector-pin-tool/ or JS Steelman 95944 5-Pc Asian Import Terminal Tool Kit JSP95944 ST95944 - https://www.toolsource.com/terminal-tools-c-1321_408_520/asian-import-terminal-tool-kit-5pc-p-105861.html. Connectors always have a little catch for the terminals, so you need something thin to jam in there to push the catch down and remove the wire. It takes some practice.

Ballenger Motorsports has been really good at helping me find the proper terminals for repairs like this.

Lastly your connectors should have a 5-digit stamp on them. That always corresponds to a part number beginning with 90980-. As an example, if your connector is 11166, the Toyota part number is 90980-11166.

An EWD for your MY would help you tons.
so, if i got part 90980-11166, will it come with the wire terminal end to stick into it, as the wire is bare-ended now. and thanks, will look into the shank tool.
 

saucebox

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so, if i got part 90980-11166, will it come with the wire terminal end to stick into it, as the wire is bare-ended now. and thanks, will look into the shank tool.

Terminals not included. That's where Ballenger usually comes in. They'll sell the bare terminals and end caps, etc.
 

Cruiser804

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Toyota sells the housings and wiring splices separately. The splice is a piece of wire with a pin on the end. So you don't need the housing but you do need to remove the pin from the housing. As stated above they usually have a locking mechanism, sometimes two. I think for the one you have the white piece pulls out a little and then the pin will have a small piece that needs to be pressed down to to allow the pin to come out the back.

If you buy the pin (connector) I think that will be you easiest route. If you buy the Toyota splice you will have to solider the existing wire to the slice.
 
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Looks like a knock sensor connector. If so, you can use 82219-35010, cut off one side and splice it in. Or get one from the pick n pull. See Connector question - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/connector-question.1225193/#post-13361267
I think you're right, funny thing is I decided to pull the wiring harness so that I could completely remove the intake manifold, LOL, I only did that to avoid breaking the knock sensors...... and I wound up breaking a knock sensor anyway, and now I'm replacing its plug. Funny how stuff like that happens.
 

mudgudgeon

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I made a tool for disconnecting harness connectors. $10 pliers, 10 minutes with a gas torch, pliers, grinder, file. Good to go.

It grips the connector by the release tab, and the opposite side. Offset pliers grip the connector, but stays clear of harness. Allows you to pull on the connector without pulling on the harness.

Most the harness connector retaining clips work the same way

Doesn't help replace broken terminals, but helps prevent breaking them in the first place

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Joined
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I can’t help with the other parts, but @NLXTACY posted a good step by step on how to repair a damaged terminal.

I repaired my ABS pigtail in a similar fashion.

 
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brettk

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As long as you’re using new connectors...If your old injector connectors were as crispy as mine were, just take a pair of pliers and squeeze on them and they will bust apart like glass. Just be careful not to damage the terminals inside though, and also remember where your wires go.
 
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Hate to be the guy to put that PDF together. Over 400 pages. Wow......
It wasn't that bad; I'm still young. I cannot imagine why TIS ever split it up though, when it was published as a single volume initially. I guess it made sense in the context of consistency with splitting the rest of the FSM into component sections of chapters; I still don't have that put back together.
 
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Those knock sensor connectors can be sensitive. Ballinger is a good source; I've really had a lot of good experiences with corsa technic as well. Usually you can give them a Toyota pn and they'll have a housing and terminal
 
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dont feel bad. even with the tool I break a lot of stuff. luckily have a spare engine to scavenge for parts. order a pin and wire and fix it up to as good as new.
 

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