Hey all, I’m looking to completely re-wire my 72 fj40. I’ve seen a few different kits online, and the one I thought looked best was on jtoutfitters. Anyone ever used this kit? Any recommendations otherwise? Much appreciated.
Wiring harness for 72 fj40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ghost73
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That is a generic harness at about 2X the price of similar harnesses. It is not a specially designed harness for a stock FJ40. I've done lots of wiring, not on FJ40, but you are in a non computer era which is the same as other vehicles I've done. A generic harness is OK. How handy and knowledgable are you on electrics? Post the Part number/SKU for JT, so I can be sure we re talking about the same harness. Also list what non stock accessories or components you have. Stock motor? Points style distributor? Turn signals? Non computerized system? Extra electronics? Some of their verbage about the harness is a little sketchy. I do not recommend it. You should get a good 72 FJ40 wiring diagram. Glad to help you all the way. I had a 72 FJ40 several years ago. Chevy V8.
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
My first option would be go thru the original harness before going all the work of installing a generic harness. See many threads asking what color wire is used for this or that on my 19XX FJ40. If a person can't trouble shoot wiring without knowing the wire colors I can't imagine the nightmare trying to work with a generic harness spliced in the the factory plugs.
Would check with Mark @Coolerman to see if he is currently either making or repairing harnesses.
Would check with Mark @Coolerman to see if he is currently either making or repairing harnesses.
I second the idea to contact @Coolerman . He is the resident wiring expert!
- Thread starter
- #5
Much obliged! Here is a link to the harness, I hope it works. Wiring Harness for Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 – JT Outfitters To answer your questions - I am OK at best when it comes to electrical. I can do it, but it takes me a very long time and I find it quite frustrating. I put a wiring kit on a 2013 dirt bike to make it street legal with success, but I know that's a different animal. I have a friend that restores vehicles for a living who offered his assistance with this project, and if I didn't have him to help, I would probably pay someone else to do it. The engine is the original, yes the distributor is points style, it has turn signals and running lights on the sides with a manual revers light and a light over the back license plate. There is no computer and no extra electronics. There is a stereo that seems to work, but no speakers so I don't use it. Over all, it's pretty much stock. I was planning to purchase a diagram, and I also have the Haynes repair manual, but that's limited. Thanks again!
- Thread starter
- #6
I forgot to mention that I installed an electric power steering kit from EZ Electric.
- Thread starter
- #7
That’s how I started. You can find reprints of the original shop manuals at Spector.com.
Yes that is the harness I saw. The diagram is available online from Mr. Coolerman. or I guess if you have a manual it may be in there.
Anyway the harness is not all that hard to do. You will have to crimp/solder the terminals and route the wires and etc. Sounds like you have a friend to help. Here is a harness that will work . Whatever harness you choose is up to you. You do want a prewired fuse panel type. If you want to use your present connectors you have several choices, splice to them, get the contacts that go in them if they are not reusable, use other connectors like Packard 56. I do not know if original connectors are available. I am not familiar with FJ40 connectors. You may not have that many. The harness you choose will probably not have the same colors as original. That does not matter. When you remove the old harness, tie wrap it and try to keep it as a harness, label the ends. take a few pictures. If you need my help I will have more questions. Lots of folks can help you but they will have different opinions and procedures than mine. I would like to see pics of any connectors you have on your harness.
All of the harnesses use the same quality plastic coated wire. Most use the same ATO/ATC fuses.
I see some FJ connectors and their contacts listed on Ebay. This would avoid splicing. But if your connectors are good and you want to reuse them, correct splicing is OK.
Anyway the harness is not all that hard to do. You will have to crimp/solder the terminals and route the wires and etc. Sounds like you have a friend to help. Here is a harness that will work . Whatever harness you choose is up to you. You do want a prewired fuse panel type. If you want to use your present connectors you have several choices, splice to them, get the contacts that go in them if they are not reusable, use other connectors like Packard 56. I do not know if original connectors are available. I am not familiar with FJ40 connectors. You may not have that many. The harness you choose will probably not have the same colors as original. That does not matter. When you remove the old harness, tie wrap it and try to keep it as a harness, label the ends. take a few pictures. If you need my help I will have more questions. Lots of folks can help you but they will have different opinions and procedures than mine. I would like to see pics of any connectors you have on your harness.
All of the harnesses use the same quality plastic coated wire. Most use the same ATO/ATC fuses.
I see some FJ connectors and their contacts listed on Ebay. This would avoid splicing. But if your connectors are good and you want to reuse them, correct splicing is OK.
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
The headlight switch has a plug, instrument cluster have two plugs, windshield wiper switch has a plug, flasher switch as a plug, turn signal/hazards flasher with have a plug, while not fancy blower switches have plugs, emission will have plugs on a 72. Plenty of bullet connectors. The harness itself has plugs for different sections. I would not hard wire anything that was able to unplug at the factory.
The harnesses may have flashers "built in" already.
As far as I can tell, many of your components will have a male connector on them and a mating female connector on the harness. You will only be splicing the harness side of a component's connector.
It is possible, especially with bullet connectors to hard wire past. (eliminate them) Because:
1. They could be there so that subassemblies could be built on a different line or vendor.
2. If the bullets are there for replacement, splice at that time. Leave a service loop.
3. Getting rid of bullet connections, where feasible, is a good thing electrically. Especially if adding splices.
Don't know what an emissions connector is. How much electrical emission stuff is on a 72?
There are Wiring Diagrams on here and elsewhere that have been "drawn", "copied", "redrawn", "cleaned up" by someone. DO NOT use anything but a genuine factory Wiring Diagram unless the person is well known. Coolerman is well known.
As far as I can tell, many of your components will have a male connector on them and a mating female connector on the harness. You will only be splicing the harness side of a component's connector.
It is possible, especially with bullet connectors to hard wire past. (eliminate them) Because:
1. They could be there so that subassemblies could be built on a different line or vendor.
2. If the bullets are there for replacement, splice at that time. Leave a service loop.
3. Getting rid of bullet connections, where feasible, is a good thing electrically. Especially if adding splices.
Don't know what an emissions connector is. How much electrical emission stuff is on a 72?
There are Wiring Diagrams on here and elsewhere that have been "drawn", "copied", "redrawn", "cleaned up" by someone. DO NOT use anything but a genuine factory Wiring Diagram unless the person is well known. Coolerman is well known.
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Coolerman
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If you have your original 1972 harness you would be far ahead by simply repairing/refurbishing it. Unless it has been in a fire, it can easily be repaired.
FYI: If you can wire in lights on a dirt bike, you can repair your own harness.
I am currently booked solid for the next 18 months so cannot offer my services to you, but I sell everything you would need to repair your own harness. I have all the connectors, terminals and correct striped wire in all the correct gauges. I also sell non-adhesive harness tape to make it look like new once it has been repaired.
You start by removing the harness from the truck and laying it out on a 4x8 sheet of plywood that is on something high enough to be comfortable to work on.
Next you remove the outer tape from the harness. But do NOT remove the tape that holds the harness in shape. If you do have to cut that tape, use zip ties to hold the harness shape. An X-Acto razor with a new blade really helps to remove the old tape. Just slice through the tape and peel it off. Recommend you wear gloves as the tape will be a sticky mess.
Once you have the harness un-taped, make a list of everything that needs replaced or repaired. Common things are the oil pressure and water temp sensor wires are usually cracked and brittle. Connector housings may be broken, the fusible link may be bypassed or missing, that kind of thing. Once you have a shopping list go to my web site and order in what you need. (I also sell terminal crimp tools you will need to crimp on the new terminals. ) You will want to remove all the fuses from the fuse panel and throw them away. Now remove the fuse panel from the harness and soak it in vinegar for about 15 minutes, rinse really well, and dry it. Now use a Dremel tool with a wire wheel to remove all the oxidation from the fuse clips. It will look like a new one! Put it back on the harness and install all new fuses.
While waiting on parts you can clean the harness connectors. I personally use a soda blaster I bought form Harbor Freight to clean these, but a tooth brush and Simple Green will also work. If the harness wires are covered in goo from the tape, use Acetone to remove it. The acetone works wonders on cleaning the wire ends that are exposed to the elements. Note: The OEM wire stripes are actually molded into the insulation. The new wire that is available has the stripes "painted" on. Do NOT use Acetone on that wire as it will remove the stripe!
Now is the time to add any accessory wiring to the harness. It will look factory installed after taping!
Once everything has been repaired you can be use a battery to bench test the harness to make sure everything works. Last you re-tape it using non-adhesive harness tape and re-install it in the truck.
Mark aka Coolerman
FYI: If you can wire in lights on a dirt bike, you can repair your own harness.
I am currently booked solid for the next 18 months so cannot offer my services to you, but I sell everything you would need to repair your own harness. I have all the connectors, terminals and correct striped wire in all the correct gauges. I also sell non-adhesive harness tape to make it look like new once it has been repaired.
You start by removing the harness from the truck and laying it out on a 4x8 sheet of plywood that is on something high enough to be comfortable to work on.
Next you remove the outer tape from the harness. But do NOT remove the tape that holds the harness in shape. If you do have to cut that tape, use zip ties to hold the harness shape. An X-Acto razor with a new blade really helps to remove the old tape. Just slice through the tape and peel it off. Recommend you wear gloves as the tape will be a sticky mess.
Once you have the harness un-taped, make a list of everything that needs replaced or repaired. Common things are the oil pressure and water temp sensor wires are usually cracked and brittle. Connector housings may be broken, the fusible link may be bypassed or missing, that kind of thing. Once you have a shopping list go to my web site and order in what you need. (I also sell terminal crimp tools you will need to crimp on the new terminals. ) You will want to remove all the fuses from the fuse panel and throw them away. Now remove the fuse panel from the harness and soak it in vinegar for about 15 minutes, rinse really well, and dry it. Now use a Dremel tool with a wire wheel to remove all the oxidation from the fuse clips. It will look like a new one! Put it back on the harness and install all new fuses.
While waiting on parts you can clean the harness connectors. I personally use a soda blaster I bought form Harbor Freight to clean these, but a tooth brush and Simple Green will also work. If the harness wires are covered in goo from the tape, use Acetone to remove it. The acetone works wonders on cleaning the wire ends that are exposed to the elements. Note: The OEM wire stripes are actually molded into the insulation. The new wire that is available has the stripes "painted" on. Do NOT use Acetone on that wire as it will remove the stripe!
Now is the time to add any accessory wiring to the harness. It will look factory installed after taping!
Once everything has been repaired you can be use a battery to bench test the harness to make sure everything works. Last you re-tape it using non-adhesive harness tape and re-install it in the truck.
Mark aka Coolerman
Haha, got it on second read.
I second (or third) fixing what you have. I just went through the same decision on my 1982 BJ42. Generic replacement harnesses can be as much or more work than fixing what you have. To restore mine, I pulled the harness and set it up on a big table like you see on Coolerman’s website. It took hours to check every circuit and I found problems here and there. In the end, it maybe cost me $40 in materials and I have a solid, trouble-free harness that fits perfectly. I did upgrade the fuse panel to take the newer style fuses, but that was easy to do. My thoughts, for what they are worth.
One assumes when someone says they want to rewire their vehicle, there is a reason. To advise NOT to do it without asking questions is pretty silly.
We can only answer the original question and not judge.
The aim is to help them do what they want to do.
Coolerman seems to have the parts to do it either way. It seems he is saying he has the parts to "repair" your harness or to "redo" your harness completely. The condition of your harness, the desire to remain pure and your budget will decide. Original or aftermarket.
We can only answer the original question and not judge.
The aim is to help them do what they want to do.
Coolerman seems to have the parts to do it either way. It seems he is saying he has the parts to "repair" your harness or to "redo" your harness completely. The condition of your harness, the desire to remain pure and your budget will decide. Original or aftermarket.
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So, who let my ex-wife in here?
This is exactly what 99% of the cruiserheads on this forum are doing here.
There are a lot of guys who start out with an idea of what they want but haven't considered the alternatives, or have no clue that there are alternatives.
I figure if a guy asks a question on a forum like this, he is starting a conversation. If my answer isn't where he wants to take the conversation, he'll say so.
Just in case, no offense intended, just engaging in conversation
