Wiring a relay to a Warn Zeon 10-S winch and Redarc BCDC/SB212 Isolator. (1 Viewer)

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Hi Guys,

I am wondering if anyone knows how to connect a relay to the Warn winches according to the attached wiring diagram?
That is, what cable from the Warn winch goes to the blue one in the diagram?

I have asked Warn, and they tell me to ask the local auto sparky, and the local auto sparky says I should measure myself.
The Warn distributor also said I should look myself so I am in a great catch 22 at the moment.

If anyone has an idea, or has done this already I would be very happy!

Thank you very much in advance.

BCDC Dual battery Winching Diagram.jpg
 
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Jefferson
it appears what is happening there is that winch relay is showing the winch is on so the iso turns on second battery.
wire a 12 from your winch disco or add a switch from your remote lead.

Screenshot_20221003-103649_Drive.jpg
 
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It looks to me like that is a ground break to just turn winch on/off, that relay is breaking the neg/ground circuit. NOT the winch controls just a relay to activate winch.
 
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You are correct gnob, the button on the iso overrides it so that the winch uses both batteries instead of just the starter.

peesalot: Isn't the winch hooked up to 86 on the relay, and that closes the circuit to 87 when there is winch operation hence overriding the isolator?
What I am wondering is what cable/terminal in the Warn winch provides this as there are a few to choose from.

Going from the remote plug we have Green, White/Grey, Brown, Black and Red.

Black is connected to ground, Red to Positive, Brown Green and White/Grey are connected to "1" "2" and "3" on the solenoid... I'm guessing it's one of these.

(Pic taken from a Youtube video)

Reading other threads regarding the wiring to the winch as well as Slee's wiring diagram for hooking up a Warn winch to the antenna Switch on an 80 series I am thinking that it's the white wire I am supposed to use since seems to provide constant 12v, whilst Red/Brown are working with Black and Green. Or am I reading this the wrong way?

Screenshot 2022-09-29 at 12.03.53.png


winch.jpg
 
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you need a switched 12v to activate the relay.
the terminals on the contactor are in-ground-out.
your 12v doesn't need to necessarily come from the winch. it's simply an indicator.
 
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you need a switched 12v to activate the relay.
the terminals on the contactor are in-ground-out.
your 12v doesn't need to necessarily come from the winch. it's simply an indicator

But if that's the case, why go to the trouble of writing up that wiring diagram?

Isn't there a point in having some kind of signal from the winch activate it?

I have been thinking about putting a latching switch inside the car for winching as an option to this. As I have a momentary switch for boosting the cranking battery
at the moment. But what you are saying is that there is no point at all fiddling with the Winch wiring even if it's more work involved?

Sorry for asking a question that might have a really simple answer I just don't see yet.
 
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you could wire both in and out signals to it if you want it that way. it just seems you would want the isolator to stay on vs switching. idk
but yes the diagram sucks and its stupid redarc isn't actually helpful.
regardless, you should have some kind of actual battery disco to the winch.
But if that's the case, why go to the trouble of writing up that wiring diagram?

Isn't there a point in having some kind of signal from the winch activate it?

I have been thinking about putting a latching switch inside the car for winching as an option to this. As I have a momentary switch for boosting the cranking battery
at the moment. But what you are saying is that there is no point at all fiddling with the Winch wiring even if it's more work involved?

Sorry for asking a question that might have a really simple answer I just don't see yet.
 
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I would tap the power to winch motor from control box, that way it brings on second battery when motor is triggered, this will have the isolator switching every time you bump winch, might be better to put in your own wire from your winch master cut out that way isolator brings second battery on when winch is powered up. I would install a toggle that says winch power , have it control a relay that switches the main power to winch then pull the isolator signal off that.
 
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you could wire both in and out signals to it if you want it that way. it just seems you would want the isolator to stay on vs switching. idk
but yes the diagram sucks and its stupid redarc isn't actually helpful.
regardless, you should have some kind of actual battery disco to the winch.
I would agree that it should stay on the entire time.

I do have a TJM 500A switch/disco between the battery and winch positive.

I would tap the power to winch motor from control box, that way it brings on second battery when motor is triggered, this will have the isolator switching every time you bump winch, might be better to put in your own wire from your winch master cut out that way isolator brings second battery on when winch is powered up. I would install a toggle that says winch power , have it control a relay that switches the main power to winch then pull the isolator signal off that.
That was my plan. And would you think it's the white wire looking at Slee's diagram?

It wouldn't be too hard to wire it like that instead of like Redarc has drawn on their diagram.

Just connecting two switches (One latching and one momentary) to the override cable on the isolator is easy enough.

This is another wiring diagram from Redarc, is "positive input from winch switch" the white cable in the winch control box?

BCDC with winch smartstart and relay.png
 
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you need a switched 12v to activate the relay.
the terminals on the contactor are in-ground-out.
your 12v doesn't need to necessarily come from the winch. it's simply an indicator.
Are you talking about the contactors on the winch? If so, I have 5 cables/pins, not three.

The contactors you are talking about are the ones from the winch solenoid to the motor right? I was thinking I should not connect anything to those?
 
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the three blade lugs on the contactor is what I mean.
none of those are constant hot. the two outers see voltage when winch runs.
you'll want to use the same lead that the battery cable is on. or your winch remote positive.(should be the same spot.)

Are you talking about the contactors on the winch? If so, I have 5 cables/pins, not three.

The contactors you are talking about are the ones from the winch solenoid to the motor right? I was thinking I should not connect anything to those?
 
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Depends on if that white wire has power all the time or only when triggering in or out ? If the white wire is powered all the time then unless you have a master cut off on your winch power the isolator is just gonna have both batteries linked all the time, to avoid that you need to trigger the isolator with a master winch power otherwise its bridging both batts all the time or bringing aux batt online every time you bump in or out thats dumb IMO, test the white wire and see when it has power, if you plan on leaving your winch powered all the time like mine then you'll need to create a master power to trigger isolator, whats the mystery ?
 

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