Wiring a Non-US Dizzy (1 Viewer)

[Mat60]

Stock dizzy has one green plug with two wires going to the igniter.

Non US dizzy has two plugs one White one Black.

How do I make the Non US dizzy work?

 

[ntsqd]

Look at the wires for both, are they the same color?

IF they are, then with care and a skinny little screw driver you can remove the US plug from the US distributor and install the non-US wires. Be careful that like color goes to like color position.

If they are not the same color then you need a voltmeter. Hook it to the wires and set the range for 0 -> 1-2 volts, then spin the distributor in the correct direction. Which ever wire the voltmeter's + lead has to be hooked to in order to get a plus voltage signal is the + wire. Repeat for the other dizzy, and put the non-US + plus wire in the US plug's + wire position.

Some of the aftermarket electronic ignition boxes (MSD etc.) will work with reversed trigger polarity, but it usually messes with the ignition timing in funky ways. I've no idea if the Toyota ignitor will work with reversed polarity & given their price I don't think that I'd try it.

 

[Mat60]

Wires are different. The stock dizzy has one White
one Brown.
The non US has two black. I can tell by looking at the Non US dizzy which one is (+) and which (-)

Which wire is (+) on the ignitor side ?

Thanks.

 

[ntsqd]

I can't tell by looking at them, which is the reason for needing a voltmeter. Each lobe of the reluctor will generate a ~1 volt pulse. Using the voltmeter is the only way that I know of to check the polarity of the output from the pick-up coil.

The correct wiring diagram *might* list it somehow, but I do not have one of the non-US parts.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Need more info.
I see you're in Canada.
Is the FJ60 a canada model or a USA model?
Is the new dissy a canada model or some other market?
If it is any other market, we need a pic of the inside of the dissy. There are ~200 distributors from 1958-1992 that will drop into a 2F that could be called non-US.

 

[Mat60]

The truck is a US model. California actually if that makes a difference. I got the new "Non US" dizzy from SOR. It has points, and is made by Daiko Electric.
I've tried to attach a pic.....

Jim,
Truck's been De smogged and the carb and old dizzy have been to your House of Magic at TLC Performance.
Truck was running better than ever, and then just quit, removed the dist cap and found a goopy rusty mess....

 

[siddersc]

White connector runs to the coil, black connector runs to ground.
Hope that helps.

 

[Mat60]

The old one (stock) had both wires go to the ignitor....???
One RED one WHITE wire....

 

[ntsqd]

Oey! Points! No wonder the connectors are different. Going to points is a down-grade from electronic ignition. I can see some pluses for certain uses (like extreme remote Overland trips), but not in a DD.

 

[FJ40Jim]

A points dissy does not get connected to the ignitor.

Hafta run a straight coil w/ the points dissy.

 

[Mat60]

That's OK I got the coil too.

So the one with the White connector goes to the coil?
Pos (+) or Neg (-) terminal on the coil?
Does it matter where I ground the other one?

This is gonna work isn't it?

 

[siddersc]

White connector, + coil, black connector ground, you will need a balast resistor for the coil, unless it has one internally?, but it will work no problem.
Standard on a 3F over her in aus.

 

[Mat60]

Thanks All for the help! Will try and wire it up today.
Mat.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Ignition +12V goes to the + terminal of coil.
Signal wire goes from - terminal coil to the white connector on dissy.
Black connector is optional redundant ground. Connect to any good ground on engine block, if desired.

 

[Mat60]

Thanks Jim. Just read that from the manual.
The Factory Electrical Manual shows the ignition wire as Black/Yellow with a Resistor
Do I need to include the Resistor from the original setup too?
SOR sold me the Coil with the internal Ballast Resistor.
Just wire staight from the Ignition switch to the (+) coil terminal right?

 

[FJ40Jim]

The coil determines whether or not a ballast is needed. If they say the coil should be wired to straight 12V+, then that's how to do it.

 

[Mat60]

Wired it direct. Fired right up. Set the timing with the strobe and she's never run better!

The Tacho doesn't work now though....

Looks like if I wire the Black wire to the (-) terminal on the coil?
Any ideas???

 

[FJ40Jim]

Typical tach signal wiring is from coil -terminal. Dunno if that is the same signal the OEM tach is looking for.

Do you know which wire to the ignitor is tach lead?
See this thread, post 6 & 7.

 

[Mat60]

Thanks Jim!

 

[augirthedude]

The coil determines whether or not a ballast is needed. If they say the coil should be wired to straight 12V+, then that's how to do it.

I would recommend the use of a ballast resistor . The term refers to an automobile engine component that lowers the supply voltage to the ignition system after the engine has been started. Because cranking the engine causes a very heavy load on the battery, the system voltage can drop quite low during cranking. To allow the engine to start, the ignition system must be designed to operate on this lower voltage. But once cranking is completed, the normal operating voltage is regained; this voltage would overload the ignition system. To avoid this problem, a ballast resistor is inserted in series with the supply voltage feeding the ignition system. Occasionally, this ballast resistor will fail and the classic symptom of this failure is that the engine runs while being cranked (while the resistor is bypassed) but stalls immediately when cranking ceases (and the resistor is re-connected in the circuit).