Windshield replacement -- not too bad (1 Viewer)

[Spook50]

Getting my windshield replaced, and though most of the rust underneath the old gasket is shockingly minor, there's about a 6mm hole right at the top left corner that's been allowing water into the A pillar. That explains one of the nasty leaks every time it rains. The guy also says the old gasket was installed without any sealant either in the glass or in the sheet metal channels of the gasket, which explains the water coming in right at the top and dripping from the mirror when it rains. All the corrosion he'll wire wheel down, then apply a rust converter and then a urethane adhesive over the top that'll penetrate into the pores and provide a better sealing surface. Honestly I wish I could just Tig up the one hole right now and be done with it, but he says with the converter and adhesive (and sealant in the gasket) he uses it'll easily hold until it's actually convenient for me to tear into it and Tig everything. He's got a lot of experience with 60 series windshields (and definitely knows what he's talking about), so hopefully this fixes the water ingress I've been having for so long.

 

[MarkBC]

Mine looks spotless from the outside so I'm hoping that means the last person to replace it did it properly. I sprayed some rust inhibitor all along under the top rubber trim piece to slow down any rust if it does exist, and otherwise just wait until I see rust beginning. I do have a leak into the passenger footwell but I think that's coming from the cowl.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Good thing is you found someone willing to change the windshield. Mike

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Hi, Good thing is you found someone willing to change the windshield. Mike

A customer of mine had a windshield replaced by a reputable glass put his back in his 60 they didn't even get the head liner back in place so instead of fixing it they didn't charge him and rolled out.

 

[Spook50]

Bit of a disheartening discovery as to the extent of the rust forming inside the A pillar though. Looks like it's crept through the seam and is penetrating into the sheet metal. Be nice if I could find a way to get a nozzle of some sort up into the A pillar and spray the inside down with rust converter. Lots of minor rust repair to do on my rig....

 

[tmxmotorsports]

The 60/62 forum should be renamed to IH8RUST

 

[LazarusTaxa]

Bit of a disheartening discovery as to the extent of the rust forming inside the A pillar though. Looks like it's crept through the seam and is penetrating into the sheet metal. Be nice if I could find a way to get a nozzle of some sort up into the A pillar and spray the inside down with rust converter. Lots of minor rust repair to do on my rig....

I could be wrong on this, but I think I've heard you can peel back the headliner there and access the top (and therefore inside) of the A pillar. Mine has similar rust there and I've always thought it was from wet door seals being pressed against the metal for so long. I really hope it's not coming from the inside...

 

[MarkBC]

I was able to stick the hose in there, I'll check tomorrow when I get home. I have taken out the headliner though so it might require this.

I am really amazed at how clean my A pillers are given all these stories.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Getting my windshield replaced,

Hi Spook...do you mind telling us the cost and source of your windshield glass? Later this summer I've got plans to do a windows-out paint job and this would be a good time to replace my slightly pitted glass. I haven't been able to find OEM glass or something without the silly blue sun strip across the top.

I also have some rust showing in the A-pillar that appears to come from water that enters along the drip rail and not necessarily from around the window rubber. For a repair that will last I think you need to cut-n-paste a donor A-pillar or have one fabricated. Unless you've truly isolated the water source, even then you are at risk of facing the same issue a few years down the road. Not easy to be sure and not cheap if, like me, you can't do the work yourself.

Then again, if that much rust doesn't bother you too much then you can just do what you can now and it should last for maybe 2-3 years before it starts bubbling up again.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Hi Spook...do you mind telling us the cost and source of your windshield glass?

I also have some rust showing in the A-pillar that appears to come from water that enters along the drip rail and not necessarily from around the window rubber.

Re-read your post and looked at the pictures again and it does very much look like water entering around the seal. I guess water coming in around the rear-view mirror isn't likely coming from the drip rail. I'm not an expert, but it does seem like you will want to take the time to cut-out the worst of the rust and piece in some new metal, right?

 

[Spook50]

Re-read your post and looked at the pictures again and it does very much look like water entering around the seal. I guess water coming in around the rear-view mirror isn't likely coming from the drip rail. I'm not an expert, but it does seem like you will want to take the time to cut-out the worst of the rust and piece in some new metal, right?

There was a lot of water coming in around the old windshield gasket. When it had been replaced before there was no sealant used, to which this guy said it was a total hack job. He used all the right DuPont glass and body channel sealers in a new gasket. Had a good hard, long rain the next evening and I was happy to see that 95% of the water ingress is now gone, with just a small amount of dampness on the headliner's upper seam on the A pillar. I'm fairly convinced that is coming from the gutter needing to be resealed though. No need from what I can see at this point to cut and patch anything, so my fingers are crossed that I don't have any unpleasant surprises. The glass guy here applied some fast acting rust converter (I forget the name) that over time will also continue to penetrate deeper and continue working, then the hole was completely covered with urethane adhesive before the new windshield was put in with even more actual sealant inside the gasket. Job was $320 out the door without the gasket. He had forgotten to include the new gasket in the quote and when he realized it said he wouldn't tack it on. Did a great job and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend him to anyone in my area. He's also familiar with the issues the 60 series has with windshield leaks, so that is a big plus for me.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Thanks for the info Spook. I hope that rust converter does the trick. One last couple of questions...did the replacement glass have a brand name and does it look same as OEM to the untrained eye? Finally...are you still rebuilding relays?

 

[Spook50]

Thanks for the info Spook. I hope that rust converter does the trick. One last couple of questions...did the replacement glass have a brand name and does it look same as OEM to the untrained eye? Finally...are you still rebuilding relays?

My fingers are crossed too. These rigs are too fun to lose to cancer. The name on the glass is FUYAO with designation AS1, so it passes all the DOT safety requirements, but unfortunately is made in China (I say unfortunately due to my personal views and the current political climate). On the upside, the glass DOES appear to be of good quality, and has the blue tint across the top. At first I wasn't sure how I would like it since I had driven my 62 for 25 years without the upper tint, but honestly I got used to it quickly and am glad it's there after making a 3.5hr drive west directly into the sunset on a clear evening Friday night.

As far as the relay boxes, yes I'm definitely rebuilding them. I just finished up a challenging one that I'll be updating my thread with for a fellow Mudder up in Canada which involved repairing the actual PCB, but works like a champ now. Feel free to PM me for details on having yours done

 

[40Man]

My fingers are crossed too. These rigs are too fun to lose to cancer. The name on the glass is FUYAO with designation AS1, so it passes all the DOT safety requirements, but unfortunately is made in China (I say unfortunately due to my personal views and the current political climate). On the upside, the glass DOES appear to be of good quality, and has the blue tint across the top. At first I wasn't sure how I would like it since I had driven my 62 for 25 years without the upper tint, but honestly I got used to it quickly and am glad it's there after making a 3.5hr drive west directly into the sunset on a clear evening Friday night.

As far as the relay boxes, yes I'm definitely rebuilding them. I just finished up a challenging one that I'll be updating my thread with for a fellow Mudder up in Canada which involved repairing the actual PCB, but works like a champ now. Feel free to PM me for details on having yours done

What shop is it?

 

[Spook50]

What shop is it?

Valley Auto Glass on Sprague, just west of Evergreen. Just tell him Dan with the blue FJ62 recommended you to him.