Windshield replacement... a rant. (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Threads
22
Messages
204
Location
St. Louis, Missouri
I posting this to both vent and to see if any other Mudders have had similar issues getting your Hundy's windshields replaced.

Okay, so we all know that this isn't exactly a "standard" windshield replacement, but it's not much different from a Camry, which has got to be one of the most standard windshield replacements out there. My 2000 has its original windshield--a Toyota Temperlite Asahi--secured with rivets as it came from the factory. Its never been out, and it is cracked along the whole bottom.

I called six different glass shops in St. Louis that were recommended me by either Toyota dealerships, Toyota independent mechanics, or body shops that specialize in Toyota. Of the six, five flat out told me that they wouldn't do the job because (1) I was wrong, and the windshield was not original, and there is no way that a 21 year old truck has its original windshield; (2) all the Land Cruisers have f-ed up, rusty sheetmetal under the windshields because of botched past replacements; and (3) I'm guaranteed a minumum of $1500 to $2000 of body work in order to get the windshield replaced. This was over the phone, without ever having seen the truck.

I guess with COVID, they all have so much business that they can categorically turn down work and insult customers? IDK...

In fact, the guy who's going to do it was recommended me by the independent mechanic I use, and he initially said "no way" until I explained that it was the original windshield. He agreed that, if the original windshield is in there, its no problem and that if the windshield that's in there now is Toyota glass, it is almost certainly original. But he also said he "couldn't be sure until he had it in the shop, and its a two-day job in the shop to replace, regardless." About $500 with aftermarket glass.

I realize that this is a low-volume vehicle, but its not some super-rare, super exotic. I just don't understand why its so damn hard to get it done.
 
. I just don't understand why its so damn hard to get it done.

Because 9 out 10 of them will be just exactly as they described. Installed incorrectly, screws instead of rivets, poor attention to detail and installation...resulting in rust behind the windshield, especially at the pinchweld. They have other, easier, more profitable vehicles to work on where they don't have to give the 'bad news' to the owners. That's why.

Here are the screws that came off mine when I had mine replaced. And yes....I had rust behind the windshield that had to be repaired. My truck is Texas truck all its life and even garaged for most of that time. Still.....a poor installation is nothing but a headache somewhere down the line.

Look at these damn things. You could use them on gate hinge!

WS screws.jpg
 
Same boat as you are my friend. The factory windshield, crack runs along the bottom. I haven't picked up the phone yet because of what I've seen on here as far as stories go. I live in the sticks so it's slim pickings for installers. Good Luck!!

Same for me. Had to drive 40 miles one way to get mine done. They were aghast at the screws and kept them for me to see.
 
Because 9 out 10 of them will be just exactly as they described. Installed incorrectly, screws instead of rivets, poor attention to detail and installation...resulting in rust behind the windshield, especially at the pinchweld. They have other, easier, more profitable vehicles to work on where they don't have to give the 'bad news' to the owners. That's why.

Here are the screws that came off mine when I had mine replaced. And yes....I had rust behind the windshield that had to be repaired. My truck is Texas truck all its life and even garaged for most of that time. Still.....a poor installation is nothing but a headache somewhere down the line.

Look at these damn things. You could use them on gate hinge!

View attachment 2668139
Wow! That's ugly!
 
Same for me. Had to drive 40 miles one way to get mine done. They were aghast at the screws and kept them for me to see.
Flint, you've got an 80-series, too. How is the windshield installed on those vs. the 100?
 
Flint, you've got an 80-series, too. How is the windshield installed on those vs. the 100?

Completely different. It has a rubber gasket that it fits in (like most older vehicles had). But even that windshield has specific techniques that must be followed or it will leak. Just pertains to sealing the gasket correctly.

Amazingly I still have the original windshield in mine. But probably need to have it replaced only because the Texas sun has about ruined the rubber gasket.
 
I had a leaking windshield. It wasn't that far off from what those shops told you... there was rust that needed to be repaired, holes that had to be fixed so that OEM rivets could be used, a terrible bondo job... you name it and my windshield frame had that problem. I'd hate to look back at how much it cost me, but we got it fixed and it was probably close to what you were quoted. Oh, and after they reinstalled the windshield it was leaking again and they had to set it a second time.

Obviously if you've got the original windshield you're probably in much better shape than I was.
 
Near impossible to find a good installer.

I do all molding removal & install myself.

I watch install during ever step.
The 3 biggest issue are:
1) Scratching paint under molding, exposing body metal. If/when done metal must be painted/sealed. This is why we see rust under molding.
2) Applying black ploy properly so no leaks into cabin (including hole along top)
3) Popsicle sticking out the excess poly from around where molding seat area. The area between "A" pillar and glass is a water channel under the molding.

I then wait a day or so, than install molding.
 
My situation: 2001 LC just rolled over 305K, owned it for a little over a year - not original windshield, visible rust bubbles around windshield, mostly at the roof line and upper corners, I have not removed the trim to actually see wood screws holding my windshield in but I bet that's what is there. It does NOT leak, thankfully, cannot say whether there is more wind noise. ....I've prepared myself mentally to pay for significant body work to get this windshield replaced.
I think Ive found (through Mud) a windshield guy who gets it, he was familiar with my situation, not very sympathetic but knew the drill. ....truck lived in bend OR (dry high desert region) and AZ (really dry duh). this is basically the only visible rust i've found on the truck, so, going forward, after paying for body work this time, I'm hoping to have a go-to guy to replace windshields correctly and eliminate this rusting windshield surround.
 
I'm lucky to have an installer close to me that did it properly and even ordered me Toyota glass through State Farm glass policy. I was out of pocket like $75 for a $700 windshield.
 
Guys reading all this, I got my truck back in January and it is damn perfect, with no rust anywhere. That said, the car just had the windshield replaced right before I bought it. It was done probably end of November, like 2 weeks before I got it. Is there an easy way to check if this was done properly with rivets? How would someone check this after the fact? Just want to check now and if it was not done correctly, get this addressed ASAP so I do not have to deal with rust later.

Thanks!

CR
 
Guys reading all this, I got my truck back in January and it is damn perfect, with no rust anywhere. That said, the car just had the windshield replaced right before I bought it. It was done probably end of November, like 2 weeks before I got it. Is there an easy way to check if this was done properly with rivets? How would someone check this after the fact? Just want to check now and if it was not done correctly, get this addressed ASAP so I do not have to deal with rust later.

Thanks!

CR
It's pretty easy to check. The side moldings have a little rubber strip that covers the rivets (or screws). The screws have thicker heads and will show a big-ass dimple under the rubber strip. The factory rivets will be nearly invisible. If you see big bumps, you've got screws. You can also just peel back that strip (it's only held in by friction) and reveal the fasteners used.

@MissouriLC That's a pretty impressive response from the shops, actually. At least they know what they're talking about. For me, I called around for days. Probably spent 6+ hours on the phone. only found ONE shop that was willing to commit to using rivets and only doing it per the factory manual. All other places said "We don't do Lexus" or had a generic response that "all our technicians are trained and certified on all makes and models."

Also, on my 06LX there was zero visible rust. Once the aftermarket glass was removed it revealed rust and the body work was $2,200 above and beyond the usual glass job parts and labor. If I were a glass shop, I would quote all 100 series customers for around that and then surprise the few that don't need it with a lower bill. If the glass is done improperly (IE with any sort of screw) it's a near guarantee it'll cost $1k+ to make it right the next time around.

The windshield job on the 100 isn't crazy difficult, but it is VERY punishing to the long term health of the car if it's not done correctly. The problem is that it's hard to find mechanics whom are interested in doing jobs "right". Mechanics generally are interested in doing the job "fast" because that's how they generally make more $$. If you want to go a layer deeper, it's really the consumer's fault (our fault) for rewarding cheap repair bills over repairs done right.

I cringe everytime someone on here or facebook is seeking out the cheapest timing belt they can find. As though a low quoted price is anything remotely desirable when having significant maintenance done on one of the most expensive pieces of property you own...

Disposable society. Ugh.
 
Has anyone attempted to replace their windshield on their own?

After reading about nightmare after nightmare botched windshield replacements, it seems like one would be hard pressed to do a worse job than most shops these days...
 
It's pretty easy to check. The side moldings have a little rubber strip that covers the rivets (or screws). The screws have thicker heads and will show a big-ass dimple under the rubber strip. The factory rivets will be nearly invisible. If you see big bumps, you've got screws. You can also just peel back that strip (it's only held in by friction) and reveal the fasteners used.
I will check tomorrow if I can see anything, based on what you explained here. All new to me so I may not be looking at the exact place but will take pictures.

Thanks a lot!

CR
 
Has anyone attempted to replace their windshield on their own?

After reading about nightmare after nightmare botched windshield replacements, it seems like one would be hard pressed to do a worse job than most shops these days...
I haven't done windshield's, but I've done two-part urethane sealed windows which are the same idea, far as I know. There's nothing too weird about it, but a windshield adds some complexity due to its size. If I were doing it again and didn't want to pay/gamble on a shop, I'd do what Paul @2001LC mentioned above. If you take out the molding and install the molding you mitigate a lot of the risk. The additional risk is in the removal and clean/prep process where you might scrape paint off and reveal rust-prone steel. If you do the molding work yourself and you get a shop to allow you to standby while the removal/prep/install work happens you improve chances of success.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom