Window Seals (3 Viewers)

[FloridaLife]

I have a 1971 FJ40 with a build date of December 1970. They did not start making the 1 piece formed window seal gaskets until July of '71, so I'm going to have to buy a roll of gasket seal material and cut it to fit.

Opinions please: Which do you think is better, the modern 1 piece Trim-Loc that does not use a locking lace / thread (you just have to use that tool to wrestle the lock into position), or an original type seal that does use a separate locking piece that has to be pushed into place after the glass is in?

I had been planning to get the 1 piece Trim-Lock, but out of curiosity I called a local auto glass shop and the owner said if I buy the 1 piece Trim-Loc he would not even touch it because it takes way too long and sometimes the locking part of it pops out of place and the glass can fall out.

So, for those of you who have replaced yours, what do you think?

Thank you.

 

[timmyisinthewell]

Which windows are you speaking of?

 

[Living in the Past]

Keep in mind the glass changed size on the hard top sides, corners and hatch when the weatherstripping changed. The windshield weatherstripping didn't change until 1/75 so assume your talking about the hard top.

 

[FloridaLife]

Which windows are you speaking of?

I'm talking about the 2 large back side windows, the 2 rear corner windows, and the rear liftgate windows.

So, do most of you prefer the single piece Trim-Loc type window seals, or the window seal with the separate locking piece that then has to be installed to lock the glass in place? The local glass shop said they refuse to use the 1 piece Trim-Loc and would not even consider doing it for me if I buy that type of seal, although I'll probably install the windows myself.

Thank you.

 

[FloridaLife]

I'm talking about the 2 large back side windows, the 2 rear corner windows, and the rear liftgate windows.

So, do most of you prefer the single piece Trim-Loc type window seals, or the window seal with the separate locking piece that then has to be installed to lock the glass in place? The local glass shop said they refuse to use the 1 piece Trim-Loc and would not even consider doing it for me if I buy that type of seal, although I'll probably install the windows myself.

Thank you.

Also, what is the thickness of the glass? Again, I can't measure because it is at the paint & body shop, and I want to be sure I order the correct seal size. I also tried googling it and searching on SOR but did not find it.

Thank you.

 

[franklin40]

city racer (City Racer LLC - https://www.cityracerllc.com/) has a lot of options. have you looked at his site. for the rear lift you can do the later one piece seal which would always be my choice as i hate seams or you can do the more original multi piece trim. i can’t speak to the rear windows as i haven’t done mine.

 

[Slapshot]

If you have the 2 piece gasket now, replace it with the same.
I tried to replace my gaskets with the one piece type and it didn’t work even though for my year it was supposed to work.

 

[Living in the Past]

On OEM weatherstripping the glass got bigger when the locking strip was was replaced by the single piece weatherstripping. If there is aftermarket single piece weatherstripping that fits the earlier smaller glass I'm not sure of. I just know the earlier glass fits inside the inner lip on the hard top and hatch metal. The change to the one piece weatherstripping 7/71 the glass sits outside that lip. The earlier glass will fit loosely in the later OEM weatherstripping and pop out. Later glass will not fit in the early OEM weatherstripping.

 

[Slapshot]

Here’s what I used

‘73 FJ40 followed me home. Now updated! 12/10/23

Progress was made on the top today! Last month I had my drip rail blasted and epoxy primed. It came out pretty good, some bumps from rust pitting but no holes. I riveted the two pieces back using @zerotreedelta custom rivet tool, which worked great 👍🏻. I have some self leveling sealer...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[FloridaLife]

If you have the 2 piece gasket now, replace it with the same.
I tried to replace my gaskets with the one piece type and it didn’t work even though for my year it was supposed to work.

 

[FloridaLife]

If you have the 2 piece gasket now, replace it with the same.
I tried to replace my gaskets with the one piece type and it didn’t work even though for my year it was supposed to work.

Thank you.

 

[FloridaLife]

On OEM weatherstripping the glass got bigger when the locking strip was was replaced by the single piece weatherstripping. If there is aftermarket single piece weatherstripping that fits the earlier smaller glass I'm not sure of. I just know the earlier glass fits inside the inner lip on the hard top and hatch metal. The change to the one piece weatherstripping 7/71 the glass sits outside that lip. The earlier glass will fit loosely in the later OEM weatherstripping and pop out. Later glass will not fit in the early OEM weatherstripping.

I get that, and I'm probably doing a poor job of communicating my question. I know I will have to buy a roll of window seal and cut them to fit. What I'm wondering is should I buy the same type as OEM that is 2 pieces, 1 piece you press into place around the opening and then cut it, then place the glass into position, and then what I'm calling the 2nd piece is the locking strip (or what some people call the lace) and you press that into a groove on the piece holding the glass and by pressing that lock piece into the first piece it causes pressure to be put onto the glass and holds it nice and tight.

Or, there is now a newer type solution that still comes in a roll, but due to the design of it, it eliminates the need for that 2nd piece called the lock, or the lace. You just have to use a special made little tool to get one part of the rubber out and on top of another piece to achieve that pressure against the glass. I thought since this is newer it would be better, but the local glass shop says it is a pain in the butt to install it and they said sometimes the glass can pop out.

Here is a short video to the cut to fit seal that does not use the locking strip / lace:

 

[Living in the Past]

If you have the 2 piece gasket now, replace it with the same.
I tried to replace my gaskets with the one piece type and it didn’t work even though for my year it was supposed to work.

Do you know the complete history of your FJ40? I bought my 68 in July 74. In fall of 75 I put it on its side and destroyed the passenger hard top side. Then in 76 I found a hard top off of a 73 that a guy traded his 73 for a British sports car minus minus the top which I bought. Still have the original sides and hatch. I purchased my 73 FST in 1994 with what I believe is a hard top from a 72. Has the 9/71+ weatherstripping but not the captive nut for the three point seat belt that started with the 73 model. Bought my 79 from a friend in 1997 with no top or doors. It currently has a top from an early 78 on it. Doors from a 75 and ambulance doors from an 84. I purchased the 78 top with 78 ambulance doors along with a 75 top and ambulance doors back in the late nineties. I also have some late hard sides a friend was going to strap because one side needs a little rust repair. Some 1/75-12/75 hard top sides I bought in 2011 to replace the hard top sides on my 10/75. Small color but much better condition. My 70 and 76 FJ40s are the only one that still have their original tops still on them. When I replace the weatherstripping on the 76 (10/75 build date) I'll switch out the sides. I never assume that everything on a FJ40 is still original fifty years later. Because US market 1/75-12/75 are different from other years in the US and both have original beige paint it will be 100% correct replacement. The 70 is still all original body parts. 73 luckily came with the soft doors and bows. The other 68-82 40s will have mixed years.

 

[Living in the Past]

I get that, and I'm probably doing a poor job of communicating my question. I know I will have to buy a roll of window seal and cut them to fit. What I'm wondering is should I buy the same type as OEM that is 2 pieces, 1 piece you press into place around the opening and then cut it, then place the glass into position, and then what I'm calling the 2nd piece is the locking strip (or what some people call the lace) and you press that into a groove on the piece holding the glass and by pressing that lock piece into the first piece it causes pressure to be put onto the glass and holds it nice and tight.

Or, there is now a newer type solution that still comes in a roll, but due to the design of it, it eliminates the need for that 2nd piece called the lock, or the lace. You just have to use a special made little tool to get one part of the rubber out and on top of another piece to achieve that pressure against the glass. I thought since this is newer it would be better, but the local glass shop says it is a pain in the butt to install it and they said sometimes the glass can pop out.

Here is a short video to the cut to fit seal that does not use the locking strip / lace:

My point is the two different styles.of weatherstripping fit in the hard top sides and hatch differently. Because of that it has to match the glass. Unless someone is making one piece weatherstripping to fit like the early two piece the glass will not fit unless they offer two thicknesses to work with different size glass. Here is a 10/69 early style.

Then a 73 from an unknown month I running on my 68.

You install early glass on the later style unless it custom to fit the smaller glass it will be loose. Just be sure you know what your buying first. Could be someone making this weatherstripping, I've just never heard of it.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yea you never know what pieces were kluged in on old rigs. My 72 ragtop came fitted with a 76 hardtop and doors back in 82. It also had a Delco distributor and a Rochester 2bbl carburetor. All those items are still there and working. I bought new weather stripping but haven't got around to doing the job.

 

[FloridaLife]

My point is the two different styles.of weatherstripping fit in the hard top sides and hatch differently. Because of that it has to match the glass. Unless someone is making one piece weatherstripping to fit like the early two piece the glass will not fit unless they offer two thicknesses to work with different size glass. Here is a 10/69 early style.
View attachment 3708442
Then a 73 from an unknown month I running on my 68.
View attachment 3708441
You install early glass on the later style unless it custom to fit the smaller glass it will be loose. Just be sure you know what your buying first. Could be someone making this weatherstripping, I've just never heard of it.

So again I ask, do you recommend the window seals that use a separate locking lace, or, do you recommend the Trim-Loc version that does not use a separate locking piece?

And is there a particular brand you recommend?

Thank you.

 

[FloridaLife]

Do you know the complete history of your FJ40? I bought my 68 in July 74. In fall of 75 I put it on its side and destroyed the passenger hard top side. Then in 76 I found a hard top off of a 73 that a guy traded his 73 for a British sports car minus minus the top which I bought. Still have the original sides and hatch. I purchased my 73 FST in 1994 with what I believe is a hard top from a 72. Has the 9/71+ weatherstripping but not the captive nut for the three point seat belt that started with the 73 model. Bought my 79 from a friend in 1997 with no top or doors. It currently has a top from an early 78 on it. Doors from a 75 and ambulance doors from an 84. I purchased the 78 top with 78 ambulance doors along with a 75 top and ambulance doors back in the late nineties. I also have some late hard sides a friend was going to strap because one side needs a little rust repair. Some 1/75-12/75 hard top sides I bought in 2011 to replace the hard top sides on my 10/75. Small color but much better condition. My 70 and 76 FJ40s are the only one that still have their original tops still on them. When I replace the weatherstripping on the 76 (10/75 build date) I'll switch out the sides. I never assume that everything on a FJ40 is still original fifty years later. Because US market 1/75-12/75 are different from other years in the US and both have original beige paint it will be 100% correct replacement. The 70 is still all original body parts. 73 luckily came with the soft doors and bows. The other 68-82 40s will have mixed years.

Nope. And I may be wrong, but when I first bought it at the end of May and got on here to ask if there was some way to find out the history of it, I thought you said no. If there is a way to find out, I'd love to do it.

Guys on here said the head shown in pics was one that would gain compression just bolting it on, a late 1F. Cruisermatt ran the number on the OEM carb and said it shows to be a '73 - '74 carb. So there's no telling.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Rear Hatch Window Glass Weatherstrip for Land Cruiser FJ40

Rear hatch glass weatherstrip for 7/'71 to 7/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 in the U.S. market, or through '84 in other select markets. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62743-90300. Installs without locking strip. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can...

www.cityracerllc.com

Long Side Window Weatherstrips for '72 to '76 FJ40 - Set of 2

Set of 2 long side window weatherstrips for 7/'71 to 8/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 without a rear vent window. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62741-90300. Same part fits LH and RH side. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if...

www.cityracerllc.com

Corner Window Glass Weatherstrip for '72 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40 - Set of 2

Corner window weatherstrip. Fits 7/'71 to '84 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Equivalent to OEM part #62742-90300. Same part fits either LH or RH side. Note: This part will not fit FJ45 and vice versa. Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if the glass is replaced with the later type. The...

www.cityracerllc.com

Read the notes for each item.

 

[FloridaLife]

Rear Hatch Window Glass Weatherstrip for Land Cruiser FJ40

Rear hatch glass weatherstrip for 7/'71 to 7/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 in the U.S. market, or through '84 in other select markets. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62743-90300. Installs without locking strip. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can...

www.cityracerllc.com

Long Side Window Weatherstrips for '72 to '76 FJ40 - Set of 2

Set of 2 long side window weatherstrips for 7/'71 to 8/'76 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 without a rear vent window. Accurate reproduction based on NOS sample. Equivalent to discontinued OEM part # 62741-90300. Same part fits LH and RH side. Note: Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if...

www.cityracerllc.com

Corner Window Glass Weatherstrip for '72 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40 - Set of 2

Corner window weatherstrip. Fits 7/'71 to '84 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. Equivalent to OEM part #62742-90300. Same part fits either LH or RH side. Note: This part will not fit FJ45 and vice versa. Cars earlier than 7/'71 can use this weatherstrip if the glass is replaced with the later type. The...

www.cityracerllc.com

Read the notes for each item.

Uh.... NONE of those are for mine. Read the notes for my model.

 

[Ditcherman]

Uh.... NONE of those are for mine. Read the notes for my model.

Sorry I can't answer your question - yet - about which is better, one or two piece as I haven't gotten that far in my build yet, but I have got a ton of stuff from city racer, they are definitely your friend imo. I will be doing some of both, the locking strip is involved mainly with my sliding rear window setup.
Have you looked into what City Racer offers or advises?
I'd be surprised if they didn't have exactly what you need.

Guess the flip side is, how much do you trust your local glass shop, and want them to back you up just in case? Are they just saying that because they don't want to do it (nonstandard work) or are they giving you valuable advice?