Window Regulator Question + LH Passenger Door wont auto lock/unlock

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So I’ve tore apart apart my LH passenger door panel to figure out why my lock isn’t automatically been locking/unlocking. I’ve greased all the moving parts but it still looks like it doesn’t have enough power to lock. The gears look fine and the lock motor sounds strong like the rest but I found out a little possible crack in the mechanism that gets turned by that grey gear. (First picture) Any insight would be much appreciated.
🙂


Also are there any OEM quality or higher window regulators you guys would recommend me while I’m in here.

As well as any advice on sound deadening, you know, while the door panel is off.
😁


Cheers.

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Try a search for door lock actuator motor; a couple of people have repaired
them in the past, but IMHO it's a lot easier to buy a new actuator.

The rear door lock actuators are available, made by AISIN, same as original:


To answer your question about sound dampening and what else to do while
you're in there, this is what I've done:

Clean out the door cavity (disconnect battery first) with car wash soap and water, let it dry.

Prime/paint any surface rust (the crash bar always seem to have some light corrosion).

Repair the loose foam/adhesive "lumps" that stick the outer door skin to the crash bar; do NOT use anything that cures solid like a two part epoxy!!

The door skin expands and contracts wtih changes in temperature/sun exposure, so it needs to "breath". I've used lumps of Butyl rubber rope molded into a lump placed over the original lumps. The correct by-the-book body shop method is to use a product like 3M 04274 NVH Dampening material which is a semi-flexible adhesive foam. But you need a special gun to apply it and it's a pain in the arse trying to work with it inside the door cavity.

Then apply your choice of sound dampener (Dynamat for example) to maybe 50-75% (less might work just as well) of the inside of the outer door skin. One large strip up high, one large strip side to side low is what I did.

Then I sprayed 3M cavity wax into the door cavity; focusing mostly on the seams where the door skin and inner door frame come together, but I did fog everything.

While you're in there consider replacing the window lift motor if that window is slow. Those motors get weak with age and IME there's no easy way to fix them. A good affordable replacement is the Dorman brand IME but you'll have to remove the harness connector from the original motor and transfer it to the new motor. Finally, inspect, clean and grease the window regulator while it's apart, or replace if the wheels/sliders are looking worn and getting wobbly.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 8, 2021
Messages
22
Location
Washington, USA
Visit site
Try a search for door lock actuator motor; a couple of people have repaired
them in the past, but IMHO it's a lot easier to buy a new actuator.

The rear door lock acctuators are available, made by AISIN, same as original:


To answer your question about sound dampening and what else to do while
you're in there, this is what I've done:

Clean out the door cavity (disconnect battery first) with car wash soap and water, let it dry.

Prime/paint any surface rust (the crash bar always seem to have some light corrosion).

Repair the loose foam/adhesive "lumps" that stick the outer door skin to the crash bar; do NOT use anything that cures solid like a two part epoxy!!

The door skin expands and contracts wtih changes in temperature/sun exposure, so it needs to "breath". I've used lumps of Butyl rubber rope molded into a lump placed over the original lumps. The correct by-the-book body shop method is to use a product like 3M 04274 NVH Dampening material which is a semi-flexible adhesive foam. But you need a special gun to apply it and it's a pain in the arse trying to work with it inside the door cavity.

Then apply your choice of sound dampener (Dynamat for example) to maybe 50-75% (less might work just as well) of the inside of the outer door skin. One large strip up high, one large strip side to side low is what I did.

Then I sprayed 3M cavity wax into the door cavity; focusing mostly on the seams where the door skin and inner door frame come together, but I did fog everything.

While you're in there consider replacing the window lift motor if that window is slow. Those motors get weak with age and IME there's no easy way to fix them. A good affordable replacement is the Dorman brand IME but you'll have to remove the harness connector from the original motor and transfer it to the new motor. Finally, inspect, clean and grease the window regulator while it's apart, or replace if the wheels/sliders are looking worn and getting wobbly.
Thank you SO MUCH for your detailed response! I agree with ya, it seems like replacing the window lift motor as well as the window regulator seems like the smart way to go about it while I'm got the door apart.

There are two spots on the crash bar where the foam/adhesive "lumps" fell off and am interested in going the Butyl rubber rope way, but wanted to see what you thought of poly urethane as an alternative.

Honestly people like you on this forum was a big reason why I felt comfortable purchasing a 25 year old vehicle :)

I honestly cant thank you enough for the detailed rightup, cheers.
 
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This is what I used, a few inches rolled in a ball then smooshed down in the
same areas as the original foam. If there's any rust on the sheet metal you
might want to fix/paint that first.

 

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