window problem (1 Viewer)

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Jan 4, 2006
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hello, i am new to the board i have 3 cruisers a fj40,fj55 and a fj62 well actually the 62 is the wifes well anyway, the master switch for the power windows had the front passenger door switch fall off and wont go back together somehow it is broken. well two days later none of the windows will roll down (even at there own switch). i checked all the fuses under the panel on the dash and none were blown, I have been really busy and havent been able to really get in depth with it, but to be honest if it isnt a fuse i am kinda lost, any suggestions on where to start and does anyone know where i can get master switch. SOR has a grey one but i need a brown one
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2004
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Larkspur, CO
General rules about power windows:

A) None of the windows will work without the master switch;

B) Often the master won't work an individual window if that window's switch is missing or broken;

C) Each switch has a circuit breaker that stops the motor when you reach the top or bottom;

D) Quite common to have wires to master switch break at the driver's door, especially on older vehicles. At first they're intermittent.

Replace the switch, or if you really want to verify the above, get a wiring diagram & test the swtich or jump the harness. You should have power to each switch with the ignition on (or accessory if a 62 has it) Window switches change the +/- for up & down.

Check CruiserDan for the brown switch.
 
Joined
Feb 27, 2002
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The master switch has a bar that carries power to all the windows...you gotta have it to get the power distributed. check with james at cruiserparts.net
 
Joined
Apr 18, 2005
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Lake Elsinore, CA
My window lock switch fell out but I could see the two contacts in there and so I just stuffed a piece of tin foil in there and now all the windows work.
 

GLTHFJ60

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stonefly said:
My window lock switch fell out but I could see the two contacts in there and so I just stuffed a piece of tin foil in there and now all the windows work.

Can you say fire hazard?
 
Joined
Feb 14, 2005
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Tucson
The wiring for the windows inside the drivers door sucks. The mid loom connections are poor and should alwasy be considered a possible problem when electrical issues come up. Unwrap the loom and check the splices in there.
 
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Tinker said:
General rules about power windows:

A) None of the windows will work without the master switch;

B) Often the master won't work an individual window if that window's switch is missing or broken;

C) Each switch has a circuit breaker that stops the motor when you reach the top or bottom;

D) Quite common to have wires to master switch break at the driver's door, especially on older vehicles. At first they're intermittent.

Replace the switch, or if you really want to verify the above, get a wiring diagram & test the swtich or jump the harness. You should have power to each switch with the ignition on (or accessory if a 62 has it) Window switches change the +/- for up & down.

Check CruiserDan for the brown switch.

I add one more to this very good list.

E) Sometimes the switches get stuck or lost in a no mans land. For example, the passenger rear switch lodges itself somewhere between on and off. When you try to operate it (the rear pass window) from the master control (drivers seat) nothing will happen until you go and re-center the switch. Another related piece of this is when it lodges itself in the up position. The window closes, the motor stops and for all intense purposes all appears right with the world......until you look at your v-meter on your dash and see it jumping intermitantly from @14V to <12V. First time this latter one happened to me I about shiite myself as I was thinking my alternator was starting to fail.
 
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Hell City, AZ
threadjack:

My window lock switch fell off too. So if I want to use the other windows, we jumper it with two tiny screwdrivers. It's a PITA.

I saw the tinfoil idea and thought ... hmmm. But then "fire hazard" popped up. What if I soldered on a piece of wire? Would that be dangerous too?
 

GLTHFJ60

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I would say that soldering a connection on would be safer, but only marginally. The real problem is having the exposed electrical circuit. If you can solder a connection on and shrink wrap some insulation onto it, then I would say that it is safest. Maybe even some electrical or duct tape. Any insulation is better than none.

I wouldn't want any electrical fires starting under my left arm while I was driving, would you?
 

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
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I can changer the factory master switch with other brand .. or generic controls . ?

In my case the pass window button in the master switch is lost ( really still there but no contacts ) so my passwindow not function but I thought are not related with it, I thought is a windown motor issue .. :frown:
 
Joined
Jul 30, 2005
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Kodiak, Alaska
it wouldn't be a fire hazard. you might blow a fuse but thats about it. The switch is not near a fuel, or oil supply and it is only a momentary circuit. I would only have it as a temp fix and I would much rather have soldered a jumper wire than foil but all the same they are temp fixes. I have seen someone use two roles of foil and make jumper cables. If you are worried about the fire hazard issue put some electrical tape over it and then it sould be good for a temp getto fix. Its is not acting as a fuse and it olny has current passing through it when a window is in use.
 

GLTHFJ60

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batman said:
it wouldn't be a fire hazard. you might blow a fuse but thats about it. The switch is not near a fuel, or oil supply and it is only a momentary circuit. I would only have it as a temp fix and I would much rather have soldered a jumper wire than foil but all the same they are temp fixes. I have seen someone use two roles of foil and make jumper cables. If you are worried about the fire hazard issue put some electrical tape over it and then it sould be good for a temp getto fix. Its is not acting as a fuse and it olny has current passing through it when a window is in use.

I disagree. Sure there will be no hazard without current passing through it, but lets say that after offroading, or even during, one decides to put their window down. The tin foil slipped off the contact just enough for a 1-2 mm gap. Electricity will arc and it will catch plastic, insulation or even paint on fire. As long as it's insulated, it'll be fine, which is what I was driving at anyway.
 
Joined
Jan 4, 2006
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sweet

hey guys thanks for the help i was hoping that if i changed the master switch it would be good enough and since i need one anyway i will try that first:cheers:
 
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GLTHFJ60 said:
I disagree. Sure there will be no hazard without current passing through it, but lets say that after offroading, or even during, one decides to put their window down. The tin foil slipped off the contact just enough for a 1-2 mm gap. Electricity will arc and it will catch plastic, insulation or even paint on fire. As long as it's insulated, it'll be fine, which is what I was driving at anyway.

Keep in mind that we are talking about a DC circuit that is in line with a fuse. I am not saying it's not possible for a fire to occure but the chances of that happening are slim to none. If the person is to jumper the fuse with some foil then yea you are looking for problems. I think it will be safe for a temp fix until he can buy a new switch.
IMO
 
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GLTHFJ60---

I once owned a 91 mustang and the cig lighter was located in the ash try behind the shift lever. the Lighter hole is in the verticle position and I once dropped a chewing gum wrapper in it and the wrapper was made of foil. It never once caught fire but it was blowing my fuse.
 
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The whole jumper question may be moot now. I was in walmart last night and picked up a switch kinda like this for $1.98:

MR21L2BVF2A_pho.JPG


Based it on baloo's suggestion here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=22956&page=3

Now I just to get someone to wire it for me.

Though ... DANG .. I just found this one, that might fit without widening the hole in the panel:

SR1L2BVF_pho.JPG


http://www.switchchannel.com/products/rocker/sr1/index.htm
 

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