Window not going up (1 Viewer)

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Ok, please read.

A search on this issue lead me to buying an OEM window channel run.

Disassembly was easy, as was removing the glass.

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Installation of the channel was also easy with the window removed to ensure the lip goes over the metal all the way around.

20230508_105905.jpg


No issue getting the corner nicely tucked.

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And no issue getting that lip to follow all the way down into the door panel.

20230508_105912.jpg


The issue is after the window was reinstalled and bolted to the lower guide, the window still refuses to go up.

My window motor runs nice and strong when engaged, whether it's to go up or down.

The window does go down in a fluid motion (before the channel replacement and after). But it will not go up at all, and no the motor does not sound like it's dying down or anything. Only way I can get the window up is by doing so by hand (gripping the glass on both sides and moving it up at a time) while pressing the window up button and manually moving it up more. I did ensure the 'c' channel guide was also clean and free of any dirt and debris as it glides smoothly between the wheels.

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This leads me to believe there's an issue between the window guide itself and whatever it attaches to after the motor. Seeing as how everything is really tight in there and I'm pressed for time (newborn baby), can someone chime in as to what the issue could be?

Appreciate it.
 
Looking further into other old threads, seems many just replace the entire regulator.

I'll look into ordering one but will follow any advice offered here in the interim.
 
Were the regulator bolts loosened at any point in the operation? Does the glass tilt forward as it goes up and do any bolts move/shift when the glass is moved up/down? Is the rubber glass run installed correctly?

If everything is good, nothing loose or out of alignment, the most likely cause IME is a weak motor. The magnets in the original window lift motors lose some of their magnetism over time which results in less torque from the motor. The reason the glass goes down easier/quicker than going up is due to gravity (weight of the glass) assisting the motor.
 
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Were the regulator bolts loosened at any point in the operation? Does the glass tilt forward as it goes up and do any bolts move/shift when the glass is moved up/down? Is the rubber glass run installed correctly?

If everything is good, nothing loose or out of alignment, the most likely cause IME is a weak motor. The magnets in the original window lift motors lose some of their magnetism over time which results in less torque from the motor. The reason the glass goes down easier is due to gravity (weight of the glass) assisting the motor.

Nothing was loosened or removed at any point.

The plastic was also completely intact and the 'sealant' along the edge was undisturbed telling me this plastic has never been pulled/removed with the exception of the speaker area.

I will need to inspect the glass for tilting at all but from what I recall earlier this morning, the glass felt nice and secure within the channel.

Yes the channel run was installed correctly as I found a video that portrayed the correct installation; things to note were the lip not to mention the corner being tucked fully and fortunately those were done correctly.

Your explanation of the weak motor though sounds dead on. As mentioned above, the window rolls down in a very nice and smooth fashion from all the way up to all the way down. Not being able to go up (even though the motor sounds/runs) just tells me it's probably really weak as you mentioned.

I'll report back if the new regulator and motor assembly fix the issue.
 
I replaced my DS motor by itself a few years back, and what's been said about motor strength when new compared to old is my experience, as well. The new motor runs about 10-15% faster than any of my older, original motors. The old DS motor died electrically; I'm of the belief the commutator was carbon burned or wore through, as that's the window that gets used most often.
 
I had my DS window stuck fully open a few weeks back and all I did was remove the motor & regulator and then clean the brushes / commutator and its all good again
There was a bit of carbon gunked up on the commutator but once cleaned works like new. Also greased all the mechanical points on the regulator and silicone in the rubber seals

Murphys law in that i was driving home when it was stuck down and it started raining !
 
When mine has done that in the first ast in my 94, the best thing was disassembling the motor cleaning it with electrical cleaner, then removed old dirt grime grease off the regulator, then new grease. Didn’t happen again. Sometimes before all the cleaning, smacking the door a bunch where the motor lives would make it work again
 
When mine has done that in the first ast in my 94, the best thing was disassembling the motor cleaning it with electrical cleaner, then removed old dirt grime grease off the regulator, then new grease. Didn’t happen again. Sometimes before all the cleaning, smacking the door a bunch where the motor lives woul
 
I once spent a few hours cleaning the window lift motor, armature, brushes, and gear box of old grease adding new low viscosity grease, etc,etc as mentioned above. All that didn't help in that situation so I just tossed in a Dorman motor 10-12 years ago, still working. FWIW
 
Following @Kernal suggestion about the motor being suspect, I had ordered a Dorman regulator and motor kit.

Only six 10mm bolts and an easy to replace item; had to put the baby to sleep so I could knock this out.

20230509_175041.jpg


New setup did the trick, and I've got a new channel run installed so I'll be good for awhile (I hope).
 
I have a Dorman unit, not sure about the part number but its on Amazon. Works great.

You can now order an Aisin regulator and motor assembly from RockAuto.


I did see several units on there but I wanted to start driving mine right away. Amazon's delivery was next day.

The window would drop down as I would drive (with the bad motor/regulator setup) so I stopped driving it until I got this done right away.
 
So I'm running into a similar issue... I've replaced both rear window motors with new aftermarkets from rock auto. driver side rear works great however, the passenger rear motor will only go up and not down. I've tested it with another switch and tried it at the driver master panel and neither work. my next move will be to check to see if I get current to the plug running to the motor disconnect when I actuate the switch down. I would guess my issue lies within the OEM harness or perhaps a fuse somewhere.
 

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