Window not going up or down help! (1 Viewer)

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Paul,

I suspect you have a broken wire in the OEM rubber loom between the door and chassis, possibly the red wire. Run those wire continuity tests and I'll finally shut up about it :beer:

I fought this EXACT same battle over the summer.
 
Paul,

I suspect you have a broken wire in the OEM rubber loom between the door and chassis, possibly the red wire. Run those wire continuity tests and I'll finally shut up about it :beer:

I fought this EXACT same battle over the summer.
Agreed, It’s totally sounding like a continuity issue but I’ve never seen one before even in very old yotas, thats why I think doing some diagnosing might be valuable, like you said, its a pita to dig into, but at this point it might be the easiest fix
 
and on that RL connector from the 06 was there 12v between the power and ground wire?
I'll check. I assume you mean at door?
 
Paul,

I suspect you have a broken wire in the OEM rubber loom between the door and chassis, possibly the red wire. Run those wire continuity tests and I'll finally shut up about it :beer:

I fought this EXACT same battle over the summer.
To rear door?
 
06LC 12 to 7 pin RL, 12.65 volts
So based on what we have found out, there is power at the fuse box to the RL, and there is not power at the RL door. So, @ramangain is right, there is break somewhere between the fuse box and the door in the wire. I guess start checking the harness, staring with what is visible inside the door, and following into the loom.
 
I fought with a new motor, swapping out switches, etc on the RL window. I gave up. Shortly afterwards, I routed some speaker wire through the rubber loom and found the break, fixed it, and window worked.

Hence my fixation on a broken wire.
 
Test continuity between the RL switch plug and the two plugs behind the front seat belt trim. With a pick tool, tug on each wire where the two plugs are. If the red wire tugs out, that's your likely culprit.
 
Would it be only at or from RL door. Or could the mess in drivers door be likely point.?
as terrible a job they did running those wires, I don’t think so. Power should go from the fuse box to each door, however, if they messed around under the dash by the driver side kick panel, that is where the harness enters that channel that runs along the driver side toward the RL door.
Test continuity between the RL switch plug and the two plugs behind the front seat belt trim. With a pick tool, tug on each wire where the two plugs are. If the red wire tugs out, that's your likely culprit.
this is a genius next step, but I think the wire color is blue?
 
On my rig it was a broken red wire. I also saw a plug in your door cavity pic that had blue, yellow, red, and ground. No saying if that connector carries power to the window or lock actuator motors. Never assume with wire routing.
 
Result?
 
I've had to much on my plate for last few days. So haven't looked.

Tool issues to boot. Multimeter + wire (at probe) fell apart along with primary oil catch can busted at seems. Just as I pulled a bad transmission pan drain plug glued in, Messy!

Hope to get some time very soon, along with a few new tools. ;)
 
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I did not pull the seat belt trim yet. But did see wires very poorly tap in at master, under front left threshold and behind left footwell kick plate. They just wrap and taped. I notice wire in FL master SW same color code as RL. The Blue /white. Do you know what this wire is for?

FL master SW
IMG_8615.JPEG

RL SW
03LX RL (2).JPG


Tap on Green /white under threshold
IMG_8627.JPEG

IMG_8623.JPEG
 
That blue with white strip with that atrocious "splice" job is for the key door lock switch. There are actually two blue with white from the master switch, one goes to the motor for the driver front window, the other is for that door lock switch. Assuming they didn't splice the wrong wire, it's probably the one for the key door lock switch. So while terrible, I don't think related to the window.

Shame someone paid money for this "install" of a remote start system. Is it from a cold climate? Are you planning on removing the whole thing?
 
That blue with white strip with that atrocious "splice" job is for the key door lock switch. There are actually two blue with white from the master switch, one goes to the motor for the driver front window, the other is for that door lock switch. Assuming they didn't splice the wrong wire, it's probably the one for the key door lock switch. So while terrible, I don't think related to the window.

Shame someone paid money for this "install" of a remote start system. Is it from a cold climate? Are you planning on removing the whole thing?
I warned him (it's recent) not to let anyone mess with wiring. Eventually those connections are going to be a problem. "TOYS". To complicate things. He can't remember if window was working, before install of remote or other toys.

I really do not like looking for issue, coming in behind this kind of stuff.
 
Well, good news that it may be unrelated to the window issue, which means you can proceed with wire continuity testing from the door inwards
 
I warned him (it's recent) not to let anyone mess with wiring. Eventually those connections are going to be a problem. "TOYS". To complicate things. He can't remember if window was working, before install of remote or other toys.

I really do not like looking for issue, coming in behind this kind of stuff.
The ONLY proper way to install accessories is by getting female and male connectors and making "plug and play" harnesses. In addition, the installer should make a wiring diagram and keep it with the owners manual. Then you have a fighting chance of diagnosing the issue, and you don't just have to rip it all out when something eventually goes haywire. If only the PO knew that...

To many people the internal functions of cars are a mystery. So they don't know what to ask or say to ensure it's done right. Same reason you @2001LC have to correct so many poor mechanical maintenance situations because the owners simply don't know how to make sure it gets done to spec(I.E. knowing that you need to find a reputable shop, knowing what to ask for, etc). No ones fault except the mechanics and installers.
 

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