Winch Restoration (1 Viewer)

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Got everything apart tonight. Took some time, a little bit of Kroil, and a mallet, but it's disassembled now. I plan on taking all the parts in to have them media blasted.

I need to remove the bushing from the gear housing. What is the best/safest way to do that without messing up the bushing? That metal has to be soft right?

Here are some pictures.... Last one (in the gear housing) is the bushing I am looking to remove. Anyone know what part number that old seal is? thanks!

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SOR has the seal:


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I wouldn't bother removing that bushing unless you are convinced it's worn way out of spec. It looks like you are deep enough to decide what you want to do with the crack. The wire rope had jumped the drum and pinched the seal area. It appears the crack is in the area of the step in the inner bore from the seal seat to the bushing seat (the surface would have been in tension as the rope squeezed the housing). Basically the damage is only to the seal seat, unfortunately if it was enough to crack, the inside diameter will be out of round. Cross the number on the seal, you can source it anywhere. As far as functionality goes you just need to ensure you have a good seal here, you may end up causing yourself a lot of heartache fixing essentially a cosmetic issue.
 
I wouldn't bother removing that bushing unless you are convinced it's worn way out of spec. It looks like you are deep enough to decide what you want to do with the crack. The wire rope had jumped the drum and pinched the seal area. It appears the crack is in the area of the step in the inner bore from the seal seat to the bushing seat (the surface would have been in tension as the rope squeezed the housing). Basically the damage is only to the seal seat, unfortunately if it was enough to crack, the inside diameter will be out of round. Cross the number on the seal, you can source it anywhere. As far as functionality goes you just need to ensure you have a good seal here, you may end up causing yourself a lot of heartache fixing essentially a cosmetic issue.

When I inspected the housing before disassembly, there was no oil leaking so that gives me the impression the seal was good and the inside diameter wasn't that out of round. The crack seems to be very shallow as well so I am pretty sure it was the cable the wrapped around it like you said. I think I am going to leave the bushing and consider having the cracks cleaned up.
 
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I am going to have the parts media blasted and saw what appears to be heavy grease inside the spindle. Assuming this should be there, what kind of grease should I replace it with? Of course I am going to clean the old stuff out before I take it in for media blasting.

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Dear Diary,

I have learned today that I hate shear pins and broken bolts.

Signed,
:bang:

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Today I have learned a cold chisel is my friend when taking out broken bolts. However, the shear pin continues to vex me.

What do these two bolts fasten down? Anyone have whatever it is for sale?
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Made some progress today. I am getting all the parts in order before I send to get media blasted. The place I go to is great because they can do either powder coating or epoxy primer after media blasting. I am going to opt for epoxy primer and paint myself.

First picture is of the disassembled brake mechanism. I wasn't sure what year this winch was off of but I found a clue that leads me to believe it was early - 67. What is that clue you ask? Well, right here on the brake pad are two screws. Well, I removed them (they are about halfway out in this picture) and found the thread pitch to be M5 .9 pitch. Very rare and only on early cruisers. Well, lucky I documented how to make these screws in another thread. Here you go ...https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-make-rare-m5-9-pitch-screws-found-on-early-67-pics-included.902751/

The second picture is of my inventory. There are few other parts that aren't pictured. They were still in the box.

Last picture is $56 worth of JIS bolts and 10.9 grade mounting bolts. I hate that the mounting bolts are yellow zinc but I absolutely wanted hardened bolts when mounting to the bumper and that's all they had. I am lucky to have a small hardware shop that stocks all kinds of good metric stuff but it ain't cheap. I just figure it would be a shame to go through this whole thing and not use the right hardware. JIS is the way to go and I am almost certain they didn't use yellow zink on early winches.




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Today was a good day. I figured out why that jerk shear pin wouldn't come out. Essentially it was slightly bent. I got it out and am most likely going to thread it with a bolt as I have read people have done it on other posts. Seems like a good idea.

After inspecting the bearings on the worm gear I found that one is chipped (image below). Ugh. I should probably replace this even though it has probably been like this for years. @Living in the Past do you know the part number for this bearing? Also, any recommendations on what grade/size bolt I should use in place of the shear pin?

Now that I have the flanges and shims off both sides, I have OEM seals part 903121-28004 ready to be installed. Anyone know if I need some sort of gasket between the housing and the shim? I feel like I should but I didn't see anything when disassembling.
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Show part number 97600-30206 . Same number for the one on the front of the worm gear. Tapered roller bearing probably includes the race. Usually come as a match set. This is for 3/69 but doubt they changed from earlier years.
 
Show part number 97600-30206 . Same number for the one on the front of the worm gear. Tapered roller bearing probably includes the race. Usually come as a match set. This is for 3/69 but doubt they changed from earlier years.

thanks!!
 

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