Those wireless remotes are only something like $150. I would think you would spend at least that much wireing up all that stuff. Plus with the wireless remote you don't use any switch blanks and you can use it in cab or out of cab or wherever.
winch cab control (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
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Josh83 said:
I think I had $15-20 into my inside switch, similar to Kurts setup.
IMO, the wireless rocks, until the battery for the remote dies in mid-rescue....or you lose the remote....
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The in cab controls go in parallel to the solenoid box connectors, so you still have the remote capability. With our Dual battery system, we effectively have a winch arm/disarm function.
cruiserdan said:
Exactly. It would also disable the winch (electronically) when the cab switch is off... for those that have the solenoid box accessible from outside the vehicle. If it is mounted under the bonnet then the disable isn't needed. With the winch disabled, you don't have to worry about someone dinking with the solenoid box.
-B-
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alia176
SILVER Star
I have both. The handheld remote is great for rewinding wire cleanly after the festivities are over. Operating the winch from inside the cab can be safer at times when the winch is working very hard. You can leave the hood open as an additional protection from a flying winch cable/hook/etc.
I didn't bother with disconnects from inside on either of my two installs (for in cab operations). Since I use deep cycle batteries with the marine connectors, I simply disconnect the positive wire (1/o gauge) of the winch until I go wheeling. So basically, 90% of the time, this wire simply is tucked away safely and the winch solenoid box is completely dead. For the in cab switch I had to use a DPDT switch for the Warn's five wire remote control ckt.
Another handy thing for you to consider is to have a small light installed right above the switch. You can attach this socket directly to the ARB bullbar. This will help you see the cable during night time winching operation.
I didn't bother with disconnects from inside on either of my two installs (for in cab operations). Since I use deep cycle batteries with the marine connectors, I simply disconnect the positive wire (1/o gauge) of the winch until I go wheeling. So basically, 90% of the time, this wire simply is tucked away safely and the winch solenoid box is completely dead. For the in cab switch I had to use a DPDT switch for the Warn's five wire remote control ckt.
Another handy thing for you to consider is to have a small light installed right above the switch. You can attach this socket directly to the ARB bullbar. This will help you see the cable during night time winching operation.
cruiserdan said:
I have this same switch (from an FJ62) and will most likely use a spare rear defroster switch as an on off. Dan do you have wiring diagram for the antenna switch available? I'm not real good with wiring and any help is ppreciated.
8
80Diff
Guest
I've been looking at these switches. Has anyone tried them? At $10 they are worth a shot. Seams as if they might need just a tad bit of trimming.
They are at http://www.4x4mods.com/ in the online store .
They are at http://www.4x4mods.com/ in the online store .
Thats a contura rocker available at waytekwire.com and other places cheaper.
You can get all sorts of configurations and lighting and different covers etc.
Have to be creative with the cool little icons though.
You can get all sorts of configurations and lighting and different covers etc.
Have to be creative with the cool little icons though.
CruisinGA said:
Do they have the
icon available.
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks guys, I've got my in cab controls worked out in my head. Items are on the way. Nothing fancy or flashy, just utilitarian. The cost so far is about $20.00. This could rise sharply depending what a tool box in NM yeilds 
.
hopefully I'll have everything for next week which includes shorter hoses.
.hopefully I'll have everything for next week which includes shorter hoses.
I had an idea today and just happened to find this forum has anyone ever thought of using there mirror controls for the in cab I bashed my driver side on a tree and the motor hasnt worked since. So if I was to use the up and down controls from it then the safety switch would just be keeping the little selector lever over to the pasenger side. Any idea on what kind of power goes through the controls and if the mirror circuit would handle it?
MTBMAN18 said:
Only problem I would have with that is someone else driving the truck (friend/GF/wife) trying to adjust the mirror and inadvertently use the winch,
Your best but is to fix the mirror and get separate controls for the winch, there are plente of blanks. You could get parts from one of the parted out 80, power mirrors are nice, or it may just need some attention,
you must have smacked it pretty hard, I recently hit mine on a metal construction sign on the freeway doing ~60, it was sticking out in my lane (temporary construction lane with no shoulder) I was trying to squeeze between the traffic on my right and sign on my left and missed, the impact made a loud bang noise and slammed the mirror into the door, I was expecting the mirror and housing to be shattered and the motor/wiring to be damaged got home and took a look, housing, glass mirror and motor were all just fine, just put a light scuff in the paint.
Try doing that with a Chevy
Saw the sign the next day it was curled around with many dents.
Dan,
Do you have a wiring diagram on how you hooked up the disarming switch plus the power antenna in/out switch?
-B-
alia176
SILVER Star
B,
Slee's site has this info or at least used to have it. I used it and it works perfectly. FYI. U can stick a switch in the power leg (that comes from the control box) of that circuit for power on/off.
A
Slee's site has this info or at least used to have it. I used it and it works perfectly. FYI. U can stick a switch in the power leg (that comes from the control box) of that circuit for power on/off.
A
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
We will soon have that circuit on a plug and play setup. All built up with relays on a board and you just add the wire. Just FYI.
I did the same thing, only got the push button type. You can use either the in cab control or the hand held. Pretty cool.
http://12voltguy.com/catalog.0.html32.0.html
alia176
SILVER Star
Christo's site still has that diagram but his is a little more complicated since he uses the 80 antenna switch and it allows both buttons to be pushed at the same time so he rigged up dual relays. It seems the 84-88 Toy switch would be a little simpler to wire since you cannot trigger IN & OUT at the same time.
FirstToy and Dan both used that switch along with a disarming switch. Some examples on the internet show the -12v side being switched instead of the +12v side. Others diagrams, like Woody's, are for the 3-wire remote. I wanted to use something for the 5-wire remote.
Does anyone know if the 84-88 Toy antenna switch is DPDT?
-B-
