wierd electrical issue

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wierd electrical issue / filter light wont go out

hey guys..

the 40 cut out on me yesterday when i was doin some errands and it was a bit wierd.. i noticed just before it died a wierd smell (that i usually associate with diesel locomotives for some reason).. and the filter light had not gone out when the car had started.. everything just cut out like power was cut (causing the edic to go into the stop position)..

after it cut out there was NO POWER to anything.. no lights, nothing.. upon initial inspection all main fuses, fusible links and wires seemed to be in good condition. lucky i was near a slight incline and clutch started the engine over and drove it home (gotta love mechanical diesels!! :p)

anyway today I stuck my head under the dash trying to locate the issue when i noticed an 8mm (white with lightblue stripe) going into a 2 pin connector which looked like it was melted.. using the multimeter i could see that 12v was going in but only 1v was coming out.. the other wire with this pair was a black with white stripe

i couldn't find a replacement quick connector so I just got some crimp bullet terminals which fixed that particular connection..

now while the 40 starts and all power is restored.. there is still the issue of the filter light staying on. I am cautious to drive it anywhere incase it happens again (especially since i was gonna go to the exhaust dude tomorrow).. so i would like to see what i can do to fix it..

soo.. does anyone have any suggestions as to why this light could be remaining on. (its never done this prior to yesterday). any issues with it staying on (apart from possibly melting the connection again!?)

Any particular systems linked to this light, i know its on while glowing, so the glow circuit would be one, but any others i can look at?

What are these two wires for - white+lightblue stripe, and black with white stripe? I know the White+lightblue stripe goes to a fusible link just before the battery, but wouldn't of this had to have gone before melting the socket? I can't see any other visible signs of rubbing behind the dash or where it goes through the firewall..

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Andrew
 
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I am not going to be too much help to you but anyway.

Usually when the connectors melt like that it is because the connector is dirty and has a big voltage drop. The big voltage drop causes heat.

I don't have a clue what those wires do but normally Toyotas use White wires with a black stripe as an earth wire if that is any help to you.
 
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I am not going to be too much help to you but anyway.

Usually when the connectors melt like that it is because the connector is dirty and has a big voltage drop. The big voltage drop causes heat.

I don't have a clue what those wires do but normally Toyotas use White wires with a black stripe as an earth wire if that is any help to you.

:doh: Just reread your post. You said black with white stripe not white with black stripe. Please disregard above nonsense.:rolleyes:
 
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hmm.. just had a look at the factory manual..

it says that when the filter light doesnt go out it means the sedimenter needs emptying..

would this be the case even though the wires aren't connected to the sedimenter??

The PO had a 2nd tank and when removing this tank+ fuel solinoid i noticed that these wires were cut..

I had recently washed the 40 with a pressure washer so this might of made a difference?

just a thought.. i might study the wiring diagram a bit closer tonight..
 
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hmm.. just had a look at the factory manual..

it says that when the filter light doesnt go out it means the sedimenter needs emptying..

would this be the case even though the wires aren't connected to the sedimenter??

The PO had a 2nd tank and when removing this tank+ fuel solinoid i noticed that these wires were cut..

I had recently washed the 40 with a pressure washer so this might of made a difference?

just a thought.. i might study the wiring diagram a bit closer tonight..

If the wires have been cut and the light has only just started coming on since washing it I'd say that the moisture might be completing the circuit allowing the light to come on. Try insulating the ends of these wires and see if it makes any difference at all.
 
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I had the same issue, time to rebuild your alternator. I was able to locate all new parts @ 4wheelauto.com they are in Canada and very helpful, I can walk you thru this one, it is a simple rebuild. Basiclly the brushes inside the Alternator wear down, need replacing.
 
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i have now fixed the wires to the sedimeter and no change filter light is on..

i went for a drive today and the light stayed on all the time, i didnt have any issues or wierd smells this time out.

if its my alternator is there a surefire way of figuring out if this is it? Would an auto electritian or my mechanic be able to figure it out?

I have replaced the alternator on my previous 40 but it (or the battery) conitnued with the same issues, of not charging the battery. I am unsure as to the age of this alternator...

I have had a look at a wiring diagram (http://members.iinet.com.au/~ironpaw/bj42_wiringdiagram.pdf) and from what I can tell one of the wires from the filter light goes back to the regulator? Is this something that could require changing?

Where can I find the regulator? Is it usually on the firewall the same side as the glow plugs? (your drivers side my pax side?) Are these easier to replace?

I have had a look and there is a thick white+lightblue wire going into that box, even though it says temperature condenser or something on the box..

anyway.. thanks for the help so far guys.. im still a bit cautious driving it but it was ok today.. so thats a start.
 
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Some parts stores, (big name factory chain stores), will test your alternator for n/c. See if it is good.

Regulator is directly under the master cylinder. Only like $20 part, most places will have to order it. Just plugs in and bolts to firewall. About 2"x1.5" box thing with a 3 prong plug.

Good luck, I am working on problems of my own.
 
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Yeah, that light staying on is a sure fire sign itself. My vehicle sounds very much like your Truck. I replaced my belts when I rebuilt the alternator, the second I fired her up I noticed two things, no more light staying on and more electrical power, you can test the alternator yourself with a meter, just put the positive probe to the positive side of the alternator then find a good ground for the negative probe, while the engine is running you should get @26 volts or better, if it reads 24 or lower there is your answer. Good luck

cruisediesel
 
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*Sigh*

well after A LOT of friggin around I am still back where I was before..

I replaced teh alternator with one from my other working 3B.. I noticed that they are slightly different and the belts different lengths.. so after slackening off the power steer and the A/C belts so I could remove and replace the belt with the different alternator.. the other alternator is back on..

now ive only just finished putting it all back together and fired her up only to see the filter light STILL ON! and no increase in voltage at idle.. nothing.. zippo..

so I'm stumped.. its given me the s***s AGAIN!..

I have some pix of the 3 alternators I have and each are slightly different. The one I removed has an extra bit on the back which I assume is a IC regulator.. the others do not have this.

anyway.. i can't be stuffed with it at the moment so the pics can wait..

any suggestions?
 
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after doing some more reading it looks like it could be a condensor issue..

any wieght to that argument? I will be swapping that over from my other bj42 and giving it a go...

starting to run out of ideas though..
 
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Possible regulator issue

Andrew,

My educated guess is that the following occurred...

Pressure washing the (assumed) engine bay drove water into the regulator, caused a temporary overvoltage. This in turn may have caused a fusible link to go and current to flow through the ammeter.

I suggest that you double check the fusible link separately (i.e. take out and carry out a resistance check. Suggest checking all other fusible links and fuses). It is in parallel with the ammeter and if you just measure across the link or ammeter and one of the connections is good, you will get a good result (hard-wired "OR").

You do not mention the exact location of the molten connector and I cannot see a 2 pin WL & BW connector in my '79 BJ40 and it's too late and cold (snow and -8 oC) in Calgary for me to look at my '82 BJ42 outside, presently being used as a parts storage space.

In theory, the ammeter has fuses to protect it. I don't know if these are intact or even installed in your vehicle.

The regulator is required to drive the field winding of the alternator, i.e. they work in tandem and one cannot exist and function without the other.

The condenser should only really act as a noise filter and I doubt that this is the issue.

In order to check why the sedimenter light is on, try removing the connection to the sedimenter switch. If the light remains on, the likely reason for this is a faulty regulator. There is an optional yellow wire that runs from between the sedimenter indicator and the sedimenter switch to the regulator. It is marked optional. I make the assumption that this can be taken at its word and removed for test purposes. If you disconnect this yellow wire and the light goes out, it's the regulator for sure.

Another test, if you don't want to remove the yellow wire, is find the diode and measure across it or measure the low side voltage of the sedimenter lamp. If the voltage is greater than about 0.7V then the regulator is likely the problem. I make assumption that the optional wire is used to have the sedimenter lamp indicate a regulator fault. I have not searched any manuals but I can only think that this is the reason for the connection.

I can't explain the no power. Sorry.

Hope this helps. If not, please send further specific info and pics of the offending connector. Tracing where the 2 pin connector wires are connected to on both sides of the connector would also help.
 
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thanks for the potential options sabretooth.. I will have a look for this yellow wire and see if it exists. I am not to ofay with the use of the multimeter past detecting voltage so I'll have to do some more reading to check resistance, etc.

one thing I have yet to mention (my bad).. is that I have a volt meter plugged into the ciggy socket which I am using (as well as a multimeter) to determine if there is any additional power being pushed through the system..

When I started last night.. the volts remained the same, at 11.3v (enough to start).. when I increased RPM. the volts remained the same. I have swapped the alternator from another identical (I thought) motor and assumed it was working in the other BJ42.

I attempted to find a voltage regulator from my usual parts place but they have none NEW in stock. I might have to hassle the wreck or worse case, enquire with toyoda about a genuine one..

anyway.. back at it tonight I suppose..

still yet to locate the VOLTAGE REGULATOR (dont recall seeing anything under the BRAKE MC..
 
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is this the condensor circled in yellow and NOT the voltage regulator?
condensor.gif
 
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got some pix of the alternators..

1st pic is of the 3 i have in my posession

from left to right,
the 1st alternator replaced (on the now spare bj42), 2nd is the replacement that was on the spare bj42 (is now in the current bj42), and the 3rd is the one that crapped out (that was originally in the new to me bj42 - and that recently crapped out)..

have a look at the bolt holes and you will notice #3 is not the same as the other two.. as it requires a slightly longer belt
P1010026.JPG


top view of all three.. #2 has a different vacuum pump to the other two (photo angle is from behind so reverse #'s above) (sorry its a bit hard to see)
P1010028.JPG


and then lastly an extra bit on alt#3.. (cylinder thing in center of pic - is this an IC regulator?)
P1010029.JPG


#2 the replacement working alternator (note diff vac pump on back)
P1010030.JPG


and #1 the 1st alternator i replaced on teh spare (looks like #3 but with the bit missing and diff bolt holes)
P1010031.JPG
 
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when I first start my truck I have the battery idiot light on, the e brake warning light on and the filter light. once the engine is rev'ed over 2800 the lights go out, and the voltmeter goes up to normal...

I'm assuming I'm in need of some brushes
 
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dont mind me or my dribble as i talk to myself.. just trying to work through stuff..

the cylinder thing on #3 alternator is supposedly a "condensor" as per the repair manual.

The thing circled in yellow on the firewall is the alternator regulator as per the repair manual.

*continues to study repair manual*
 
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I concur that the black device circled in yellow would appear to be the regulator. (Interesting and logical I guess that it is on the other side of the engine bay to my NA BJ given, presumably, your RHD vehicle). You can confirm that it is the regualator by either what it says on the box and/or the number and colour codes of the wires to match the wiring diagram.

A simple battery and bulb loop test can be used to test whether the fusible link is OK, as well as voltage either side as long as you ensure that there are no other parallel paths. Whatever works for your situation.

If you only have a voltage of 11.3V whilst the vehicle is running, the regulator is probably shot. You should have a charging voltage of close to or over 13V. I have never measured a 12V Landcruiser (mine are 24V systems). 11.3V seems low.

Another thing you could try, but wont solve the problem long term, is take the battery out and charge it, replace and see if the light goes out.

Yet another test, if you have another BJ4x check the voltage whilst charging on that vehicle. Should be closer to the number I mentioned.

Good luck. I look forward to hearing the, hopefully, positive outcome.
 
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well..

found the yellow wire and diode you speak of.. and remove this and the light goes out.

i have replaced regulators from my spare bj42 and light stays on without removing diode..

it could be possible that the replacement regulator isn't that good to start with..?

since replacing the regulator i have noticed taht voltage increases with rev's..

might go for a drive and see how this goes..?
 

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