Wider is better....wheel spacers?

woody

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I'm stalling on the purchase of beadlocks...I was "gifted" at Christmas to purchase a set of beadlocks, but would like to stall on it until I actually have a need beyond the "kewl factor".

Question is on spacers....rockbuggysupply.com has the 1.5" spacers for $41 apiece...good price. Any opinions on these? Any concerns with adding a normal ~3.5" BS beadlock in combination with the spacers later?
 
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I have a question, i heard that the spacers make the wheels weaker, because they are resting farther out on the studs, thus increasing the possiblity of stud shear....true or not?
 
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The models that woody mentions should come with new studs I.E. he bolts the spacer to the existing studs and then bolt the wheels to the new studs which are offset.


The only thing I have heard is this, put anti-sieze behind the spacer to prevent it from "Freezing" to the hub and put locktite red on the studs (spacer to hub) to keep the nuts tight, check torque often also.

I am considering these also, if you get them, please post a tech article on y our install.

:)

Dan
 

Mace

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I was talking to Nolen about the differences between running a Wider front Toy axle (IFS hubs with a internal spacer) and the spacers similar to Rockbuggy supply ones. Personally I was worried about them loosening. But apparently they do not. And if you really like the width you can always have a set of 2" BS rims built with beadlocks.

The rockbuggy supply spacers use another set of studs in them. so you bolt the spacer to your axle then bolt the rim to the spacer. It is a fairly strong application.. The cheaper thinnner spacers that use the stock studs can cause problems..


I would give them a try. If you like the wider stance sell them to another cruiser head to fund the rims.

Also, your steering will get harder.....(increased scrub radius)
 
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Although this doesn't really apply to your situation, I had to use 1/4" spacers for my wheels to clear the tierod ends. Tireguy said retorque every 25 miles until torqu does not change, check 100 miles later if no change then...fuggettaboutit. So far, no problems, about 1500 mi.
The spacers you describe would be a better setup, but how would you check the torque on the inner lugnuts?
 
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I've done exactly what you describe Woody. I say do it. The added width when spring over is fantastic. My rig felt a lot more stable after I added the 1 1/2 in spacers at each corner. It is also nice to be able to return to stock if you don't like the set up.
...But...Use the locktight and check those spacer lugnuts frequently for the few hundred miles. Check them again after each hard run.
When I installed mine the first time I didn't use a thin-walled socket and I didn't get the spacer lugnut torqued enough because of the added friction of the socket against the spacer. I chewed up the spacer when the nuts began to loosen.
I've since used the right socket along with locktight on clean studs and haven't had a problem in over two years. But I still check them whenever I have a wheel off.
The increased scrub radius is noticable. My steering box began to whine more and overheat easier after the install and of course turning radius is reduced. Not a big deal though.
BTW - Alan's price is the best I've seen.
 
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I think when you put a SAS on a mini truck you have to use a 1.5in spacer on each side to make your track width the same front and rear...i know the IFS rear axle is 3"? wider than the Solid axle...those guys do nutty stuff with there trucks so i would say you should be good to go.

Stew
 

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