For Sale WI: '96 FZJ80 Stock DD with Lockers, 132K mi, $7500 (1 Viewer)

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Selling my stock 1996 FZJ80 Land Cruiser, VIN # JT3HJ85J4T0115922. Asking $7500, which is probably a bit under-valued, but I’m looking for a quick, local sale since I bought a new vehicle. I’d love to keep it, but I have nowhere to store it.

I bought it in 2005 with about 85K miles on it. It was my lightly-used daily driver until 2010, when it became my wife’s lightly-used daily driver. It now has just under 132K miles on it. I have all the records since I purchased it. It has primarily been serviced by Andrew Toyota in Milwaukee, WI. Some recent service was done at Scott’s Automotive in Pewaukee, WI by a Toyota Master Mechanic who really knows these trucks. I’ve put about $3K into repairs in the last year. Some recent service includes:
  • 4 new brakes/rotors and rear brake lines
  • New rear shocks
  • Nearly all emissions equipment (including cats) have been replaced in the last couple of years, including a new O2 sensor last Fall.
  • New A/C condenser. Note: A/C still won’t hold a charge, so needs further diagnosis.

It has all the factory options, including factory lockers and 3rd-row seats, except the wood grain dashboard. It’s Dark Emerald Pearl and Moonglow 2-tone exterior with Gray leather interior. There are some scratches on the left rear (see pics) and some small paint bubbles starting on the rear hatch. It’s been garage-kept and well-maintained since I bought it. Per Scott’s Automotive, it’s got a lot of life left in it and any rust is just on the surface…no structural concerns. Also, the head gasket was replaced just before I bought it in 2005 by Safro Toyota in Brookfield, WI. I purchased it at Safro and was told that the previous owner was a member of the Safro family.

These pictures were taken today without any prep or even a wash. This is how it looks in real life.

Looking for $7500 and a quick, local sale. I live in Milwaukee near Bayshore Mall and work in Waukesha. PM me if you’re interested!

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Great looking car. Any chance you can post some undercarriage pics?
 
Going....going...and...
 
CruiserHeads - how do you feel about that rust?
 
Normal for Wisconsin. If you want it nice, clean and black underneath, add 10k and look in the southern states for a locked one with those miles. You will avoid the rust, but gain paint fade and crispy upholstery. This is Still a steal at that price.

PNW is the best of low rust and low heat abrasion


I sold my last green locked one with 200k and not running for $3k. Not anywhere near as clean.
 
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Thanks for the response, Shes Mad. I've tried to price it accurately for the market, the condition and for my desire for a quick sale.

Some additional info.... I had the rear brake lines and hoses replaced on 4/20/17 at Andrew Toyota. As dealers do, they provided an inspection and a list of other suggested fixes. The full list was:
  • Replace 3rd brake light, one license plate light and right front marker light
  • Replace rear wiper arm
  • Replace tires due to age (Note: I also would recommend this)
  • Repair left rear emergency brake bell crank (seized)
  • Recommend engine degrease and dye test due to oil leak (Note: My other mechanic at Scott's Automotive said this is common to 80s and recommended doing nothing. The engine does not consume oil between changes.)
This was my wife's daily driver, so it was not neglected or abused. Except for the A/C, which is partially fixed with the new condenser, the truck is mechanically sound. Personally, I would not hesitate to take it on a long road trip.

Thanks for considering! PM me if you'd like more info or have questions.
 
BTW, by stating that I'm looking for a "quick, local sale," I just mean that I don't want to deal with shipping it, etc. If you're willing to come to Milwaukee to do the deal, I'm confident this Land Cruiser will get you home. Southwest has easy flights to Milwaukee.
 
The price with that rust along with the PM needed seems a bit high. Not mention dat blue interior but that's just personal opinion GLWS!
 
I think the price is more than fair. Assuming clean history/carfax, at that mileage with lockers (but without the rust) it'd get twice what he's asking. He's halved the price on account of undercarriage rust and a grazed body panel.

Someone can buy it, put some TLC into addressing the rust, and have a very very nice locked 80 series for half the price. That, or someone will buy it, quickly paint over the rust, and flip it on eBay to some unsuspecting buyer for $15-18k. I'd buy it right now and spend the next couple weekends tackling the rust if my workshop wasn't 40 miles away.
 
interesting how everyone in my thread been preaching to stay away from rust like that plague. Yet here rust is no big deal and easy to address. different strokes I guess. No offense meant to the seller hope it finds a good home quickly
 
interesting how everyone in my thread been preaching to stay away from rust like that plague. Yet here rust is no big deal and easy to address. different strokes I guess. No offense meant to the seller hope it finds a good home quickly


Don't you know MUD is a community of pricing experts?;)
 
Starting to see that, it's either "way overpriced" by their standards yet sells quickly or a "nice rig" that is bumped for 6 months :D
 
I think the price is more than fair. Assuming clean history/carfax, at that mileage with lockers (but without the rust) it'd get twice what he's asking. He's halved the price on account of undercarriage rust and a grazed body panel.

Someone can buy it, put some TLC into addressing the rust, and have a very very nice locked 80 series for half the price. That, or someone will buy it, quickly paint over the rust, and flip it on eBay to some unsuspecting buyer for $15-18k. I'd buy it right now and spend the next couple weekends tackling the rust if my workshop wasn't 40 miles away.
As a newb, what would be your game plan to tackle the rust? Is it something that with a couple months of work can be addressed so that everytime I'm working down there I'm not dealing with bolts I can't remove?
 
As a newb, what would be your game plan to tackle the rust? Is it something that with a couple months of work can be addressed so that everytime I'm working down there I'm not dealing with bolts I can't remove?

As an overview, overkill is underrated. I'd be pretty aggressive and take out anything affected by rust - the axles, driveshaft, steering assembly, fuel tank, etc, etc, etc - and treat them all with rust dissolver where needed, power clean / sand blast, grind/sand away remaining rust spots on floor panels, clean & re-weld rusty welds, then give it all a couple coats of HD paint, and then maybe a layer of rhinolining or the like. Essentially work from one end of the car to the other addressing any & all rust spots. I would also replace any questionable bolts/etc during the process ... which means tons of trips to the hardware / auto store.

It'd also be smart to take plenty of photos of the before, during & after so if you ever have to part with the car any buyer can be confident that the suspiciously newly painted undercarriage isn't just hiding a crap ton of rust.

The cost of doing all this isn't much, but it's gonna be many hours of hard, tedious & filthy work. And don't shortchange the value of having a solid working area and all the tools you'd need (lift, jacks, air tools, etc). All this is made easier if you can source a junked 80 series for parts or make a deal with a nearby salvage yard for all you'd randomly need off whatever 80 series they have.
 
As an overview, overkill is underrated. I'd be pretty aggressive and take out anything affected by rust - the axles, driveshaft, steering assembly, fuel tank, etc, etc, etc - and treat them all with rust dissolver where needed, power clean / sand blast, grind/sand away remaining rust spots on floor panels, clean & re-weld rusty welds, then give it all a couple coats of HD paint, and then maybe a layer of rhinolining or the like. Essentially work from one end of the car to the other addressing any & all rust spots. I would also replace any questionable bolts/etc during the process ... which means tons of trips to the hardware / auto store.

It'd also be smart to take plenty of photos of the before, during & after so if you ever have to part with the car any buyer can be confident that the suspiciously newly painted undercarriage isn't just hiding a crap ton of rust.

The cost of doing all this isn't much, but it's gonna be many hours of hard, tedious & filthy work. And don't shortchange the value of having a solid working area and all the tools you'd need (lift, jacks, air tools, etc). All this is made easier if you can source a junked 80 series for parts or make a deal with a nearby salvage yard for all you'd randomly need off whatever 80 series they have.
Thanks for the in depth response!
 

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