Why is my 100 wearing out cv axles? (1 Viewer)

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I'm lifted, with no diff drop. My original CVs were toast prior to lift, and I ended up getting aftermarket CVs. They lasted about 50k miles before the boots tore, but no noises or clicking. It's pretty hard to believe a set of OEM CVs would be misbehaving so early even on a lifted w/out drop cruiser.

That being said.. because I live in an area with virtually zero chance of driving in ice/snow often, I opted to recently install a part time kit from @cruiseroutfit . This kit is cheaper than replacing a set of OEM CVs, and disables the front driveline from rotating unless the hubs are locked or the case is locked. There are several benefits to this IMO, but one of the highest on the list is that the CVs no longer do anything unless I am in 4x.
The collaboration on this forum is great, but I need solutions people! Let’s go! LOL
 

G-Cat

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CVJ and they’re trash. The CV axles they “rebuild” are used and typically have outboard splines that are beat to death. And their “rebuild” process is nothing more than removing the old boots, cleaning out the old grease, adding new grease, and installing new boots. You can do that yourself with a $60 boot kit from Toyota and save yourself from wasting another $200 to CVJ.
Yikes. Thanks for the background!
 

YardPig

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Do your 'factory oem' axles have yellow boot clamps? Are you sure they were not 'factory reman', as these also exist...
 
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I started seeing non yellow clamps on new OEM FDS (picked-up at Toyota), in last year or so. I assume supply lines issues. They seem just as good.
 

YardPig

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Without knowing what was installed into his unit, we are all guessing as to quality... I find it hard to believe he's blowing through OEM NEW axles even if lifted to the max, unless Mr. T is now outsourcing axles to inferior quality new or he has reman axles installed. What did OP pay for his axles should be some of the answer.


 
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So for those interested, this is what I’ve been able to find out about this issue thanks to Ben at Slee Off-road. The 100s are extremely sensitive to aftermarket CVS. For mysterious reasons, they just don’t last. Ben told me they had a 100 in recently with with a CV less than a week old, and it was already done for. You’ve got to replace with a genuine Toyota. You also have to replace the flange at the same time, as well as grease the brass fitting that goes with the flange. Follow this protocol, and you should be good. Thanks to everyone providing insight on this - greatly appreciated.
 

YardPig

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The aftermarket CV's only have four balls in the cage vs six in OEM Toyota. With any lift the aftermarket bind and tear them apart in short order.
 
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So for those interested, this is what I’ve been able to find out about this issue thanks to Ben at Slee Off-road. The 100s are extremely sensitive to aftermarket CVS. For mysterious reasons, they just don’t last. Ben told me they had a 100 in recently with with a CV less than a week old, and it was already done for. You’ve got to replace with a genuine Toyota. You also have to replace the flange at the same time, as well as grease the brass fitting that goes with the flange. Follow this protocol, and you should be good. Thanks to everyone providing insight on this - greatly appreciated.
I'll add some parts to the list.
  1. Oil seal, diff side. Last thing you'll want is to go back in, due to gear lube leak.
  2. Cone washers, for the new Hub flanges. Good used hub flange and cone washers, can be used. But best is to seat all new, w/new axle of FDS (AKA CV), to get max clunk free miles.
  3. Snap ring, and sized for proper gap. Always replace, anytime removed is best practice for health of axle groove. Setting gap is essential to health of splines.
  4. Grease cap. Must be tight, to seal out water.
I've heard of one new OEM FDS busting locally. But the rig is triple locked, TRD super charge beast. I suspect it bounce/hoped off the rocks on a climb while off road.
 
Last edited:
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On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.
5301844E-38B1-454C-BD45-8342B3D6A630.jpeg
 
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What can I do to fix it?
Bought cruiser with 155,000 miles replaced both cv axle joints with new Toyota and installed Slee diff drop kit. 30,000 miles later and I already had to replace the right one and now the left one is going out. Any ideas on what I can check or do to keep them from wearing out so quick, my off-roading would be considered mild at worst
Is the 100 lifted? if yes how high
 
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On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.
View attachment 2983424
Well that's interesting.
 

abuck99

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There’s a company that offers CV axels for lifted 100s. They use OEM Toyota CVs and rebuild them for use with lift.

They have a red rather than a black boot.

My mushy brain can’t remember what changes they make, the name of the company, or if any 100 Series owners have had luck with them.

Useless post, I know…just hoping someone has more info.
Maybe you’re thinking of RCV?

They make uprated axles for Toyotas but nothing for 100’s on the website.

RCV Performance
 
Last edited:

OwnerCS

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On the topic of diff oil seals, it seems like there are also Made in Vietnam (It came from Amayama) floating around. Not sure if this is something new.

Fortunately I received a Japan made oil seal in an order with my local dealership.
View attachment 2983424

They have the correct markings. Found this about oils seals.

I've noticed some of the highest quality outdoor adventure wear clothing and off-road tool bags now come from Vietnam. I know of one company that says that is the only place where they can get intricate stitching that's become a lost art in other places.


1650199221548.png



 
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Looks like Made in Vietnam RH differential oil seals are in full circulation within Toyota's US distribution now. I bought another spare oil seal to see if I'd get a Japanese one from the Lexus 4th of July sale, nope. Left side was still Japanese made when I received mine early this year.

Pretty much what happened to Japanese manufactured oil filters are now happening on FDS oil seals too.
1656709015863.png
 

trdcorolla

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Looks like Made in Vietnam RH differential oil seals are in full circulation within Toyota's US distribution now. I bought another spare oil seal to see if I'd get a Japanese one from the Lexus 4th of July sale, nope. Left side was still Japanese made when I received mine early this year.

Pretty much what happened to Japanese manufactured oil filters are now happening on FDS oil seals too.
View attachment 3047632
The OEM seals are made by NOK. I wonder if you call local off road shops that specialize in Toyota, they might stock these NOK seals and if they are older stock, they should be made in Japan. Or you can probably call your local dealer, they might have a Japanese one on their shelf.
 
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The OEM seals are made by NOK. I wonder if you call local off road shops that specialize in Toyota, they might stock these NOK seals and if they are older stock, they should be made in Japan. Or you can probably call your local dealer, they might have a Japanese one on their shelf.
RH: NOK BH5321F
LH: NOK BH53201
 

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