Why does everyone want Rock Warrior wheels? (1 Viewer)

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I see lots of people talking about these. The main thing people seem to like is the appearance. Is there something else I’m missing relating to performance? Seems like some Method Racing wheels would be much easier to come by.
 
VERY VERY strong and lightweight wheel. OEM quality and strength in a 17” that’s very inexpensive as a take-off. Plus 17” wheels are preferred by a lot of off people for off-road.
Also the +50 offset is very desirable in the 200 community. That extra 10mm of clearance over other oem wheels means a lot.
 
VERY VERY strong and lightweight wheel. OEM quality and strength in a 17” that’s very inexpensive as a take-off. Plus 17” wheels are preferred by a lot of off people for off-road.
Also the +50 offset is very desirable in the 200 community. That extra 10mm of clearance over other oem wheels means a lot.

thanks for the reply. Looks like some adjustments have to be made for the 100, correct?
 
thanks for the reply. Looks like some adjustments have to be made for the 100, correct?
Yes, most run 1.25” spacers/adapters, other wise the lip that retains the center cap would not clear the hub of the 100. It’s possible to have the wheels machined to fit or use a 10mm spacer but both of those options mean tossing the center caps.
So really the +50 draw of the Rock Warriors doesn’t normally mean anything to 100s. Plus you may gain lightweight strength with Rock Warriors but then you give it right back up with spacers/adapters.
So yeah I get the draw for 200s but not necessarily for 100s.:meh:
 
I was at Maineline Overland enquiring about Evo Corse wheels (17x8, +40) a little while back. I was told they began importing them after breaking two separate Rock Warrior wheels on their Tundra. I have no basis to compare strength but Mainline at least felt they were not strong enough for their purposes.
 
I was at Maineline Overland enquiring about Evo Corse wheels (17x8, +40) a little while back. I was told they began importing them after breaking two separate Rock Warrior wheels on their Tundra. I have no basis to compare strength but Mainline at least felt they were not strong enough for their purposes.
Man I would love love love to have some +40s for my 200. Maybe one day...
 
Scored a mint complete set today! :) Now to find a spare and a 100 to put them on 😂
C74B6E9B-9618-4A3B-B7E9-CDFE08EC2F6F.jpeg

I searched and found many RW threads but none specifically laying out the different ways to get them to fit. Of course there are 10mm slip on spacers, the wheels can be machined (exactly how?) and there are domed center caps available (anyone have a part number?). While I’m not against spacers this time I’m leaning towards having them machined and using the domed caps... Are the domed caps tall enough to clear without using spacers?
 
@GTV I don't have a clue where your location is... "Si'ahl"... I couldn't find it on google maps at all... how close are you to Utah, USA....? I know a guy that was selling 3 of them and he'd sell them individually. I can see if he's still got them if ya want one for a spare....?
 
@GTV I don't have a clue where your location is... "Si'ahl"... I couldn't find it on google maps at all... how close are you to Utah, USA....? I know a guy that was selling 3 of them and he'd sell them individually. I can see if he's still got them if ya want one for a spare....?

I'm in Seattle, yes please check with him, thanks!!
 
Scored a mint complete set today! :) Now to find a spare and a 100 to put them on 😂
View attachment 2287794
I searched and found many RW threads but none specifically laying out the different ways to get them to fit. Of course there are 10mm slip on spacers, the wheels can be machined (exactly how?) and there are domed center caps available (anyone have a part number?). While I’m not against spacers this time I’m leaning towards having them machined and using the domed caps... Are the domed caps tall enough to clear without using spacers?
Nice find. Love the classic bfg’s - May want to check manufacturer’s date on those, although the rubber looks to be in great condition
 
Nice find. Love the classic bfg’s - May want to check manufacturer’s date on those, although the rubber looks to be in great condition

I haven't checked the date on them but they do look pretty good. I'll probably just sell these as I'm planning to run the 285/70's in C load.

I found a set here in Nor. Cal. recently. They are hard to find, took about 2 years. Sellers often want ridiculous money for them. Biggest draw for me is the looks...
View attachment 2288172

I have been looking for a few months. I was preparing to shell out a grand or more for a complete set but I was patient and got a steal on these.
TBH I'm more keen on the specs than the looks, the fake beadlock thing bothers me but I have a few ideas in mind to help with that. Anyone need some rings in good condition?
 
VERY VERY strong and lightweight wheel. OEM quality and strength in a 17” that’s very inexpensive as a take-off. Plus 17” wheels are preferred by a lot of off people for off-road.
Also the +50 offset is very desirable in the 200 community. That extra 10mm of clearance over other oem wheels means a lot.



This. Over the stock wheels on my 200 I drop about 8 pounds a wheel
 
I was preparing to shell out a grand or more for a complete set
TBH I'm more keen on the specs than the looks, the fake beadlock thing bothers me but I have a few ideas in mind to help with that.

For that money, Evo Corse makes a 17x8 +40 wheel, made in Italy (I don’t know where Rock Warriors are made), likely stronger, less common, and good looking. I think I’ve seen one set second hand. For me, keen on the specs but not the RW aesthetic, Rock Warriors can be an acceptable alternative but for over a grand it would be a no go. Awesome though when you can find a great deal!

View attachment 2288426
 
Yes, most run 1.25” spacers/adapters, other wise the lip that retains the center cap would not clear the hub of the 100. It’s possible to have the wheels machined to fit or use a 10mm spacer but both of those options mean tossing the center caps.
So really the +50 draw of the Rock Warriors doesn’t normally mean anything to 100s. Plus you may gain lightweight strength with Rock Warriors but then you give it right back up with spacers/adapters.
So yeah I get the draw for 200s but not necessarily for 100s.:meh:


I originally wanted these wheels too, they are 17's and forged making them desirable to 100 and 200 series owners. This is the reason why I veered away from getting the Rock Warriors, the use of spacers just don't give me peace of mind...
 
Because they look awesome. I like my stock 16s for the added sidewall but the rock warriors look great and are well designed wheels.

The faux beadlock does a good job at providing extra valve stem and rim edge protection. My rim edges are marred up a little from locker hopping into a rock here and there.
 
I searched and found many RW threads but none specifically laying out the different ways to get them to fit. Of course there are 10mm slip on spacers, the wheels can be machined (exactly how?) and there are domed center caps available (anyone have a part number?).
This is the exact issue.

A machine shop can bore that lip out like such.... it's not the entire center bore, just the outer edge. And it's only an issue on the front hubs but if you want to rotate all wheels, you have to bore out all the wheels.

 
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For that money, Evo Corse makes a 17x8 +40 wheel, made in Italy (I don’t know where Rock Warriors are made), likely stronger, less common, and good looking. I think I’ve seen one set second hand. For me, keen on the specs but not the RW aesthetic, Rock Warriors can be an acceptable alternative but for over a grand it would be a no go. Awesome though when you can find a great deal!

View attachment 2288426

I got a great deal. Good enough that at first I thought the ad might be a scam! I still can’t believe I landed these.

I don’t mind aftermarket wheels on the right build but I really like how factory Toyota wheels just look like they belong, very much under the radar.
 
This is the exact issue.

A machine shop can bore that lip out like such.... it's not the entire center bore, just the outer edge. And it's only an issue on the front hubs but if you want to rotate all wheels, you have to bore out all the wheels.



Ok, I’ll just wait until I have some factory 100 wheels (and a spare RW) and I’ll have these bored to the same specs.

Does anyone know if the domed TRD cap will clear the dust cap on wheels machined to fit?
 

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