Why are my tires rubbing now? (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

I have the usual BFG KO2s in 285/70R17 on RW wheels, they were on the truck when I got it, they still have quite a bit of tread left. I had them on when I had the BP-51 system with OME UCAs installed last fall. No rubbing, worked great, even after having it aligned.

I run different tires/rims in the winter, but wanted the KOs back on for my southern road trip, which I'm on now.

Put them on last Monday, and found they now rub on the front mud flap plastics when turning hard, both sides. WTF??

I had it realigned last week before leaving, but they still rub.

Truck drives much better now, straight, less tendancy to wander.

Any ideas? I really don't want to start hacking my mud flaps.

 

[CharlieS]

That rear mudflap on the front wheel opening unbolts easily. Maybe pop it off until you have more time to mess with it? I've had mine off for almost as long as I've owned the vehicle.

 

[Fisher23]

Possibly the front mud flap was heated and pushed back. Once that is done you need to pin it in place with a couple screws so it doesn't pop back out.

As mentioned above you can easily remove it until you mold it back in place and pin it down.

 

[Markuson]

I have the usual BFG KO2s in 285/70R17 on RW wheels, they were on the truck when I got it, they still have quite a bit of tread left. I had them on when I had the BP-51 system with OME UCAs installed last fall. No rubbing, worked great, even after having it aligned.

I run different tires/rims in the winter, but wanted the KOs back on for my southern road trip, which I'm on now.

Put them on last Monday, and found they now rub on the front mud flap plastics when turning hard, both sides. WTF??

View attachment 2954388

I had it realigned last week before leaving, but they still rub.

Truck drives much better now, straight, less tendancy to wander.

Any ideas? I really don't want to start hacking my mud flaps.

For what it’s worth… Most who add Rock Warriors wheels and those same KO twos remove those Mud guards as a matter of routine and usually necessity.

[CORRECTION… My eyes resd that you have OEM YCA, but I see you meant Old Man Emu…shich OlI have not used]

my question would be… How is it you were not rubbing previously? In any event… The rubbing you are experiencing is entirely expected and normal. My suggestion for you would be to upgrade your UCLA’s to SPC, which will allow a forward adjustment of your wheels and tires in the wheel well.

 

[bloc]

Someone went around and loosened your body mount bolts and the cabin has slid forward?

Kidding.

Really odd that it would present now when it hadn't before. How long had the lift been on? Was it new back when they didn't rub? Any adjustments to ride height in the interim?

Just for info I run the same size toyo AT3, which are marginally larger than the KO2s. I get a slight rub on one side at full lock with OME upper arms.

Also I vote keeping the flaps.. they help keep rock chips off the doors and front edge of the rocker panel.

 

[KLF]

For what it’s worth… Most who add Rock Warriors wheels and those same KO twos remove those Mud guards as a matter of routine and usually necessity.

The fact you have ORM UCAs is likely contributing as well.

my question would be… How is it you were not rubbing previously? In any event… The rubbing you are experiencing is entirely expected and normal. My suggestion for you would be to upgrade your UCLA’s to SPC, which will allow a forward adjustment of your wheels and tires in the wheel well.

Exactly, why are they rubbing now, but they didn't before? And I wasn't aware this was normal for this size tire. I'll recheck the tire database.

I won't be swapping out the UCAs, that's just crazy to toss $700 of parts. I have a lot of tools with me on board, so I'll probably pull off the mud flaps for now until I can get home and massage them with a heat gun.

 

[KLF]

Someone went around and loosened your body mount bolts and the cabin has slid forward?

Kidding.

Really odd that it would present now when it hadn't before. How long had the lift been on? Was it new back when they didn't rub? Any adjustments to ride height in the interim?

Just for info I run the same size toyo AT3, which are marginally larger than the KO2s. I get a slight rub on one side at full lock with OME upper arms.

Also I vote keeping the flaps.. they help keep rock chips off the doors and front edge of the rocker panel.

The lift was installed new late September, and I drove with those tires on for at least a month until swapping to the winter set. No rubbing. Nothing has changed, except I have been driving it all winter - maybe it has settled in some and sits a little lower? Unfortunately I don't have my measurement notes with me to see if it is sitting lower.

And I may be mistaken, but it looks to me that adding spacers will make the problem worse, not better?

 

[bloc]

The lift was installed new late September, and I drove with those tires on for at least a month until swapping to the winter set. No rubbing. Nothing has changed, except I have been driving it all winter - maybe it has settled in some and sits a little lower? Unfortunately I don't have my measurement notes with me to see if it is sitting lower.

And I may be mistaken, but it looks to me that adding spacers will make the problem worse, not better?

That is good info. If you check the angle of your upper arm pivot bolt, you'll see as the suspension cycles up it shifts the tire/wheel backward. So the new rub could be your suspension settling in.

And yes wheel spacers would definitely make this worse, as they will shift the wheel away from the hub face and it's the outer edge rubbing.

If the rubbing isn't too bad it can go for a while due to the shape of the mud flap where it actually rubs.. it's round. Nothing to catch on. Mine is so slight I'm not even bothering to heat and shape them. All I get is an area that is always clean of mud and dirt.

 

[Markuson]

The lift was installed new late September, and I drove with those tires on for at least a month until swapping to the winter set. No rubbing. Nothing has changed, except I have been driving it all winter - maybe it has settled in some and sits a little lower? Unfortunately I don't have my measurement notes with me to see if it is sitting lower.

And I may be mistaken, but it looks to me that adding spacers will make the problem worse, not better?

If you were initially on brand new front coil overs, it could be that they settled a bit as tgry normally do…dropping you just enough for a bit of contact. Either way… yank the mud guards.

 

[TLC2013]

Do know what the alignment specs were from your most recent alignment? If the rubbing is as minimal as it looks, adding a bit more caster would position the wheel further forward and should then clear the mud flaps. Just don’t want to go too far forward and end up with the tire hitting the driver side KDSS. I went from 2.5 degrees to to 3.5 degrees and now ever so slightly rub the driver side KDSS at full lock. I was clearing it by about 1/2 inch before upping my caster.

 

[WCDAVE]

With a heat gun you can easily massage the offending area of the mud flaps back with them in place. I used an old fish hook and fishing line, but whatever works to hold it in place and out of the way while heating then douse it with cold water from the hose to lock it in. Cutting them is the easiest and surest solution, but I am in the OP's camp as I prefer the protection they provide as designed.

 

[KLF]

I'm still on my trip but got fed up with the rubbing today. Took the flaps off in a parking lot while the GF was doing some shopping. Very easy, if you have a T30 bit.

It's infuriating that they rub after spending the coin for a "premium" suspension system. They never rubbed on the factory suspension. It makes no sense to me that the OME arms could be the cause, seems like if you moved the upper pivot to avoid the rubbing that it would throw off the caster or camber.

I'll probably call ARB when I'm back home next week to see if they have any input.

 

[bloc]

I'm still on my trip but got fed up with the rubbing today. Took the flaps off in a parking lot while the GF was doing some shopping. Very easy, if you have a T30 bit.

It's infuriating that they rub after spending the coin for a "premium" suspension system. They never rubbed on the factory suspension. It makes no sense to me that the OME arms could be the cause, seems like if you moved the upper pivot to avoid the rubbing that it would throw off the caster or camber.

I'll probably call ARB when I'm back home next week to see if they have any input.

Actually when you think about it a suspension that corrects the geometry of the front end is exactly what can lead to rubbing at the rear of the wheel well.

Due to the pivot bolt of the top arm being tilted rearward, which is that way to allow a natural rearward movement of the axle when the suspension cycles upwards, if you lift the vehicle it tilts the knuckle forward at ride height, reducing caster and making it difficult to get the alignment into a range that drives correctly. Aftermarket arms will correct this by tilting the knuckle backwards.. and if those tires are large enough you get some rub. The way you were avoiding it right after the lift was the springs still not settling.. I'm betting you were extremely close at that point.

Most people have no problem removing the mud flaps and as a result that is likely ARB's solution. A minority would rather keep them, which requires the mods.. or dealing with a light rub.

 

[KLF]

Actually when you think about it a suspension that corrects the geometry of the front end is exactly what can lead to rubbing at the rear of the wheel well.

Due to the pivot bolt of the top arm being tilted rearward, which is that way to allow a natural rearward movement of the axle when the suspension cycles upwards, if you lift the vehicle it tilts the knuckle forward at ride height, reducing caster and making it difficult to get the alignment into a range that drives correctly. Aftermarket arms will correct this by tilting the knuckle backwards.. and if those tires are large enough you get some rub. The way you were avoiding it right after the lift was the springs still not settling.. I'm betting you were extremely close at that point.

Most people have no problem removing the mud flaps and as a result that is likely ARB's solution. A minority would rather keep them, which requires the mods.. or dealing with a light rub.

OK thank you, that is helpful. I plan to pull the wheels and stare at the geometry when I get back home next week. Now that they are removed, I'm not comfortable leaving the flaps off, as it exposes catch points where salty slush can sit and cause corrosion problems in the winter. I'll post photos after massaging with the heat gun.

I had thoughts of going up a size when these KO2s wear out, but I like the stance it has now so I'll just keep this size, will consider other brands though. I just need to fix the lean, which will probably require a spacer in the rear.