question to those of you running soa with no cut and turn i need pics and want to know your angles. pinion, caster etc.. pics would be nice if you have them i am starting soa and will probably not cut and turn. thanks fellas 
Whos soa with no cut&turn (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter camcruiser13
- Start date
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It isnt that hard. If you are going to do it, do it right.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53413
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=53413
- Thread starter
- #3
who said cut and turn is the right way? there was a huge discusion on this matter, i believe it helps if you c&t and i believe it doesnt hurt to not c&t.
Well I am for at least 2 more days.
No problems as long as I was not in 4wd. With 4wd it caused the front stock drive shaft to bind eventually wearing out the front seal on tranfercase and the slip yoke on the drive shaft. If you going to do the SOA you have to cut the perches off anyway why not just go one step further and save yourself a headache in the future.
No problems as long as I was not in 4wd. With 4wd it caused the front stock drive shaft to bind eventually wearing out the front seal on tranfercase and the slip yoke on the drive shaft. If you going to do the SOA you have to cut the perches off anyway why not just go one step further and save yourself a headache in the future.
I did not cut and turn but I also did not do a SR. If you do a SR IMHO you MUST cut and turn. I set my caster at 5deg, because based on everything I have read big tires like more caster. I also drove around with too little caster for awhile SUA and that scared the poo out of me.
I may install some two degree shims and lessen the caster to 3 degrees once I finally get my new larger tires on if it runs down the road well. The main reason I see to do a cut and turn if you don't do a SR is to get the pinion pointed up away from the rocks and a shorter front driveshaft.
If I start tearing up front driveshafts I may consider a cut and turn otherwise no cut and turn here.
Almost forgot a VERY important point. I am running a toybox so I have a VERY long front driveshaft which does not bind on droop like a stock setup can.
I may install some two degree shims and lessen the caster to 3 degrees once I finally get my new larger tires on if it runs down the road well. The main reason I see to do a cut and turn if you don't do a SR is to get the pinion pointed up away from the rocks and a shorter front driveshaft.
If I start tearing up front driveshafts I may consider a cut and turn otherwise no cut and turn here.
Almost forgot a VERY important point. I am running a toybox so I have a VERY long front driveshaft which does not bind on droop like a stock setup can.
dgangle
total rice
A fundamental understanding of steering geometry and the ill-effects certain modifications we do to our trucks dictates it. If you like your truck to steer, track, flat tow and generally handle like s***, not to mention your front dshaft to bind and/or vibrate like hell, don't do it.camcruiser13 said:
dgangle is correct, my truck drives much better after SO. The reason is because increased caster. Don't use laziness to justify your opinion.
- Thread starter
- #8
not going to do a shackle reversale and will also be running a toy box, not a dd either. mostly for camping.
when i did soa last fall i did not cut and turn, wish i had. cant tell if would cause a vibration, I'm running a square front shaft.
mine drives fine going down the road and off road. the only time it freaks me out is when its on a lift and the front end drops down all the way. the drive shaft ears lock up on the yoke ears. cant fell it on the trail
. although it has done some self clearance
Looking back i should have done a cut and turn, just to be on the safe side
some pics
http://www.4x4him.com/rig_strachan.htm
mine drives fine going down the road and off road. the only time it freaks me out is when its on a lift and the front end drops down all the way. the drive shaft ears lock up on the yoke ears. cant fell it on the trail
. although it has done some self clearanceLooking back i should have done a cut and turn, just to be on the safe side
some pics
http://www.4x4him.com/rig_strachan.htm
- Thread starter
- #10
sweet pics, are they both sprung over? thanks for that tid bit, thats what i am wanting to know, experience with no c&t.
dgangle
total rice
Ouch. I would suspect and bet that at some time in your future, you are going to get your truck on a good flex and when the Ujoint binds it is going to break something. Could be a Ujoint, your TC front cone or pinion...none of which are going to be cheap or easy to fix in the middle of no where when you need 4WD the most.weak-link said:
Bustanutley, we've disagreed on some stuff in the past but Ditto on this one!
notice the driveshaft angle compared to the diff angle. Then imagine what this looks like with the left front dropped down a hole, rut, or rock.
c&t is easy.If you have a angle grinder and a torch you can do it.Sorry, had to post.
- Thread starter
- #14
okay, if its so easy why does evryone charge 200+ bucks. is there anyone in utah willing to help me c&t. if so let me know i will bring my axle to you and some beers and dinner.
dgangle
total rice
It's time, man. Time is money. When your working on your own stuff it's a labor of love. Someone else's? Well, it's a job. Now go get out that grinder!camcruiser13 said:
yeah exactly $200 = 2 hours of shop time
oh and dgangle i'm just a punk kid with an engineering degree
that sometimes voices a stronger opinion than should 
I never mean any offence, sorry if I have ever came across that way.
oh and dgangle i'm just a punk kid with an engineering degree
that sometimes voices a stronger opinion than should I never mean any offence, sorry if I have ever came across that way.
- Thread starter
- #17
not so easy
- Thread starter
- #18
gave me some things to think about, thanks all
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I ride with two guys who are SOA, one has a toy box the other a rock box. Neither have C&T. dgangle hit the nail on the head, think about the geometry.
I'm doing a SOA and adding a toy box. Since my t-case output yoke is moving back further than the differential input yoke is moving down the driveline angle (to horizontial) will decrease.
Sounds like you have the same situation.
I'm doing a SOA and adding a toy box. Since my t-case output yoke is moving back further than the differential input yoke is moving down the driveline angle (to horizontial) will decrease.
Sounds like you have the same situation.
I've done 2 C&Ts and both were easy. Didn't need a torch at all. Ginder and and an angle finder. The hardest thing about a C&T is getting the axle out of the rig. There are people who will do a C&T for $100 if you bring them a bare housing. The 2nd one I did with a friend in an afternoon going from axle on the rig to axle back on the rig and ready to run.
Depending on the length of your drivetrain and whether or not you do a SR you can get by without a cut and turn. However, if you are doing a SOA you are probably running bigger tires and would benefit greatly from the increased caster that most people who do a C&T add in during the C&T. Not too mention it gets the end of your diff and driveline higher and more out of the way.
Depending on the length of your drivetrain and whether or not you do a SR you can get by without a cut and turn. However, if you are doing a SOA you are probably running bigger tires and would benefit greatly from the increased caster that most people who do a C&T add in during the C&T. Not too mention it gets the end of your diff and driveline higher and more out of the way.
