Who’s running part time 4wd kit (1 Viewer)

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What are the pros and cons, mileage change?, ease of install, etc.
Looking into going part time just don’t know what kit is the best and the cons.
Thanks guys
 
What are the pros and cons, mileage change?, ease of install, etc.
Looking into going part time just don’t know what kit is the best and the cons.
Thanks guys

This topic has been covered ad nauseum. A quick search will reveal a ton of info!
 
Quick overview-
Mileage change little to none
Install ~4 hours
Zero front drive line vibration at any speed
Tighter turning radius off road
front drive components on turn off road
You need to get out and lock your hubs
 
I haven't seen any sign of a mileage improvement, but I think there are other issues at play there (old cats, short trips, nasty wheel bearings, dragging brakes).

Cons:

* Gotta get out to engage the front hubs.

* Wheel spin when you're trying to pull out into rush hour traffic on wet roads.

* You lose ABS with the front hubs unlocked, unless you also install a tone ring relocation kit.

I wouldn't suggest it unless you have very specific reasons. For example, drive line vibes at high speed, aftermarket Birfields that shouldn't be run full-time time, or a desire to do burnouts.
 
I'll bite.
I did it and would do it again. I live more or less on the front range in CO.
PROS:
-x-country road trip(CO-MA) I hit 18mpg 3x in a row(w/ethanol fuel).
-I'm getting more life out of my factory birfs/front axle with 235k on them....(This was my main reason)
-If theres snow coming down/the potential ill need 4x4, I lock the hubs ahead of time. AWD is overrated as the 4h is no real different than most 4x4 trucks.
-Steering isn't as heavy feeling.
-Maybe has a slight bit more throttle response according to but dyno...In theory it should at least.
-

CONS:
-AVM hubs suck..which I still have for now. May one day I'll be able to afford aisin's.
----> Their hub flange is thin like the early drive flanges(About 0.05" thinner than what the factory drive flange is on my '97 lx) so a second washer is needed over the cone washers before tq'ing down or youll strip the studs.
-----> I had the AVM flange crack on me upon initial install. Had it warrantied out at slee. My guess is the hole was slightly miss-drilled and the only case they had seen.
-Ive never cared for abs so that's what ever..but If I feel like I want it back I can just run with the hubs locked in 2wd.
-You need to press the bearing on the new spool...unless you buy with one already pressed on...I have a press so no big deal for me.
-Opening up a T-case (or any dif for that matter) can be Daunting...Just follow the Slee install guidelines to the T and itll be cake.
 
I did the mod to engage the rear locker anytime so no problem if I need traction in rwd, or as mentioned above lock the hubs and engage the tcase as required.

I didnt move the abs tone rings over to my RCV axles but will do so the next time I open the axle up so that I can still have ABS with the hubs locked.
 
The kit consists of a spool and pair of manual locking hubs. I would strongly suggest using the Aisin hubs instead of the AVM brand hubs. They are just plane sexier and what Toyota’s actually came with.

It was suggested earlier that install takes 4 hours. This may be true if you put your rig on a lift and have done it several times. Otherwise it could take days.........

Also, read up on the need for either new birf’s or machining a new C clip groove into the outer shaft.
 
I have done the install on my 80 series and on our LX470 same tcase, same parts.
The 80 I did sitting on all fours and found it to a perfect working height.
The 100 I put up on four ramps and found myself reaching more than I wanted.
On both install I lowered the tcase with longer bolts for a little more working room.
On the 80 I reused the bearing on the 100 I installed a new bearing prior to starting. The pre installed bearing is the way to go IMO giving you nothing to slow you down. I feel Im more anal than the average garage mechanic. With that said here is the link to basic steps for an easy install.

LOKKA Part Time on a 2006 LX470 - Transfercase spool installation
 
The pre installed bearing is the way to go IMO giving you nothing to slow you down.

Definitely go with the pre-installed bearing unless you already have the bearing and a press! It took me forever just to track down the correct bearing number! Speaking of which, the bearing is Koyo STA6095 or Timken 32012X. The Timken is $30 from RockAuto, so with shipping you're getting awfully close to the ~$50 that Lokka and others charge.
 
Reasons for being against reusing the original bearing? Or just replacing as pm?
The point being that, if you buy the spool with a new bearing pre-installed, you won’t have to mess with removing the bearing from your original center diff and putting it on the spool. These transfer cases can go a very long time before a rebuild as long as they were maintained fairly well.
 
The point being that, if you buy the spool with a new bearing pre-installed, you won’t have to mess with removing the bearing from your original center diff and putting it on the spool. These transfer cases can go a very long time before a rebuild as long as they were maintained fairly well.
Got it. Wasn’t sure if I was missing something more than convienence factor.

I more than likely would have bought it with one installed if I didn’t already have a press. Tracking down a bearing puller to rent was tricky though and the only place I could find one was at HF and it got the job done on the cheap.
 
Got it. Wasn’t sure if I was missing something more than convienence factor.

I more than likely would have bought it with one installed if I didn’t already have a press. Tracking down a bearing puller to rent was tricky though and the only place I could find one was at HF and it got the job done on the cheap.

For most the cost of a large enough bearing splitter in more than a new bearing. With a new bearing installed prior one less thing to go wrong or slow you down.
 
I’m looking into this doing the conversion. With a 1991 do I need different shafts up front? The reason I want to do this that I will be usin it as my daily and driving this a lot for when my family and I travel. Trying to save on costs and making is a bit more friendly. From my research I have seen the 93 and up I believe has the longer shafts and requires spacers. Just concerned that I will get the parts for this kit and the hubs won’t fit on the front end.
 
I’m looking into this doing the conversion. With a 1991 do I need different shafts up front? The reason I want to do this that I will be usin it as my daily and driving this a lot for when my family and I travel. Trying to save on costs and making is a bit more friendly. From my research I have seen the 93 and up I believe has the longer shafts and requires spacers. Just concerned that I will get the parts for this kit and the hubs won’t fit on the front end.

Hub spacer will only work with AVM hub that I would not recommend to anyone. Short birf require no mods for Aisin hubs to work. Do not do part time for fuel saving the pay back if any will be very long
 
Other than fuel will it ever save me money in the long run? Or is the price so minute that it will take years?
 
Other than fuel will it ever save me money in the long run? Or is the price so minute that it will take years?

The only real saving mechanically is the birf, diff, and front DL service:meh: depending on how much you use 4wd.
 
Thanks for the heads up Phil.
 

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