Who is best to rebuild an OEM PS gearbox? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 28, 2005
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Location
Woodstock, GA
I am thinking of getting my factory power steering gearbox rebuilt. I have replaced or rebuilt all of the steering linkage components and still have some play in the steering. I'm thinking that is the last thing I need to get it tightened up.

Can anyone recommend a shop/person to rebuild this thing? Any ideas on the cost of something like that?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
The PS gear box is prety resistant to wear. Make sure that it is actually worn. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and check the end of the sector shaft / pitman arm for sideways wobble as opposed to rotation. If it leaks, it is also a good sign of wear. Your local machine shop will be able to do the repair. It is not difficult.
 
PS Rebuild info

petescoffee said:
MArk at MArks OffRoad
He goes by 65SWB on the board.
He cold rebuild youor steering box for you

Thanks for the info!

I'll check with him.

Any idea of cost? I don't have a clue what that sort of work runs...
 
PS gearbox problems

Pin_Head said:
The PS gear box is prety resistant to wear. Make sure that it is actually worn. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth and check the end of the sector shaft / pitman arm for sideways wobble as opposed to rotation. If it leaks, it is also a good sign of wear. Your local machine shop will be able to do the repair. It is not difficult.

The more I drive it, the more I'm not sure what is actually going on...

What effect would it have on the driving if the preload was set incorrectly? Especially if it was set too light?

What I think I'm feeling is that the vehicle is too easy to turn and does not stay on a straight track because of this. The wheel does not return to center by itslef or does so slowly. Would this be caused by too light preload?

I got this gearbox from someone else and installed it myself, so I don't know what may have been done to it before I got it. Someone may have been trying to compensate for larger tires by messing with the preload adjustment.

Is there an easy way to adjust the preload while the gearbox is on th truck, or do I have to remove it to do that?

Thanks for all the help!
 
Rick '79 FJ40 said:
What I think I'm feeling is that the vehicle is too easy to turn and does not stay on a straight track because of this. The wheel does not return to center by itslef or does so slowly. Would this be caused by too light preload?

!

This is a caster problem. The box could be loose as a goose and if the caster was OK, it would sill track straight. Measure your caster and adjust it with a wedge shaped shim under the spring pad.
 
Steering problem

Pin_Head said:
This is a caster problem. The box could be loose as a goose and if the caster was OK, it would sill track straight. Measure your caster and adjust it with a wedge shaped shim under the spring pad.

That makes sense. I have about a 3 or 4 inch lift on it, I think.

How do I measure the caster? How hard is it to install the shims? Can I do it myself, or do I need a lift and/or several jacks to do it?

Thanks for the help!
 
Use an angle finder with a straight edge on the flat milled top of the knuckle where the steering arm bolts on. You want about 2-3 degrees positive caster where the top of the knuckle is angled back.

Or you could take it to an alignment shop.
 
Caster measurment

Pin_Head said:
Use an angle finder with a straight edge on the flat milled top of the knuckle where the steering arm bolts on. You want about 2-3 degrees positive caster where the top of the knuckle is angled back.

Or you could take it to an alignment shop.

So you want it to be angled like this: \ Back of truck>

Not like this: / Back of truck->

(Does this make any sense?)

I will probably just find an alignment shop...

Thanks!
 
You are correct.

I used a 2.5 degree shim with my 4" lift, returned caster back to at least stock. Drives great now.

Napa has bronze shims- better than the aluminum ones as the bronze will conform to the spring.

You may need a spring pin with a longer head (space it with some small pipe) so that it still fully seats in the spring perch.
 
Rick '79 FJ40 said:
So you want it to be angled like this: \ Back of truck>

Not like this: / Back of truck->

(Does this make any sense?)

I will probably just find an alignment shop...

Thanks!


The top of the knuckle tilted toward the back of the truck, just like a motorcycle front end. Fat end of shim goes to the front.
 

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