who has pressed a new bearing on the slip ring side (back) of the 130 amp alt? (1 Viewer)

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speculate how this happened.

is it as obvious as it looks? bearing not pressed far enough down the shaft, or bearing not seated on the case side all the way, or not pressing the rotor shaft all the way until the bearing sits on the bore lip?

If that's true, then how did I end up with same connecting bolt measurements that hold both haves together. What I didn't do was measure bearing depth on the shaft. I find no spec anywhere on that measurement.
If you press the bearing into the back end case and press the rotor in you run the risk of bottom it out on the fan plate.
The alternator didn't fail, it was just putting out lower and lower. I put in the spare without looking at the slip rings and measuring the new one.

Also, it seems these rings aren't that replaceable. And if you buy a new rotor it doesn't appear to come with the bearing already installed. For this reason alone it doesn't seem logical to buy a new rotor.
Seems like I need practice. or I'm missing something. This should be easy.

slip rings stock.jpg


bad bearing depth..jpg
 
Could the shaft have been pushed thru the rotor slightly during the bearing pressing operation throwing it out of position in relation to the brushes?
 
not according to the pulley end. But I didn't think of the shaft moving.
It really is probably my own ignorance. The bearing sits on top of the slip ring base- far as I can tell. Which can only mean (I think) that I extended the rotor too far. In other words, I compressed the case halves too much.
There's a lot of play in there once you have it all apart.

Also I don't think I will ever take one apart again other than attempt to make a third alt. Doing up the slip rings and back end bearing is almost a waste, unless you have good previous info or other units to compare to. I don't know what it takes to braze or spot weld copper anyway.

I did find out that the newer coil assembly wires that poke through can be soldered to new plates if in fact you order all new insides.
But for 195$ for a rebuilt I don't see the point. Im ordering another to get info and will attempt to redo this one if I can for less than that 195 price tag.

no way would I attempt to replace the slip rings after seeing this.

exposed slip rings.jpg
 
I contemplated it, then after said contemplation I bought a reman Denso. I think I still have the bearing kit if you go that direction.
 
alternators and calipers, just not worth the trouble to rebuild, unless you have no other choice.
 
I agree, but not about the brushes or regulators in these ones. I wholeheartedly think people that rebuild these specific calipers are crazy. But everyone needs a hobby. My today hobby is this stupid rotor, or it was for 12 hours at least.
 
Did you actually purchase new slip rings? If so, where? I wouldnt mind having a set on hand. I'm a sucker for trying to take things apart, Lol.
 
No I didn't buy it. I have faith I could attach the leads but I wonder about longevity.
 
After seeing your post I replaced the rear bearing, soldered in new rectifier, voltage regulator and installed brush holder. Next time around, Ill just get a reman. Thanks for helping me dodge that bullet.
 

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