I've got the front axle on the 76FJ40 apart. I was going to do it myself but I think I'll leave the cut and turn part for a professional. Who out there does this and what do they charge? I'm is SC.
Who does cut and turns? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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I have no idea about you Q
But I like the avatar
But I like the avatar
It isnt that hard. I will be doing mine probably the weekend after next and if you bring your housing we can probably do yours at the same time.
Backing out Marshal. You sounded pretty gung ho before.
ClemsonCruiser
Supporting Vendor
it's becasue he can't use his hands and feet at the same time like other talented wrenchers.......
- Thread starter
- #8
71-CRUISER said:
You tell me when and where and I'll bring the beer. Should I go ahead and cut the steering stops and shock mounts off?
And I don't have a clue as far as angles. SO I hope you got some sort of idea.
- Thread starter
- #9
ClemsonCruiser said:
You asked for it. Monkey Boy.
ClemsonCruiser
Supporting Vendor
and I thank you.......
Trollhole said:
You can cut the mounts off if you want but it only takes a few minutes if you don't. If you have a welder we can cut and turn them and put them about where they will go and you can fine tune it once you get the housing back under the truck and do the final welding. I would sugest that we do it that way because you already have your SOA done so we cant move the perches without cuting them off but either way new perches are only $12.
- Thread starter
- #12
I don't have anything big enough to cut the perches off with. So I guess I'll bring the thing whole and see where we can get. I'll bring new perches with me. But what you are saying is I cannot weld them on untill I ve got the axle bolted up under the frontend and have everything aligned. Right?
In order to figure out where the knuckles/ perches need to go the housing needs to be under the truck. Basicly you set the perches on unwelded and rotate the housing so the pinion points where you want it to (t-case). Once that is determined then you can set the angle of the knuckles in relation to flat (+5*ish) and weld everytinh back up.
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dgangle
total rice
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=45296
Search strikes again!
No really, Jerimiah (sp?) Profit talked me into doing my own. It really isn't that hard, just time consuming. I would agree that having the axle mounted in the truck with the weight on it is the only way to do it. Additionally, there are many factors that may be different in your set up. The only way to get it exact for your truck is to do it in the truck otherwise you are going to get what someone else thinks is best for you. Unless you pay someone to do it IN your truck, of course. If you can bolt/unbolt, have a 4" angle grinder, oxy/acyt torches and a welder and a place (ie conrete floor) to work you can do it.
Search strikes again!
No really, Jerimiah (sp?) Profit talked me into doing my own. It really isn't that hard, just time consuming. I would agree that having the axle mounted in the truck with the weight on it is the only way to do it. Additionally, there are many factors that may be different in your set up. The only way to get it exact for your truck is to do it in the truck otherwise you are going to get what someone else thinks is best for you. Unless you pay someone to do it IN your truck, of course. If you can bolt/unbolt, have a 4" angle grinder, oxy/acyt torches and a welder and a place (ie conrete floor) to work you can do it.
- Thread starter
- #15
So if I put the housing back on the cruiser and put the weight back on the housing and measure the agle on top of the knuckle bearing races. This would give me the correct angle I need to be at? right? The take it off grind and get the knuckles cut. Then put it back on turning pinion to be straight with front driveshaft, weld perches and then turn knuckles back to my original angle I would be good to go? Of couse having put the ubolts back on and welding the knuckle.
I've read all the tech section twice. I'm sure it's easier than I'm perceiving it.
I've read all the tech section twice. I'm sure it's easier than I'm perceiving it.
Trollhole said:
This should be about +5*
Corrected it should be +
Trollhole said:
Now your getting it.
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dgangle
total rice
Exactly. the hardest part of the whole deal I found, besides putting the housing in and out 15X is getting an accurate caster angle measurement across the top of the trunion bearing races. Because of the camper built into the knuckle it can give you inaccurate readings depending on getting the angle finder perpendicular tot he axle housing itself. Harder to describe than to do, if you know what I mean. Also it's 3-6* POSITIVE caster. Think of the dubious shopping cart wheel how it leans back always finding the straight ahead position as you push the cart forward. I went with +5* and it steers, tracks and flat tows wonderfully. The angle finder also works great in determining the relationship between the driveshaft (tube) angle and the pinion flange (or the surface on the housing that the third member bolts to). I did not make these perpendicular but allowed 2-4* for the upward travel of the front suspension bringing the angle to 90*. Grap those torches!Trollhole said:
dgangle
total rice
Here's another current thread on this in case you missed it. Good links explaining caster.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30364
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=30364
Pictures to help. I got bored last night so i went ahead and cut mine.
1: Point pinion at t-case
2: cut knuckles
3: rotate to 5* caster
1: Point pinion at t-case
2: cut knuckles
3: rotate to 5* caster
- Thread starter
- #20
A picture says a thousand words. Now I understand. was the 5 degrees the original stock position? And what did you use to cut it with? And did you use heat to turn the knuckles? Did it mess up the bearing races.
