Which wires for hatch release? (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I was thinking about adding a momentary switch to release the rear hatch for when I occasionally sleep inside on a solo trip. I know Cruiser Outfitters sells (or once sold) a plug and play kit, but the switch goes in the same place I have my LED lights now and I don’t want to sacrifice them. I want to throw in a discreet momentary switch to unlatch it. Has anyone done this DIY and would be willing to share which wires I’d want to bridge with my switch?

 

[RET2]

Couldn't you drop the existing exterior switch to gather that info?

 

[CharlieS]

Good idea. I’ll do that if I don’t get any tips.

 

[CharlieS]

Three wires (red, white and blue).

Only requires removal of two T30 screws

Continuity between white and blue when the unlatch button is pressed. Continuity between white and red when lock button is pressed.

I think this means I should jumper white and blue with my normally open momentary switch.

 

[CharlieS]

I can confirm that this works.

 

[CharlieS]

Completed. One free mod.

 

[kcjaz]

Hey Charlie, is the red button the latch momentary switch and the other for the light?

 

[CharlieS]

Hey Charlie, is the red button the latch momentary switch and the other for the light?

Yes, correct. I should have labeled them, but it was a quick and dirty project the day before a trip. I figured it would be cheaper and easier to replace the little hatch panel than the big trim panel if it didn’t work out. I may buy the official switch and hook it up to that, if the spirit moves me. I’d probably locate it in a different spot. The red switch is some piece of junk from my spare electrical parts drawer that happened to be convenient.

 

[TeCKis300]

Any concern that luggage in the rear could accidently depress the momentary switch?

 

[CharlieS]

It is entirely possible, but I’m not concerned about it. Now that you’ve raised this, I’ll think about how I might refactor it.

BTW, it worked well for the intended purpose of unlatching the door when sleeping inside.

 

[TeCKis300]

If I recall, some where using a pull down handle to act as a safety for the switch? There's some flush mount flat top switches on Amazon that may be harder to accidently depress?

Amazon product ASIN B07R3R95H9

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks!

 

[kcjaz]

Yes, correct. I should have labeled them, but it was a quick and dirty project the day before a trip. I figured it would be cheaper and easier to replace the little hatch panel than the big trim panel if it didn’t work out. I may buy the official switch and hook it up to that, if the spirit moves me. I’d probably locate it in a different spot. The red switch is some piece of junk from my spare electrical parts drawer that happened to be convenient.

I wonder about something accidentally hitting the button. Probably not much of a big concern as its not like, even if that did happen, the hatch would just fly open. A "rocket launch" button would be kinda fun and take care of this.

Amazon product ASIN B079S6JMVW
Or maybe a giant red panic button on the ceiling so that if you ever rolled, something would fall on the button and automatically open your hatch...

 

[CharlieS]

I found this for $10 on eBay. I think I’ll try it. I may install one of my spare grab handles removed from the third row as a partial barrier. Thanks for the idea!

 

[wingshooter8800]

Completed. One free mod.

View attachment 2693433

@CharlieS where did you pull power for the light? The last time i looked at this mod it was plug and play for 18+

 

[CharlieS]

@CharlieS where did you pull power for the light? The last time i looked at this mod it was plug and play for 18+

I have a ‘16, so no good 12v + options in the tailgate, as far as I know. I ran rear power from my auxiliary battery to the cargo area, where I have a blue sea fuse box. I ran the wires from the fuse box, up into the headliner, through the factory grommet to the upper hatch, and down to the LED light.

The hatch release doesn’t need external power - you just bridge the blue and white wires with a momentary switch.

 

[wingshooter8800]

I have a ‘16, so no good 12v + options in the tailgate, as far as I know. I ran rear power from my auxiliary battery to the cargo area, where I have a blue sea fuse box. I ran the wires from the fuse box, up into the headliner, through the factory grommet to the upper hatch, and down to the LED light.

Ugh....i was afraid you would say that. I am not very experienced with auto wiring. House yes, car no. Thought maybe you had discovered an easier way, LOL. I will stick with my battery LED stick on. I am however going to tackle the Redarc Brake Controller soon, looks fairly straight forward. Thanks for your reply!

 

[CharlieS]

I wired a previous one to the overhead cargo area light, and it worked. The downside is that it times out and turns off after some time (15 min?), which wasn’t what I needed, since I use it when camping and often keep it on longer.

 

[CharlieS]

It finally got warm enough again to be out in the garage, so I cleaned up my installation.

I used the $10 ebay switch, a replacement panel ($11), one of the folding handles I removed from my third row, and some hardware and washers I already had in the shop.

All I did with the handles was use some nippers and a razor knife to trim anything that would protrude from the back (or interfere with the bolt head inside the trim covers).

 

[bloc]

Good stuff. Adding this to the list.

Does the light only do white or red also? And what brand/model?