Which tools to remove cone washers?? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Kernal
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Try a little heat and then beat
15 sec for all 6
Leave the nuts on the very end of the studs to protect the studs and keep the cone washers from flying off. Hit the studs with a whack from a BFH or even better a brass hammer. They will pop out.
Flank
American by Birth, Texan by the grace of God.
Smack the studs each with a 2lb hammer - lightly at first, then harder as needed. The little suckers just pop off.
I'll second (or third, or fourth) heat and a brass hammer. About 30 seconds per side to get them all out the second time.
The first time took a few hours lol.
The first time took a few hours lol.
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X2, done.
You can also hit the side of the hub where the drive flange meets. This works well if pounding the studs isn't working.
rusty_tlc
Dain Bramaged Member
I use a small screwdriver but it's the same principal.
I also have copper hammer that works well, no need to leave the nuts on just tap the stud, the copper won't hurt the threads and the threads don't get distorted as can happen when you whack on the nut with a steel hammer.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for all the suggestions/reminders; didn't try smacking the ends of the studs, tried a screwdriver into the slots but that didn't work, didn't try anything sharper like a chisel and don't have any air tools; think it's time to buy some chisels and a compressor. Ended up smacking each washer from opposite sides with a screwdriver and hammer, they all finally came out, but all together I spent about an hour trying to get those suckers off. Was doing all this to tighten up the wheel bearings and once I got the drive flange off I found the inner spindle nut to be hand loose so starting another thread about that with photos.
The main reason to leave the nuts on the stud is to keep the cone washers from shooting across the garage, yard, whatever, when they do let loose.
They do shoot off, had to clean out my whole garage to find a couple of those suckers to finish putting my junk back together
It took me a while to figure this out (I'm slow sometimes) - everyone says to hit it with a hammer, I was hitting straight down on the end on the stud, but what you want to do is to hit perpendicular to the stud, which moves the stud side-to-side, and they pop right out. I have a big brass drift I use - works great.
spdwaver
Formerly Kalifornistanian
I would strongly advise that you DO NOT hit the studs with anything. Ever.
EDIT 2: I would advise hitting the flange, not the studs.
EDIT: I should add, "This is just my opinion".
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I would strongly advise that you read the FSM you pimp in your sig line.
SA-7 to be specific...available free on this forum by BirfMark
- Thread starter
- #18
Seems like there could be some sort of tool that would compress them and then pull them off, like a mini-hydraulic puller? That will be my next project, not. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now on to the wheel bearing thread.
spdwaver
Formerly Kalifornistanian
Again, just my opinion. Tapping on the flange works just as well, without the chance of damaging threads or bending studs.
EDIT: You're right, but if we're getting all specific, the page you are referring to is SA-8. At least, in the copy of the FSM that I paid for from TIS, it is on SA-8.
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