1964-1967-too much money to upgrade- but good metal --skip
1968-69 cross over years --skip
1969-1970 still no brake booster easy fit (w/ stock engine) --skip
1971-1972, better buy. good metal, bad drivetrain, power brakes.
1973-1975 think smog ('73 better), no disks but easy fix. '73's and some '74's have 3sp (farm & ranch tranny), good metal. 74-75 have ambulance doors, 75's later doors and windshield frames
1976-1977 good buy, disk brakes
1978's best year?
1979-1980 may get factory PS, a/c rust like crazy from here on out. bad smog
1981-82's still bad smog, but parts is FJ60. running gear is fj60...you also get cool steering wheel, collapsible steering column, 999,999 odometer, rear axle ebrake, split transfer case, easier drop in 5 speed, but rust rust rust
1983's- for average $5,000 extra you get:
bolt in dash, steering column lock, and 95% of trim "1983 parts" discontinued (I don't believe the hype)
notes to remember.
the tub is the truck. sheet metal is everything.
BAD:
bottom mount wiper windshield frames are becoming very rare 1975+, 1975+ front and rear doors becoming rare in good shape, hood spear on E-1971 are rare in good shape, dutch doors e-1974 are becoming rare, drop down gates are very rare (factory), E-1974 doors stess crack, E-1967 indi wiper motors rare...
GOOD:
1969+ you can pretty much add disk brakes without thinking
fuel tanks can still be bought new for just over $200 (up to '78 models)
1968-1974 windshield frames are available used
Toyota hub caps are under $80 a set o 5
Toyota fenders can still be bought (1978+)
Toyota hoods can still be bought ($560 list)
Toyota Bibs (headlight metal) can still be bought ($250-$350)
Toyota aprons, steps, bumperettes, even the little front bumper triangle plates can be found new.
Lights (good ones) can be bought aftermarket or cheaply from dealer
etc.