Which method did you use when re-installing (sealing) a differential to the axle housing? (1 Viewer)

What did you use when installing your differential carrier to the axle housing?

  • OEM Gasket Dry

    Votes: 8 21.6%
  • OEM Gasket with gasket dressing (Eg: Permatex High Tack, LOCTITE MR GS2, ---)

    Votes: 7 18.9%
  • Toyota Seal Packing 1281 (Orange FIPG/RTV)

    Votes: 17 45.9%
  • Permatex Ultra Grey RTV

    Votes: 6 16.2%
  • Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker RTV

    Votes: 4 10.8%
  • Hondabond (HT or 4) , Yamabond 4

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Loctite 5699 RTV

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • JB Weld High Temp RED ETV

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other Threebond product

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Silk thread with a liquid sealant

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    37

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More like 26 pounds but yeah that's not much. The front uses 8mm fasteners and the rear uses 10mm. Sake may have played a roll in fastener selection. :hmm:
Yeah, that was it, 26. I once bumped that up to 30 while cringing when using a paper gasket, and all I got for it was deformed flange holes and another loose paper gasket. The rear is 71 ft/lbs, and doesn't seem to have issues like the front does, but I use RTV on it too because I've proven to myself that it's the superior method. I love Landcruisers because they are overbuilt, but that one particular aspect is just adequate for stock vehicles that aren't flogged.
 
I use the OEM gasket because I think it helps make up for irregularities in the Mating services
I apply a small amount of black RTV because I don’t want it to leak.
This has worked well for me currently no leaks been a year and a half since it was last apart.
Before I trussed the axle housing nothing would keep the third from come lose.
Gives you a idea of how hard I use my rig.
It’s a street legal hard core trail rig 😉
To be more clear the rear has never leaked or come lose. It’s been 8 years sense I regeared it.
The front Diff hardware would come lose in the past and Would allow leakage.
IMHO big tires and hard rock crawling causes the axle to flex loosening the wimpy hardware on the front diff.
After I install a truss to the front axle housing the hardware has never come lose again.
It was over 4 years ago that I installed the truss.
 
Front & Rear diffs - no gasket and Toyota 1281 FIPG (orange).
 
Counterpoint to going "commando" and omitting the gasket.

The gasket thickness plays a part in component alignment. Omitting the gasket changes component interface. Not much but it DOES affect it. Does it matter? Maybe.

I'd assert more like probably. Toyota uses liquid sealer in lots of places but not all of them. Therefore gaskets must serve multiple purposes in the cases where they are specified.
It might, but in the 20+ years of "extreme" wheeling I've been doing in Toyota trucks, 4Runners and now my 80 I've never had an issue..
I'll stick to going "commando". 🤘

I do appreciate the advice though.
 
I moved to using Permatex Right Stuff on the front housing after a couple failures of a gasket. I surmised that the bigger tires (37-40") on the two different rigs stressed the housing enough that with a fixed gasket the flexing caused the gasket to leak. After moving to the Right Stuff leaks went away. Still use a gasket on the rear housing though without issue.
 
A possible cause of the front diff working loose is the fact that flat washers are used on the front diff studs instead of lock washers. 4WD mini trucks also used 8mm studs on both diffs and those don't seem to be a problem... They use split lock washers. I switched to the truck lock washers.
 
Bumping this as the Poll has been amended slightly; if you had either of your 80 series differentials serviced (removed, reinstalled, resealed) by a mechanic/other person and you know what method was used (Black/Orange/Grey FIPG/RTV or Gasket) then take the poll and post a comment.

Purpose of the thread and poll is to see what works and what modifications may be needed (lock washers or trusses as already mentioned for example) based on the real world experiences of the 80 Series Forum.


ps: if you take the poll and don't post a comment your account will be frozen for 10 days or until you make the required post.o_O
 
I just bought the paper gaskets. I’m not sure which route to go now. Well, probably paper gasket with some FIPG.
 
More like 26 pounds but yeah that's not much. The front uses 8mm fasteners and the rear uses 10mm. Sake may have played a roll in fastener selection. :hmm:
Where are you getting 26 from? My 94 FSM says 18 ft. Lbs. for the front diff nuts.
 
Straight from the book

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I just bought the paper gaskets. I’m not sure which route to go now. Well, probably paper gasket with some FIPG.
Skip the paper gasket and just go with fipg. Why would you put two types of mustard on the same sandwich???
 
Skip the paper gasket and just go with fipg. Why would you put two types of mustard on the same sandwich???
You quoting me from over a year ago? I don’t know what I did yesterday man. Take it easy on me ;)

And I like to mix mustards, what of it?
 
Footnote...
I had to pull my front diff last summer because of a broken gasket. The new factory gasket is a steel shim with fiber faces bonded to it, kinda like the oil drain plug gasket but the steel shim is much thinner. That will solve the cracking seen with previous versions. I installed it with a coating of Gasgacinch on all 4 surfaces.
 
Footnote...
I had to pull my front diff last summer because of a broken gasket. The new factory gasket is a steel shim with fiber faces bonded to it, kinda the oil drain plug gasket but the steel shim is much thinner. That will solve the cracking seen with previous versions. I installed it with a coating of Gasgacinch on all 4 surfaces.

That seems like a better design. I've had good luck for certain parts over the years using Gasgacinch on one side of a paper gasket surface and the tackiest grease I can find on the other. The gasket stays semi-permanently bounded to the cover side and comes off the other nice and easy so it can be reused.
I don't think it would necessarily be a good plan on a diff cover, but maybe gasgacinch on the cover side and fipg/super gray/whatever on the housing side.

You quoting me from over a year ago? I don’t know what I did yesterday man. Take it easy on me ;)

And I like to mix mustards, what of it?
Sweet hot and dijon at the same time? I'm in!
 
"the new factory gasket is a steel shim with fiber faces bonded to it"

That's interesting. Do we assume that it's designed to be installed by itself (dry)?

Sounds somewhat similar to the LubeLocker gasket (which isn't available for the 80 Series last time I checked) discussed on page 1.

Good to know.
 

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