which liner is champ? (1 Viewer)

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ive searched, read the few articles in the tech archives...now i just want to ask which liner wins in terms of function and ease of application....right now i am leanign towards herculiner since its somewhat inexpensive, looks good appearntly last a long time and is really easy to apply according to this
http://www.jillandneil.com/fj/herculiner.htm
i have a feeling all the different brand names are almost the same with minor differences in formula and prep...so should i go with the herc or is there an easier/better way?
 
pretty much the same as herc, but i have personal experience.

durabak. i like it a lot. did the entire interior of my 40 with abt 3/4 gallon.

www.nonslipcoating.com (i think)


get clemsoncruiser to post on here, he just did his whole 40 a couple weeks ago.


malphrus
 
Any roll on liner is about the same, its a poly base. I used herc for my 71, and have no complaints, its very durable, screw the rhinoliner guys that charge you big bucks. The key to any bedliner material is a clean surface, and it will perform as tough as nails.
 
Mancinator,
There has been a few discussions around this topic. Search for "bed liner" as a phrase and you should find something in the last year. Below is my experience/opinion about it.... Keep in mind that you will hear a lot of opinions - everyone has a different experience. Mine tells me that the 2 part stuff is the best for your money, and plan on a lot of time in prep.



"I had put a new floor pan in my FJ40 and certainly wanted to protect it the best I could. Here's a brief summary of what I learned:

- Prep is most important. Sandblasting is good. Rust conversion products (POR does not have me convinced). Remove mill scale from new metal before coating (phosphoric acid works well).

- 2 part coatings are usually better than single stage products.

- Primer is usually matched to a top coat. 2 part primers are better than single stage primers.

Herculiner: single stage component.
SEM, Gator Guard, etc.: 2 part epoxy's. Use a Shutz applicator ($20), lays on a thick layer.
Line-X: High heat application, special equiptment needed

I have personally used PPG LIC-904 industrial primer followed by SEM truck bed liner kit (2 part exoxy urethane. 1 gallon got me 4 coats on the floor... very thick (3/16"). Been very happy. 2 part epoxy coatings are usually $100.

Info on epoxy coatings - there is a "time to recoat" window that you must follow, or you will have to scuff up the surface before recoating. Coating inside the window allows for both CHEMICAL and MECHANICAL adhesion. This is a very important consideration - you must allow yourself time to complete the steps. Don't prime one weekend and then top coat on the next!!!

Adhesion is what you are looking for in a good coating.

Plan to spend about $150-$200 to get good results. I'd worry if you tried to do it any cheaper.

A Shutz gun is great for getting the coating to completely cover all surfaces and corners.

Good luck."
 
I've got Durabak on the inside and out of my cruiser. Looks great and I love it.

Chris
 
TonkaC, how much Durabak did you need to do your FJ40? I have a '75 and have lately been thinking of doing an in&out Durabak job. Nice pics btw.
 
black covered much better than the yellow. Used 1 gallon for the inside and under, 2 gallons for all the yellow on the outside. Have a quart set aside to do the touch ups that I note on my side.

Hope this helps, Chris
 
I heard about a liner by 3M call Rocker Schutz Coating #08874. This appears to might work for around the wheel wells. Any thoughts on the 3M product?
Thanks, John Fischer
 
AVOID HERCULINER at all cost. Worst stuff ever. I even put the extra UV protective coating on mine on the cj8, and the stuff has basically evaporated in the sun, and you can see the paint coming through now. It adhered well, is very tough but does not hold up to the sun, and is very very rough.

For my fj40 I am going with Monstaliner. Read a lot of positive reviews on it, and they had a color that almost matched my paint. I was going to go with Durabak, but Monstaliner had a sample color I liked better. I went without the granules in mine, did not want to risk it being as rough as the herculiner.
 
I did mine with @monstaliner and i love it. it can be rolled or sprayed. it is basically a 3 part epoxy. the paint the tint and the hardener. once it is cured it literally becomes tough as nails
 
On my 40 I stick with paint so I haven’t used any bed liner products on it, but I have used Herculiner and Raptor Liner on the beds of my two most recent work trucks.

With the Herculiner I can echo what @cjgoode said. It looked good for a year then about 2-3 years in I could see paint through it and it had faded quite a bit. It was also very rough. It was fairly durable for roll on stuff though and was pretty non slip. At 5 years I’d have redone it if the truck wasn’t getting replaced.

The Raptor Liner I did in my current work truck I’ve only had for 6 months or so but so far it has a nicer appearance and texture but scuffs very badly and in a few spots tools and equipment vibrating and shifting have rubbed spots down to the metal of the bed. Without adding the anti slip texture stuff (sand I assume) they sell separately it’s just a little bit less slippery than regular paint. It was easy to spray though.

Prep work was the same, maybe a little more taping / covering with the Raptor due to spraying it. I’d consider both more as a textured paint vs a thick liner product like line x. So far I’m not sure which is the better product but I’d probably use the Raptor on the inside of a 40 tub if I was going to use one of them.
 
I am happy with my Herculiner application, prep is the key, ref below post

 

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