which diff studs are supposed to be the long ones?

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AaKnight

AaKnight

10 Year
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Threads
66
Messages
297
Location
Coweta, OK
Can someone please confirm for me which studs are supposed to be the 2 long ones on a 95 fzj80 unlocked front axle? I forgot to note it down and im second guessing myself, because I got them on the drivers side and they look almost too long there.
 
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Passenger side, where the actuator is.

retrofitted axle.. but the actuator location is the same:
housing7.jpg
 
inkpot said:
Can you just look at the housing for the thicker lugs in the casting?
Click to expand...
ive already got the thing in and the axles in and wheels on. was looking at it and said, huh.... that dont look right. so i wanted to try to fix it before i filled it.


Bloc, Im unlocked, no actuator. does that matter.
 
Been awhile since I did my conversion on a FR axle shell - seems like one of the long ones was the one where you drilled an additional hole & tapped the threads.

From memory, it's the upper long stud in above pic that is the one you drill / tap for - and for ease ofgetting that 3rd member on that stud's hole needs to be a perpedicular as you can get it (carpenter square across flange face when blocked up & ready to drill on a drill press).

Where in all the process are you? There are more studs on a locker axle shell than a unlocked one, out back the studs just change length (4 IIRC, 2 ea of 2 diff lengths).

Does that answer your q?
 
Im just reinstalling the stock open diff after getting new pinion bearings put in. nothing cool like a conversion just yet haha.. got my hands full enough with this.
 
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Longer studs now won't do you any good if running an open diff 3rd member - unless you have just used all-thread instead of buying the Toy studs.

I say thinking that the OE studs have some uncut area in the middle, unless you are using little lengths of pipe as extreme washers. But I could be talking out my butt, just seems like OE studs aren't threaded the full length like a chunk of all-thread.

I know some rear studs weren't full threaded, so 95% you can't run the longer thread studs with a open diff 3rd.
 
Linus, on the UNLOCKED 80, 2 of the 10 studs come stock with a slightly longer length. I made a mistake and rushed when I was putting it back together and forgot to pay attention. I'm now trying to fix it hoping i won't have to redo the job when I get leaks. My front is not modded, just trying to replace things back to stock spec after overhauling the bearings.
 
Are you just trying to prep your shell for an eventual e-locked 3rd member swap?

Is that the situation?

If so that pic above posted is the right orientation for the long studs if looking at it as if installed to your lower arms.

A easy way to locate the hole to drill / place to grind metal/add metal for new flange is to buy the gasket & use as a template.
 
Oh, ok - NM last post.

Once I saw the pic of the e-lock converted shell my mind went right to e-lockers & nowhere else.

My bad, you're right about the med length studs for a unlocked 3rd.
 
Linus, sorry to confuse ya brother, but im not drilling or a converting anything, im putting it back just the way Mr. T made it. I simply removed it to press in new pinion and carrier bearings and am putting it back. I didnt even regear it. On removal, ALL the studs came out with the nuts seized to them, so now i think ive got them in the wrong spot. I dint realize the stud length difference until I went to order new hardware and was asked which size. to which i replied "damn good question"
 
Also for the small studs bolting the 3rd member in, I have a couple of studs which are slightly longer and have a wider unthreaded section. I did not take note when I spun them off. Anyone know?

image.webp
 
ceylonfj40nut said:
Also for the small studs bolting the 3rd member in, I have a couple of studs which are slightly longer and have a wider unthreaded section. I did not take note when I spun them off. Anyone know?

View attachment 3265125
Click to expand...

Same answer as before, look at the third member casting, you'll be able to see where the the longer studs are needed for where the thicker casting is
 
Yep. Casting is thicker. Locked 3rd on locked housing. Second bolt hole out from locker bolt on either side is where they go.
 
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