Which Bolt on Sliders for my 2015 ? And why ? (1 Viewer)

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Eagle, Idaho
Just removed running boards, now onto sliders. Lots of choices out there and prices vary greatly. Opinions please and a pic would be very helpful too? I don't wheel just very civilized forest roads etc. Thanks
 
they suck unless you need them - true story ha

If you don't wheel, don't need heavy damage control... I suggest you look at Dissent aluminum sliders. not listed on his site, make a phone call to learn more. 100% made in the USA! I'm assuming there's a weight savings so your rig wont be taxed as much hauling around "armor" you wont benefit from.
 
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Leave the running boards on or run naked. I wheeled my 80 series in Moab several times with no sliders and survived. Did ding one side one time but it wasn't too bad.

I have Slee on mine. They were a.project to install but they work well. I have landed on them a time or two in Moab with no damage to vehicle.
 
I’m not aware of any sliders that are easy to install on a 200. The BudBuilt sliders are bolt on, but don’t think that makes it an easy install. It took my mechanic 8 hours to install them, and he has a lift and a helper.
 
Love my BudBuilts, but as stated they are heavy and cost $400 just to get installed. But I wouldn’t want anything else due to the protection they provide.

Here is the only pic i really have showing them on my 2015.

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Several to choose from, but I have been happy with the MetalTech’s. They are really solid. Would not characterize the install as easy. My experience detailed here:

 
Love my BudBuilts, but as stated they are heavy and cost $400 just to get installed. But I wouldn’t want anything else due to the protection they provide.

No question, they are stout. I haven't banged them on a rock, but I have no doubt that they will hold up.
 
BudBuilt on mine as well. I would rather do it once and get the beefiest. Im very happy even if they are overkill for some situations . When I was originally shopping for mine I really thought I’d hardly ever use them. Flash forward 2 years and I’ve hit them hard countless times.I agree not a easy install, but they are 100% bolt on. The mounting plate runs the entire length of frame rails which is much is beyond stout.

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Metal-tech 4x4 Sliders!


Ok as the guy the designed and owns the company that builds them I am a bit bias. And yes due to what Toyota gave us to work with on the frame rails it makes for some work to install any proper slider to hold the weight of the 200!

Here are the guys on The Fast Lane Truck talking about the Metal-tech 4x4 sliders on their recent 200 build in Colorado.

 
I went with Bud Built step sliders with diamond fill plate and kick out w/matte industrial powder coat, DOM USA made steel. I installed them by myself in the garage with no lift and just a floor jack and they took a few hours each to install but I would expect that from any structure that is an extension of the frame. I wanted a slider that had the structural integrity tested by an experienced rock crawler, Taco2Cruiser. If was worried about weight I suppose I could start bringing beer in cans rather than bottles.

I destroyed my OEM running boards on my first trail ride out with 406Cruisers just visiting an old mining claim. (wait for a spotter...)
Sliders should be your first add on after better tires for safety.
 
Metaltech4x4 I just went to order your sliders. Cool product, but when shipping is over $400 (40+/- % of the product cost), it is a deal killer.
 
Metaltech4x4 I just went to order your sliders. Cool product, but when shipping is over $400 (40+/- % of the product cost), it is a deal killer.
Metal tech runs a black Friday special, every year. not sure if the sliders are in that offering. you can save up to 15-20% off - @helocat are the sliders included in the black Friday deal?
thanks
 
IMHO, to give you a visual, this is where BudBuilt has a big edge on the competition. The solid 1 piece mounting plate stretching the whole length of the frame rail. Also, it has, count them...7 cross supports. Compare this to something like the Metlatech that has only 2 small cross supports and 2 small points of contact with the frame. I'm sure Metaltech or any of the other major players are tested to handle the weight of this truck, but i just really like the mounting design that BudBuilt went with better. The full length frame mount is also what makes the install a pain, as all the KDSS stuff needs to be moved out, so the BudBuilt plate can slide behind, and then re-attached back outiside the plate. This is the reason also though they don't require any drilling, since it's the full length they could match up with existing frame holes. Everybody else's aprpoach is to make 2-3 small mounting plates, avoid the KDSS, and just drill holes. Like i said, any of the major players I'm sure are fine, just thought I'd show a visual where they are different with Bud.

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Yup, one of the main reasons I went with Budbuilt was the no drilling/nutsert approach
 
Obviously we are partial to ours as well. Ours have a 90 degree flange part way where fitment allows. Having a 90 degree flange that graps the bottom of the rail transfers any upward hit to the slider into a shear plane on the bottom of the frame as well as the side of the frame, thus not requiring that heavy of a gauge of metal. Having 3 legs per side has proven to be enough on sliders for 80's 100's and 200's and we have never felt the need fore more. All these legs have vertical gussets to strengthen the leg and also transfer load to a larger area of the frame flange.

Yes, we use rivetnuts when no threaded holes are available. One of the reasons we do that vs. through bolts is that when going through the frame, if you are not able to install a crush tube in the frame, you run the risk of squeezing the frame and actually compress it. We have not found any of the spots that would allow us to use through bolts with crush tubes without enlarging the holes. The compression of the frame can happen at install or when the slider takes a huge hit and the pulling force of the bolt is transferred to the bolt / nut on the inside of the frame. A single plane flange relies on those bolts to transfer the load to the frame, vs a L shaped flange that grabs the frame in two directions.

Where possible, we also use stick nuts (nuts welded to sticks to insert into the frame) so that we can get a fastener on the inside of the frame. The only locations that allow for that is where the frame has large enough holes that we can insert the stick nuts.

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Metaltech4x4 I just went to order your sliders. Cool product, but when shipping is over $400 (40+/- % of the product cost), it is a deal killer.

Agreed shipping is steep but its a real-time quote for the actual cost to ship them. Since these are powder coated and finished they have to be properly packaged so they show up clean and ready to go. They go truck freight and since they are built for hard use, they are not lightweight and to fit the 200, BIG.

If we made a non-powder coated option we might be able to get the shipping cost down.

Metal tech runs a black Friday special, every year. not sure if the sliders are in that offering. you can save up to 15-20% off - @helocat are the sliders included in the black Friday deal?
thanks


Last year all non powder-coated sliders were. Not sure on this yr yet. We announce the official CM sale items about a week before Thanksgiving. HOWEVER, know Metal-tech 4x4 year-round has a published 30 day price guarantee. IF we or anyone else put the same product on sale we refund the difference.

IMHO, to give you a visual, this is where BudBuilt has a big edge on the competition. The solid 1 piece mounting plate stretching the whole length of the frame rail. Also, it has, count them...7 cross supports. Compare this to something like the Metlatech that has only 2 small cross supports and 2 small points of contact with the frame. I'm sure Metaltech or any of the other major players are tested to handle the weight of this truck, but i just really like the mounting design that BudBuilt went with better. The full length frame mount is also what makes the install a pain, as all the KDSS stuff needs to be moved out, so the BudBuilt plate can slide behind, and then re-attached back outiside the plate. This is the reason also though they don't require any drilling, since it's the full length they could match up with existing frame holes. Everybody else's aprpoach is to make 2-3 small mounting plates, avoid the KDSS, and just drill holes. Like i said, any of the major players I'm sure are fine, just thought I'd show a visual where they are different with Bud.



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Bud is a great guy and I consider him a friend. We are all going to skin a cat different ways.

Like all of MT4x4 parts we fully 3D engenier these and run Finite Element Analysis (FEA) on our designs for maximum performance. We opted for custom 3/16 slider main bodies CNC formed with 4 bends facing outward for strength, vrs. off the shelf box tube. The powder-coated open inner channel is then braced like an aircraft wing for maximum strength to weight. For the mounting legs, we use two oversized CNC bent feet (frame mounts) that hold the full hight of the massive 200 frame rail so we distribute the load near the top and the bottom (this is key) of the frame rail, not into the middle where the rail is the weakest. (Center of the box is the weakest away from the edges of the box. ) . We also go under the frame rail for the maximum mechanical lock (its an "L") for when the sliders are loaded (on rocks) on the truck. The power of the mounting feet is immense in distributing the load into the strongest parts of the frame. (like the front foot capturing Toyotas bend in the frame, we grab all three planes) 2 properly engineered legs with properly engineered mounting feet perform perfectly and allow clearance for OEM frame-mounted parts. 200's are beasts as you all know, sliders have to also be in the main bodies, the DOM-SRA tubing used and how the properly grip the frame.
 
Do we need a 200 series slider shoot out ?
 
Whichever brand you select they do make tight turns easier....
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