I'd like to have a FSM for my daughter's 3rd gen as well and so far, haven't found a free PDF download yet.
A few places to shop for parts for you:The fuel leak has been fixed actually, I had to buy another gas tank from a junk yard 3-4 hours away one trip. I also replaced the fuel pump and filter. In terms of the knuckle kits, I am buying a kit from cruiser outfitters. And yeah I am kinda worried about the rusting on the nuts/bolts, etc. So far I've done the following:
This month I am doing
- Spark plugs
- Hood locking mechanism
- Hood cord (for opening inside car)
- Oil change/filter
Does this seem not worth dumping into this car like this, it doesn't seem too bad of a condition, I've fallen in love unfortunately.. and for $2,000 as a base price isn't terrible to work from IMO.
- knuckles rebuild both sides ($250 in parts, $200 in tools I don't have)
- struts & coils (stock/oem, no lift) $800-$1000 all together
- this oil issue ??? ($200 maybe)
- rebuilding steering pump ($75)
- Rotors ($200)
Hahahaha, the body is actually rust free, the car was sitting for a few years after the original owner passed away. Unfortunately most of the under carriage is rusted like that included those suspension parts. I am going to have to refinish everything below it.
Thank you for the info
Thank you for the actual help, I will try this during the weekend. I managed to get my toyota manual on eBay for only $70m it will help visualize what you described, well worth the money.
Here is a picture for all the haters, go on easy on her guys.. hopefully I didn't make a fiscally irresponsible decision,
View attachment 2697559
I'm going to address just this particular leak as the noise in this thread is quite high!
That leak can come from two possible sources: upper arch pan rear seal or the rear main seal. It may not matter much if you clean that oil from the bottom of the bellhousing as that may not help you pinpoint the actual source of the leak. Still, I'd go ahead and clean it.
Here's what you need to do:
Good luck amigo!
- lie on a creeper with a telescopic mirror and a tiny flash light. Be sure to lie with your head toward the front and looking up.
- now, position yourself under that area, and remove a plastic inspection cover. Assuming yours isn't lost in which case, you'll be able to see inside the bellhousing and stare at the flexplate and the torque converter.
- now, using your mirror and a light, see if you can locate the source of the oil leak. The distance between the arch pan seal and the rear main seal is about half inch. So, look super closely and see where the oil slick originated. You might have leaks from both sources.
- if the upper pan arch seal is leaking, it's going to travel downward and right over the rear main seal. If this is the case, you *may* want to clean just this area then keep an eye on it to locate the actual source of the leak.
- Return to using organic/dino engine oil. Syn oil has no business in an old engine if not used from the beginning. It's going to make things leak worse, as you're finding out.
91-92 Are compatible for the 3FE.Went ahead and cleaned the engine compartment, bought some UV dye and poured a couple ounces, drove around for about 20 min. Appears to be a literal hole in the oil pan, not a leak from the gaskets, but a literal hole lol. I drove for a hour after finding this leak and I still don't see any other spots around the oil pump, head gaskets, etc. appears to only be the oil pan. Does anyone know if 92 is compatible with 93-97 oil pans? Parts finder is saying they are.
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Yeah I saw that the gaskets are completely different after doing a little searching for 93+ all together. I am not seeing many pans out there, there are some on cruiserparts for $250, might call some junkyards Tuesday and see if they can ship.91-92 Are compatible for the 3FE.
Some of the older FJ62 oil pans MIGHT be interchangeable, but I'm not sure on that part.
93+ definitely is NOT.
Very possible.Yeah I saw that the gaskets are completely different after doing a little searching for 93+ all together. I am not seeing many pans out there, there are some on cruiserparts for $250, might call some junkyards Tuesday and see if they can ship.
My friend suggested a potential patch job or cold weld patch.
I also saw this thread: Oil pan Compatability - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pan-compatability.509611/page-2
I am not entirely sure but does this mean I can use a later 2f pan in my 3fe since the gasket works for both pans?
Yeah picture just shows the drips but I was under the truck watching the oil droplets form from that spot then drip down. There is a small hole. the drips became more apparent after doing a full synthetic oil change (I don't know when the last change was done or with what oil) and after blasting off all the grime on the pan with a degreaser.The 3FE and 1FZ oil pans are absolutely not the same and will NOT fit.
The 3FE oil pan is NLA, but the OEM 1 piece cork gasket is still available. 12151-61011 for about $25.
The picture you posted is inconclusive at best. It's impossible to tell where the oil is coming from, but I'm not the one laying under your truck. If there's a hole it can be fixed. If it's a leaking gasket it can be replaced.
Those 22 bolts for the pan are still available as well. 91615-60820 about $0.66 each.
I would remove the pan and patch from the inside with a weld, but it depends on where the hole is and if there's a baffle in the way, etc.Yeah picture just shows the drips but I was under the truck watching the oil droplets form from that spot then drip down. There is a small hole. the drips became more apparent after doing a full synthetic oil change (I don't know when the last change was done or with what oil) and after blasting off all the grime on the pan with a degreaser.
I went ahead and checked again last night and there were no other glowing spots again just to make sure. Thank you for the part number.
How are holes typically fixed? I've seen anywhere from a cold weld to patching with various type of compounds from JB weld to other sealants.
That doesn't look like red loctite to me. It looks like high heat permatex silicone sealant to prevent leaks......Don't want to create a new thread so I have a few updates and questions:
- Turns out that the oil pan and that side of the car rusted so badly because someone spilled brake fluid there (previous owner)
- The oil pan was in such poor condition, it was not worth repairing nor possible from multiple opinions.
- I located a rust free pan this week so it's on the way, junkyard down south, really lucked out.
- I got a knuckles kit from cruiserteq as well, my questions below
What are the size of the screws for the oil pan (22 of them that go around the perimeter), i think the part # is: 90080-11675
Someone before red locktite on the studs for the drive flange that face out. and it appears to not be gear grease but more locktite on the flange where it interfaces? What is the best way to get these off? Blow torch/heat gun? What is the part number to replace these screws, they are very rusted. pic below:
View attachment 2769231
You bought a 25+ year old land cruiser, No question, you absolutely DID make a fiscally irresponsible decision.go on easy on her guys.. hopefully I didn't make a fiscally irresponsible decision,