Where to start with an oil leak, dripping from red circle area of picture

spazzyfry123

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I'd like to have a FSM for my daughter's 3rd gen as well and so far, haven't found a free PDF download yet.

Hmm. I just downloaded it and it works. Have it saved in the Files and created a Land Cruiser folder. Only wish is the ability to search, but I'm not an Apple whiz, so I may just be missing it. I'm using a new Air.

EDIT: Just figured it out :rofl: Open the PDF in "Books" and it works as I would expect. Nice!
 
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The fuel leak has been fixed actually, I had to buy another gas tank from a junk yard 3-4 hours away one trip. I also replaced the fuel pump and filter. In terms of the knuckle kits, I am buying a kit from cruiser outfitters. And yeah I am kinda worried about the rusting on the nuts/bolts, etc. So far I've done the following:

  • Belts
  • Battery
  • Spark plugs
  • Hood locking mechanism
  • Hood cord (for opening inside car)
  • Oil change/filter
  • exhaust
This month I am doing
  • knuckles rebuild both sides ($250 in parts, $200 in tools I don't have)
  • struts & coils (stock/oem, no lift) $800-$1000 all together
  • this oil issue ??? ($200 maybe)
  • rebuilding steering pump ($75)
  • Rotors ($200)
Does this seem not worth dumping into this car like this, it doesn't seem too bad of a condition, I've fallen in love unfortunately.. and for $2,000 as a base price isn't terrible to work from IMO.

Hahahaha, the body is actually rust free, the car was sitting for a few years after the original owner passed away. Unfortunately most of the under carriage is rusted like that included those suspension parts. I am going to have to refinish everything below it.

Thank you for the info

Thank you for the actual help, I will try this during the weekend. I managed to get my toyota manual on eBay for only $70m it will help visualize what you described, well worth the money.

Here is a picture for all the haters, go on easy on her guys.. hopefully I didn't make a fiscally irresponsible decision,

View attachment 2697559
A few places to shop for parts for you:


www.partsouq.com


www.summitracing.com (I bought my brakes there....Powerstop)
 
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I'm going to address just this particular leak as the noise in this thread is quite high!

That leak can come from two possible sources: upper arch pan rear seal or the rear main seal. It may not matter much if you clean that oil from the bottom of the bellhousing as that may not help you pinpoint the actual source of the leak. Still, I'd go ahead and clean it.

Here's what you need to do:

  1. lie on a creeper with a telescopic mirror and a tiny flash light. Be sure to lie with your head toward the front and looking up.
  2. now, position yourself under that area, and remove a plastic inspection cover. Assuming yours isn't lost in which case, you'll be able to see inside the bellhousing and stare at the flexplate and the torque converter.
  3. now, using your mirror and a light, see if you can locate the source of the oil leak. The distance between the arch pan seal and the rear main seal is about half inch. So, look super closely and see where the oil slick originated. You might have leaks from both sources.
  4. if the upper pan arch seal is leaking, it's going to travel downward and right over the rear main seal. If this is the case, you *may* want to clean just this area then keep an eye on it to locate the actual source of the leak.
  5. Return to using organic/dino engine oil. Syn oil has no business in an old engine if not used from the beginning. It's going to make things leak worse, as you're finding out.
Good luck amigo!

I actually have had a slow engine oil leak slow down even more once I switched to Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic 10W-30 at 245K miles. Just my experience, and it's a little hard to judge that it's gotten slower. But it certainly has not gotten worse.
 
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Went ahead and cleaned the engine compartment, bought some UV dye and poured a couple ounces, drove around for about 20 min. Appears to be a literal hole in the oil pan, not a leak from the gaskets, but a literal hole lol. I drove for a hour after finding this leak and I still don't see any other spots around the oil pump, head gaskets, etc. appears to only be the oil pan. Does anyone know if 92 is compatible with 93-97 oil pans? Parts finder is saying they are.

image0.png
 
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Went ahead and cleaned the engine compartment, bought some UV dye and poured a couple ounces, drove around for about 20 min. Appears to be a literal hole in the oil pan, not a leak from the gaskets, but a literal hole lol. I drove for a hour after finding this leak and I still don't see any other spots around the oil pump, head gaskets, etc. appears to only be the oil pan. Does anyone know if 92 is compatible with 93-97 oil pans? Parts finder is saying they are.

View attachment 2720619
91-92 Are compatible for the 3FE.

Some of the older FJ62 oil pans MIGHT be interchangeable, but I'm not sure on that part.

93+ definitely is NOT.
 
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91-92 Are compatible for the 3FE.

Some of the older FJ62 oil pans MIGHT be interchangeable, but I'm not sure on that part.

93+ definitely is NOT.
Yeah I saw that the gaskets are completely different after doing a little searching for 93+ all together. I am not seeing many pans out there, there are some on cruiserparts for $250, might call some junkyards Tuesday and see if they can ship.

My friend suggested a potential patch job or cold weld patch.

I also saw this thread: Oil pan Compatability - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pan-compatability.509611/page-2

I am not entirely sure but does this mean I can use a later 2f pan in my 3fe since the gasket works for both pans?
 
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Yeah I saw that the gaskets are completely different after doing a little searching for 93+ all together. I am not seeing many pans out there, there are some on cruiserparts for $250, might call some junkyards Tuesday and see if they can ship.

My friend suggested a potential patch job or cold weld patch.

I also saw this thread: Oil pan Compatability - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pan-compatability.509611/page-2

I am not entirely sure but does this mean I can use a later 2f pan in my 3fe since the gasket works for both pans?
Very possible.

Check with @arcteryx and @slow95 if they have any dead 3FE's.

Go to the classifieds above. I know there have been some recent dead 3FE's that went to the scrapper from various people. Work that angle and read about threads where they blew up their 3FE and are going to go LS or replace it so they have extra parts.

@jonheld may know if a 2F pan will work.
 
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The 3FE and 1FZ oil pans are absolutely not the same and will NOT fit.
The 3FE oil pan is NLA, but the OEM 1 piece cork gasket is still available. 12151-61011 for about $25.
The picture you posted is inconclusive at best. It's impossible to tell where the oil is coming from, but I'm not the one laying under your truck. If there's a hole it can be fixed. If it's a leaking gasket it can be replaced.
Those 22 bolts for the pan are still available as well. 91615-60820 about $0.66 each.
 
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The 3FE and 1FZ oil pans are absolutely not the same and will NOT fit.
The 3FE oil pan is NLA, but the OEM 1 piece cork gasket is still available. 12151-61011 for about $25.
The picture you posted is inconclusive at best. It's impossible to tell where the oil is coming from, but I'm not the one laying under your truck. If there's a hole it can be fixed. If it's a leaking gasket it can be replaced.
Those 22 bolts for the pan are still available as well. 91615-60820 about $0.66 each.
Yeah picture just shows the drips but I was under the truck watching the oil droplets form from that spot then drip down. There is a small hole. the drips became more apparent after doing a full synthetic oil change (I don't know when the last change was done or with what oil) and after blasting off all the grime on the pan with a degreaser.

I went ahead and checked again last night and there were no other glowing spots again just to make sure. Thank you for the part number.

How are holes typically fixed? I've seen anywhere from a cold weld to patching with various type of compounds from JB weld to other sealants.
 
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Yeah picture just shows the drips but I was under the truck watching the oil droplets form from that spot then drip down. There is a small hole. the drips became more apparent after doing a full synthetic oil change (I don't know when the last change was done or with what oil) and after blasting off all the grime on the pan with a degreaser.

I went ahead and checked again last night and there were no other glowing spots again just to make sure. Thank you for the part number.

How are holes typically fixed? I've seen anywhere from a cold weld to patching with various type of compounds from JB weld to other sealants.
I would remove the pan and patch from the inside with a weld, but it depends on where the hole is and if there's a baffle in the way, etc.
I would also be very curious as to what caused the hole in the first place.
 
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Don't want to create a new thread so I have a few updates and questions:

  • Turns out that the oil pan and that side of the car rusted so badly because someone spilled brake fluid there (previous owner)
  • The oil pan was in such poor condition, it was not worth repairing nor possible from multiple opinions.
  • I located a rust free pan this week so it's on the way, junkyard down south, really lucked out.
  • I got a knuckles kit from cruiserteq as well, my questions below

What are the size of the screws for the oil pan (22 of them that go around the perimeter), i think the part # is: 90080-11675

Someone before red locktite on the studs for the drive flange that face out. and it appears to not be gear grease but more locktite on the flange where it interfaces? What is the best way to get these off? Blow torch/heat gun? What is the part number to replace these screws, they are very rusted. pic below:

IMG_4444.PNG
 
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clx16

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According to loctite's website "Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C)."

hate that you have to do that though. you probably already know this, but when you put it back you don't need to do it like that. I like the blue and i just do it on the threads, not on the cone washers or splines for sure...
 
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Don't want to create a new thread so I have a few updates and questions:

  • Turns out that the oil pan and that side of the car rusted so badly because someone spilled brake fluid there (previous owner)
  • The oil pan was in such poor condition, it was not worth repairing nor possible from multiple opinions.
  • I located a rust free pan this week so it's on the way, junkyard down south, really lucked out.
  • I got a knuckles kit from cruiserteq as well, my questions below

What are the size of the screws for the oil pan (22 of them that go around the perimeter), i think the part # is: 90080-11675

Someone before red locktite on the studs for the drive flange that face out. and it appears to not be gear grease but more locktite on the flange where it interfaces? What is the best way to get these off? Blow torch/heat gun? What is the part number to replace these screws, they are very rusted. pic below:

View attachment 2769231
That doesn't look like red loctite to me. It looks like high heat permatex silicone sealant to prevent leaks......

There is some on the tip of the drive flange by the axle shaft as well that is the same color.

Use a brass hammer to hit the ends of the studs straight on to release the cone washers.
 

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I would never hate on a cruiser. It looks great. It sounds like you are heading down the right path. These vehicles are a labor of love to restore but when you do……the mods begin. Keep going, you got this.
 
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i got the oil pan today, good condition but there are these two holes that are bent any ideas on the best way to flatten these bends or am I screwed? lol

IMG_4588.jpg
 

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