Where to get extended leaf spring center pin? (1 Viewer)

[KimoTheBJ40]

Anyone know anyone selling extended leaf spring centering pins? I think that is what it is called.

Trying to install some procomp leaf springs and the stock center pins are not long enough to support the caster wedges.

Picture is of the old stripped center pin I tried to re-use but it was too rusted.

 

[numby]

I think SOR sells some. I know they sell center pins with longer heads or added spacers.

National Spring can take care of you as well.

National Spring & Alignment​

Website
Address: 4603 W Mitchell St, Milwaukee, WI 53214
Phone: (414) 645-2222

 

[RockDoc]

I believe @cruiseroutfit hooked me up when I needed some.

 

[thecrazygreek]

These should work.
AC131280 (autocraft)
Autozone.com has them, many others. Under $10 for a set.
5" Long 3/8" thick

Should work with procomp.

 

[KimoTheBJ40]

These should work.
AC131280 (autocraft)
Autozone.com has them, many others. Under $10 for a set.
5" Long 3/8" thick

Should work with procomp.

The pictures of that part # looks like the “head” of the bolt will not be tall enough to accommodate the shim. I’ll swing by the local autozone just in case though.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

I got mine from 4Crawler.com main page - https://www.4crawler.com/index.shtml

 

[jim land]

With steel shim you dont need longer head , the shim is part of the spring pack , only need longer threaded bolt

 

[jim land]

Like this

 

[GRM]

I nearly always replace the center pin with a hardened steel bolt and top lock nut. I grind down the head of the bolt to make it have a tight fit with the spring perch.

Center pins are a soft metal, designed to break in an impact. With any kind of offroad truck, I don’t want the center pin to break when I hit a rock.

 

[77mustard40]

I used these when I installed my Slyjackers, they were too long so installed the lock nut with blue lock tight and cut off the extra length off the bottom of the spring once the springs were installed. IIRC I think I got them from SOR but here is a link that might help.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[pbgbottle]

I’ve always used Allen cap bolts when replacing mine I also then usually drill a new hole a half and inch or so rearward on the spring saddle to make sure the bolt fits tight in the spring saddle

 

[-MaTTi-]

I used allen cap bolts too, I grinded the bolt head to fit to original spring seat hole.

 

[KimoTheBJ40]

I believe @cruiseroutfit hooked me up when I needed some.

Called them and they only had center pins for OME springs. Didn’t want to chance it not working so ended up calling a local spring shop (Deaver springs) and they hooked it up!

 

[KimoTheBJ40]

With steel shim you dont need longer head , the shim is part of the spring pack , only need longer threaded bolt

Mine must have been different. The shim literally just sat on top of the leaf spring around the center pin bolt head. I’m assuming this is somewhat common because the place I got the “high top” bolt knew exactly what I needed.

 

[vfrer]

I nearly always replace the center pin with a hardened steel bolt and top lock nut. I grind down the head of the bolt to make it have a tight fit with the spring perch.

Center pins are a soft metal, designed to break in an impact. With any kind of offroad truck, I don’t want the center pin to break when I hit a rock.

I disagree... you want the softer metal because it won't break on an impact, it will bend. Hardened steel is just that, hard... it will take more load it but then it will just break without bending. Would much rather bend the pin and make it home than snap it.

Eric

 

[island45]

My Napa store here on an island always has spring center bolts in stock. They are very long, cut off excess.

 

[pb4ugo]

I nearly always replace the center pin with a hardened steel bolt and top lock nut. I grind down the head of the bolt to make it have a tight fit with the spring perch.

Center pins are a soft metal, designed to break in an impact. With any kind of offroad truck, I don’t want the center pin to break when I hit a rock.

I disagree... you want the softer metal because it won't break on an impact, it will bend. Hardened steel is just that, hard... it will take more load it but then it will just break without bending. Would much rather bend the pin and make it home than snap it.

Eric

GRM, if your grinding on a hardened hex head cap screw/bolt like a grade 8, the heat from your grinding has weakened the bolt.

vfer, I'm pretty sure a spring pin is essentially a grade 5 bolt, and fine thread, so the nut and bolt has more metal contact. I always carry spare bolts because breaking a spring pin bolt is not that uncommon.

I'm with pbgbottle, I use socket head cap screws(allen head). They are usually made from alloy steel and stronger than a grade 8 bolts and the head is pretty close to the same dimension as a spring pin bolt. We wheel pretty hard and I used to break spring pins quite often. When there's an issue with something breaking often, I try to find a solution. I haven't broken a spring pin since going to SHCS. The problem I have with bolting the shim to the spring is, that when you tighten the bolt down on the shim and spring the shank of the bolt will distort/bend because of the angle of the shim. This distortion weakens the bolt regardless of what bolt you use. I no longer attach steel spring shims to the spring. My spring pin bolts only hold the leaves together and locate the axle.

 

[vfrer]

GRM, if your grinding on a hardened hex head cap screw/bolt like a grade 8, the heat from your grinding has weakened the bolt.

vfer, I'm pretty sure a spring pin is essentially a grade 5 bolt, and fine thread, so the nut and bolt has more metal contact. I always carry spare bolts because breaking a spring pin bolt is not that uncommon.

I'm with pbgbottle, I use socket head cap screws(allen head). They are usually made from alloy steel and stronger than a grade 8 bolts and the head is pretty close to the same dimension as a spring pin bolt. We wheel pretty hard and I used to break spring pins quite often. When there's an issue with something breaking often, I try to find a solution. I haven't broken a spring pin since going to SHCS. The problem I have with bolting the shim to the spring is, that when you tighten the bolt down on the shim and spring the shank of the bolt will distort/bend because of the angle of the shim. This distortion weakens the bolt regardless of what bolt you use. I no longer attach steel spring shims to the spring. My spring pin bolts only hold the leaves together and locate the axle.

I guess I need to wheel harder I've pulled a few bent ones but never broken. I also just use the head of the spring bolt to center the shim and the u-bolts hold it all together. Speaking of u-bolts, shouldn't the u-bolts be also preventing forces on the spring bolt? As would spring design and other factors I'm sure. I'll just put some spares in the box.

 

[pb4ugo]

In a perfect world, yes the ubolt should keep the axle from moving and the pin helps locate and hold it too , but you are putting wedge/shim in between the spring and axle perch, that wedgel/shim wants to spit out. I've tried dropping the shim on the spring pin then the axle over the wedge/shim and pin. The problem I found with this is the head of the spring pin/bolt is barely high enuff to capture the hole in the axle perch. I've also tried the washer/collar under the pin head to raise it up and found it bent or broke the pin. The wedge/shim still wants to spit it out.

 

[KimoTheBJ40]

In a perfect world, yes the ubolt should keep the axle from moving and the pin helps locate and hold it too , but you are putting wedge/shim in between the spring and axle perch, that wedgel/shim wants to spit out. I've tried dropping the shim on the spring pin then the axle over the wedge/shim and pin. The problem I found with this is the head of the spring pin/bolt is barely high enuff to capture the hole in the axle perch. I've also tried the washer/collar under the pin head to raise it up and found it bent or broke the pin. The wedge/shim still wants to spit it out.

Well it seems like my set up is the way to go then. The shim is merely centered on the centering bolt but not held down by it as this would cause an improper torque on the bolt itself. Also with the taller bolt head it also has plenty of meat to keep the assembly inside the axle perch.