Wheels on front end slightly outward, need to prioritize? (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Jan 21, 2016
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Location
Statesville, NC
Hi Folks,
I just noticed the wheels on the front end of my '97 are ever so slightly pointing outward at the top (or inward at the bottom). Again, it's very slight - you almost have to be looking for it to see it but I'm like that, lol...
Here's a dramatic exaggeration, but to get the point across this is what I'm trying to describe:
\-----/
Anyone know what the reason might be, and how much I need to make it a priority to address?
Thanks for any tips/suggestions!
 
Uneven tire wear would be my main concern - how's that?
 
Loose wheel bearings, worn trunion bearings as well as lose lug nuts can affect angle but usually the other way. /-----\

Try ising a jack to lift the wheel and checking for bearing tightness. Grab 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle, if present then wheel bearings need a snug up. Go ahead and check for play holding 3 and 9 ---- wiggle here indicates Tie rod end wear. Also stick a pry bar under tire and try lifting to see if you get vertical play. This play would indicate trunion bearing wear.

If its all tight there isnt much you can do about it but it isnt right. Guesses then would be from least concern, uneven tire wear .....to most concern, bent axle housing. This last one would likely not be even side to side.

Taken it off any sweeet jumps lately?
 
Loose wheel bearings, worn trunion bearings as well as lose lug nuts can affect angle but usually the other way. /-----\

Try ising a jack to lift the wheel and checking for bearing tightness. Grab 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle, if present then wheel bearings need a snug up. Go ahead and check for play holding 3 and 9 ---- wiggle here indicates Tie rod end wear. Also stick a pry bar under tire and try lifting to see if you get vertical play. This play would indicate trunion bearing wear.

If its all tight there isnt much you can do about it but it isnt right. Guesses then would be from least concern, uneven tire wear .....to most concern, bent axle housing. This last one would likely not be even side to side.

Taken it off any sweeet jumps lately?
(No jumps, lol)
Excellent - thanks for these tips. I'll see if I can do them after work today. Much appreciated!
 
Park on a smooth level surface and put a framing square up to the tire/wheel. That will also tell you a lot.
 
Jack a tire off the ground and see if it has any play side to side and back and forth. If no movement go to a tire shop and confirm tire alignment.
 
Loose wheel bearings, worn trunion bearings as well as lose lug nuts can affect angle but usually the other way. /-----\

Try ising a jack to lift the wheel and checking for bearing tightness. Grab 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle, if present then wheel bearings need a snug up. Go ahead and check for play holding 3 and 9 ---- wiggle here indicates Tie rod end wear. Also stick a pry bar under tire and try lifting to see if you get vertical play. This play would indicate trunion bearing wear.

If its all tight there isnt much you can do about it but it isnt right. Guesses then would be from least concern, uneven tire wear .....to most concern, bent axle housing. This last one would likely not be even side to side.
Ok, I was able to jack it up over lunch and both wheels are snug when wiggling at 3 and 9, but there's play on both wheels when wiggling at 12 and 6. I wouldn't say a lot of play, but enough to "hear" the wiggle. So that means my bearings need to be snugged up?
I haven't done that before so I'll search the threads here and am sure I'll find out how to do that. Hopefully a 1-banana job? ;)
 
This is a video for the whole front end rebuild. You should be able to scan it for the section upun reinstall showing tightening up the bearings.



Rough summary.

knock off dust cap, remove snap ring, remove drive flanges (6 nuts and cone washers), unfold star washer tabs, remove outer nut and thrust washer, tighten inner nut to 15-20 ft lb (YMMV) and reinstall thrust washer,star washer, and outer nut (47 ft lb) fold tabs over, reinstall drive flange and cone washers plus nut (26 ft lb) reinstall snapring, and add dust cap. Enjoy step 6 :beer:


image.jpg
 
This is a video for the whole front end rebuild. You should be able to scan it for the section upun reinstall showing tightening up the bearings.



Rough summary.

knock off dust cap, remove snap ring, remove drive flanges (6 nuts and cone washers), unfold star washer tabs, remove outer nut and thrust washer, tighten inner nut to 15-20 ft lb (YMMV) and reinstall thrust washer,star washer, and outer nut (47 ft lb) fold tabs over, reinstall drive flange and cone washers plus nut (26 ft lb) reinstall snapring, and add dust cap. Enjoy step 6 :beer:


View attachment 1396939

That's AWESOME - thanks very much!
 
not a quick job and rather messy but not hard with the right tools, I have the snap ring pliers when you need them. I do not have the bigazz socket, I just do what the previous hacks did and us a screwdriver to spin the big nuts.
 
not a quick job and rather messy but not hard with the right tools, I have the snap ring pliers when you need them. I do not have the bigazz socket, I just do what the previous hacks did and us a screwdriver to spin the big nuts.
Thanks Shaun
 
Looseness of wheel bearings or trunnion bearings would cause the tires to lean in at the top and out at the bottom (the opposite of what you are seeing). I think your situation may be completely normal. I'm not sure what the camber spec is on these axles. Mr. T may have set them up for a hair of positive camber. Mine do the same thing. The angle is barely perceptible and may actually be an illusion. The only way to change the camber on these axles is to pull the trunnions and rearrange the shims. If your axle has been rebuilt and the shims were not put back in the same order, you may have an issue but I seriously doubt it. You could take the cruiser to an alignment shop. They will be able to tell you your camber setting but they will not be able to change it. The only alignment setting a shop can realistically do on these trucks is for toe-in /toe-out. I do this myself in my driveway for free.

I have the snap ring pliers and the big azz socket at my house if you want to dig into it. If it were me, I wouldn't bother. I think you are fine.
 
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Agree with Dave here but since you found loose bearings snug them up.

Specified camber is .3-1.8*

In my experience there are no shims on 80 knuckles like there are on the 40 and 60 axles.

They do however make offset trunion bearings now to adj camber though its highly unlikely you have a set installed.

Slee sells them now. 1 and 3* adjustments Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Train Service Parts

1-1.5 negtive camber is supposed to help steering with larger tires.
 
if the wheels are not wearing bad, I would only snug the bearings. add a beefier front bumper to settle the springs might make the illusion go away
 
I would not worry about a little positive camber.

On the other hand, have you ever had it up to 88 MPH?

88.jpg
 
And if the bearing is loose just remember your not far away from an axle rebuild. Bearings only have so much wear surface befoe you get to the soft parts. I've seen them last for over a year though.
 
Mike, what's your plan for this work? I have the tools, including the hub nut socket, and I'm planning to make a 1/4M mile inspection on one of my 80s Saturday. It wouldn't be stretch to do two. If you have the parts, I'd be glad to give you a hand.

I'm in South Park, so it's not down the road, but the offer's open.
 

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