wheel spacers pt. 2 - how thick?

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Hey guys. So i FINALLY got off my butt and pulled a rim/tire off to test fit a new rim. I used some washers to figure out how thick of a spacer i need to clear the caliper. i definitely need thicker than .25". I started w/ 2 washers and it didn't work.

Here's some pics:
Put 3 washers - didn't fit.


4 worked:
4= 3/8" (very close).


With 4 on:
This shows how much thread is left - enough?!? or do i need longer studs? (how is that done - pita?)


and some more misc. shots of TRE's - everything looks good clearance wise?

(also playing around with ULTRA wide lens - almost a fisheye) it's nice to hold the camera in the wheel well and get a decent shot... fast glass=good. (Tokina 11-16mm 2.8)





So 4 work and are about 3/8" - from that pic should I get 3/8" or 1/2" spacers? Studs too short? TRE's enough clearance?

Also - the rims i got custom BS are 8" or 9"? I threw the tape on them and got this shot. It looks like edge to edge 9", but i thought they were 8" rims... It doesn't really matter since i'm shooting for some 12.5" wide tires, but curious if i'm measuring this right.

Here is that shot:
crappy shot sorry...


alright i'll go calm down and quit uploading a ton of pics...

thanks for the help!:cheers:

rob
 

GLTHFJ60

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Clearances look good.

You'll need longer studs, but I'm not sure how much longer. As for replacing them, you have to disassemble the hub, put it on a press and press out each stud then press on the new ones.
 

BG_TX

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Bare in mind I am a complete off-road, wrenching, landcruiser, wheel spacer newb... but I thought spacers were easy to install providing the spacer is thick enough.
  1. Remove Wheel
  2. Put Loctite on existing studs
  3. Slide spacer over existing studs and tighten
  4. Slide Wheel over studs integrated in the spacer and tighten
  5. Done
Is pressing longer studs required for shallow spacers whereas a deeper spacer will swallow the existing stud and lugnut?

It is ok to laugh at me... I don't mind. :)
 

GLTHFJ60

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Is pressing longer studs required for shallow spacers whereas a deeper spacer will swallow the existing stud and lugnut?
Exactly. Also, using a spacer that does not have integrated studs allows you to check the torque on the hub studs without taking the wheels off.

As for which way is better, I don't know. I do know that checking the torque on the studs frequently is the most important part.
 
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thx guys. I saw those, but wanted to avoid going that wide. with bigger tires i'd like to keep them inside the wheel well as much as possible. so just looking for enough to clear the caliper.

my goal was to avoid spacers all together, but i got a style of rim that is too flat on the face, so no way to avoid it hitting the caliper - regardless of back spacing.

how difficult is it to press out the old and in w/ new studs?

thx!

rob
 

MANUCHAO

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Dont know what BS you are using on them rims but I run 3.5 bs steelies with a 1" inch on the front and 2" on the back and that makes my wheels flush with the fenders...

I dont like them sticking out...
 

boots4

 
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how difficult is it to press out the old and in w/ new studs?

thx!

rob
You'll have to take the hub/disc off the spindle. You'll need a 54mm socket for the wheel nut but that's a good thing to have anyways when owning a landcruiser. The studs hold the disc to the hub. It's not that hard but the difficulty you might run into is the diameter of the new studs. Make sure you take an old one with you, a set of calipers and match the new studs you get. If not the new studs could be too small and not bit into the hub or they will be too big and will be very difficult to pound in. Get some brass drifts to pound on so that you don't bugger up the new studs.
 

Matt60

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i'd just get some 1.5" spacers from marlin or trail gear and be done with it. they do make it a little wider but when you air down you'll have all that much more clarance clarance.
 

ntsqd

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The new studs need to be long enough to give you at least 1-1/2 stud diameters of thread engagement in the lug nuts.
I'd rather have slightly longer studs and thin spacers than going to thicker/wider bolt-on spacers that have a second set of studs. The stress' in that type of spacer make me cringe.
 

Elbert

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Dont know what BS you are using on them rims but I run 3.5 bs steelies with a 1" inch on the front and 2" on the back and that makes my wheels flush with the fenders...

I dont like them sticking out...
Got a ?

Why run a 1 inch spacer on the front and a 2inch spacer on the rear? I realize the 1inch at the front is to clear caliper or steering linkage....what's the deal on the rear wheel spacers?
 
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The new studs need to be long enough to give you at least 1-1/2 stud diameters of thread engagement in the lug nuts.
I'd rather have slightly longer studs and thin spacers than going to thicker/wider bolt-on spacers that have a second set of studs. The stress' in that type of spacer make me cringe.
thx ntsqd. good rule of thumb.

I really was hoping to avoid this altogether, and could've got 1/3 the $ rims if i knew i was going to end up running spacers anyway... oh well. when it's all done it should look nice.

Good question Elbert on the whole 1" front 2" back. No clue - i don't want to run spacers at all, and if i need some in the front just to clear caliper then they will be as thin as possible.

thanks for the help everyone. Going to order up a set soon. Still trying to figure out 3/8 or 1/2, but no rush as no tires on rims yet anyway.

another thread soon - 'Will 35's fit?' :eek:

thx!

rob
 
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I appreciate the offer Turbeau! but i don't want 1"+ spacers.

I found some Bear billet spacers on Jegs for 50-60$ set. just trying to decide 3/8" or 1/2" now.

what is that stupid raised horizontal bar on the caliper for anyway? w/o it i probably could fit close to 1/4".

thanks!

rob
 

GLTHFJ60

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what is that stupid raised horizontal bar on the caliper for anyway? w/o it i probably could fit close to 1/4".
If the ridge on the caliper is the only think holding you back from mounting these puppies, then I'd hit it with a grinder and call it a day. If it wasn't there however, are you sure the rim wouldn't hit the TRE?
 

ntsqd

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OTOH if you set up the system to use a ground-on caliper then all those in the future also have to be ground on. Might be tough to do if you're in the boonies somewhere.

Most likely that bulge has a very good reason for existing. Like being the backside of the pass-thru passage between the piston bores. Even though cast iron is pretty cheap they wouldn't have added any extra if they didn't need to. One cent per caliper would add up over the production life-span of the caliper.
 
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i'll just run the size needed to clear - good point.

Unfortunately they will not fit w/o spacer - even if i ground the nub off the caliper... so might as well get one that clears it and call it a day.

thx guys!

rob
 

Elbert

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i'll just run the size needed to clear - good point.

Unfortunately they will not fit w/o spacer - even if i ground the nub off the caliper... so might as well get one that clears it and call it a day.

thx guys!

rob
I just ordered some 1 inch spacers with the integrated studs. At frist I wanted to avoid spacers too, but since there are few choices to be made it looks like spacers may be a necessary evil. I just got my rockcrawler wheels in yesterday and if the tires I want are avaliable at Sam's I may get them mounted today. I've not test fitted the wheels yet, I bought the spacers to make sure they will work if needed. I did get the 15*8 wheel with 3.5 BS. I belive its the 97 series wheel. It would be cool if they mounted normally without issue. I'm adverse to spacers but don't see a real workable solution without them if the wheel is hitting the steering linkage or caliper. I should know what works by Friday at some point. If I need spacers and they don't show up by Friday I'll be an unhappy camper. Suppose to go up to Skyline / HiTop area (AL) for a run on Sat.
 
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