Wheel offset check needed for 2014 LX570 (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I'd also add that aired down tires with a large contact patch are more kind to the terrain. I didn't know that until I took some Tread Lightly training last summer. Improve the ride, get better traction, and be more considerate to the trails at the same time. win - win - win

 

[grinchy]

Not sure it’s possible with your tire size but have you ever A/Bd your setup with spacer (+30) against the OE (+60?) without spacer for ride characteristics?

A 295/17r18 on +60mm offset is almost certainly rubbing the UCA. You can measure the clearance from a 285 (for example if that is what is on your rig now) and the UCA just by putting a ruler on it, no lift would be required. I ran 275/65r18 for a bit at 60mm and that was about 10mm from the UCA. It's been three years, but that's my recollection anyways.

 

[tbisaacs]

Not sure it’s possible with your tire size but have you ever A/Bd your setup with spacer (+30) against the OE (+60?) without spacer for ride characteristics?

No— It would rub like crazy on the UCA with a 295mm wide tire @ 60mm offset. And TBH, I thought I had sworn off 0-offset, but damn.

 

[AnyMal]

Good job doing your homework and you're on the right track. I'm bringing up things for the sake of discussion but in the end, it's all a compromise and it's up to the individual to choose their poison.

Couple notes:
- I'm often a stickler for weights. But not as much when it comes to wheels and tires. Yes, unsprung weight is not a great thing, but for an off-road vehicle, I wouldn't pinch pounds the way I would for a sports car. It's not the impact to MPG the way it's often presented on these boards, as it's probably a lesser factor to tire, tire design, compound, etc. Weight in the wheel generally means more structure and durability. As your going for a smaller wheel, it'll have the benefit of less rotational inertia. Tires also, more weight there can often mean more rubber, durability, performance. My wheel and tire package is probably almost 110lbs. Where it earns its keep is that when aired down, it works as an integral part of the suspension. Also AHC handles it well, with sport mode handing the big wheel and tire in the fast stuff better than I thought it could.

I once thought the same that weight was crucial and i find it now to be over-exaggerated myself. You can definitely feel it but i dont think its always a bad thing either.
When a package is too light it can make even the softest AHC setting firmer than normal. I experienced this on my 70 lb setup prior to the swap.
I now have a better response to comfort dial in each position it is more pronounced.

Your setup is a bit much for me but sacrificing some performance for OEM peace of mind (specially with kids) i dont blame you at all.
Whats interesting is AHC concerns and wether or not that is impeding any damping is really up to some other factors as well.
You've said elsewhere that the system adapts the damping and i know it does based on road condition, speed, so on so forth as its described in all official documentation but is there any indication that wheel travel is attuned to a particular range or acceleration? I am happy with my setup i am exactly at what the truck shipped with at 80 lbs. (if that was ever optimized for is beyond me but i do know the speedos are corrected for the 21").
What i have been thinking about lately is things like shift mapping and auto cruise control braking force. Do we have any idea if these are flashed per vin specific to fitment? I have read through the INSANE ECT calibration procedures etc in the FSM but i dont know if thats done at factory or just preprogrammed (the FSM being repair replacment guides to reset things).

I would wager it would do a lot of good to a lot of members to recalibrate their ECT, ABS (not to mention radar angles etc with lifts) after their mods.
I don't want to insult anyone but i find it a bit crude to add so much to a truck outside range of design throw 1,000 extra pounds in it and then just expect all the safety systems to work properly and efficiency / performance metrics to pan out. There is surely a better way and a lot of the complaints of larger tires in gearing / transmission could probably be at the very least mitigated somewhat. For the amount of truly mechanically gifted ppl on MUD there is a noticeable absence of those that have firm interest in electronic and computer controlled systems.

- A/T, R/T, and M/T tires particularly in LT and Floatation sizing don't have weak sidewall in the way H/T tire do. Of course some variants and model of tires do this better than others. I'm with @CharlieS that they work as a big part of the treadface when aired down. It's pretty amazing how they contort to sharp obstacles off-road and do their thing.

Yes this is true and another good reason i went LT. Toyo themselves told me the old sidewall was 2 ply on the P rated despite being "tough".
Only thing i meant in my earlier post was that sidewall being weaker only relative to tread face.
I think in your case with your lower aspect a larger percentage of your sidewall is reinforced with lugs. That seems like an advantage in itself.
On my 285/70s i have about 50% smooth sidewall that could be cut where it would otherwise be just a scratched wheel instead of a potential puncture.

I made a post a while ago on the subject of sidewall lug integration designs to some (now unsurprising) ridicule on tire talk. I swear if you are one degree outside of the monoculture on the forum people think they can just start mocking you. ANYWAY The interesting observation ive made is that the BFG K02 is the only tire i see that has a FULLY integrated sidewall lug. Meaning every other tire ive seen from all the other manufacturers have a pronounced non contiguously molded side lug pattern.
Take a look for yourself. I have not been able to find a single other manuf that forms their tire like BFG does the K02 and now also the lighter version just released.

For the interest of durability when aired down, i think that tire cannot be overlooked and im searching for some more background on that.
Either way i find it very odd and dont like the idea that some rubber is just added on for looks that does not provide support where the two faces meet in arguably the most crucial spot of the tire when aired down. That "valley" between tread face and sidewall lugs is indeed thinner than it would be if produced in whatever way BFG is producing their K02. They have a mold mark much further toward the hub center.


Anyway these are just some curiosities im entertaining and would love to hear if anyone has more info on this.
Getting the most thorough understanding is always my aim and also a great way to approach the mods down the line with more confidence.

 

[AnyMal]

No— It would rub like crazy on the UCA with a 295mm wide tire @ 60mm offset. And TBH, I thought I had sworn off 0-offset, but damn.

Even for the many many windshield cracks and paint chip casualties i still approve.....
Some states don't allow poke though right?

I wont ever go OEM offsets for aesthetic reasons alone, i think my stance is perfect at +25 on my setup in that regard.
If i could get a good 18" wheel in a +35 i would probably do it for the geometry but no more than that.
They dont really exist and my wheels are nice and light so im doing some fender guards probably tomorrow. (its still 80F here in Austin im so over it).
If they turn out well ill post a thread lol.

 

[tbisaacs]

Even for the many many windshield cracks and paint chip casualties i still approve.....
Some states don't allow poke though right?

I wont ever go OEM offsets for aesthetic reasons alone, i think my stance is perfect at +25 on my setup in that regard.
If i could get a good 18" wheel in a +35 i would probably do it for the geometry but no more than that.
They dont really exist and my wheels are nice and light so im doing some fender guards probably tomorrow. (its still 80F here in Austin im so over it).
If they turn out well ill post a thread lol.

If you got the cash, Evo Corse will make the dakaarzero in any offset that you want ＄＄＄.

 

[grinchy]

Only thing i meant in my earlier post was that sidewall being weaker only relative to tread face.

here's another wrap around lug pattern
Milestar Patagonia M/T

 

[AnyMal]

here's another wrap around lug pattern
Milestar Patagonia M/T

View attachment 2861249

Nice! Although the seam is visible, it is indeed a "unilug" shoulder design. Looks pretty sick too.

Here is the "seamless" design for reference.

When aired down on your steering axle that would make for really solid and wide contact patch which im guessing is more durable and less likely to shear.
On all the others you can see where the tread face ends and meets the sidewall pattern exactly at the shoulder and joined at that seam.
I know its not all of them, but for sure some of them are just two separate elements butted together.
Seems like mostly MTs that are like this Patagonia, maybe some "true" hybrids as well.

Either way this is probably a rare failure mode if at all and just an interesting thing ive been thinking about.
Perhaps someone knows what the integrity of this sort of fused rubber weld is like and can enlighten me.
Theres so much detail in even the most mundane things.

 

[AnyMal]

If you got the cash, Evo Corse will make the dakaarzero in any offset that you want ＄＄＄.

pssshhhhhh. If you can get a solid weight out of them for me i might...

 

[tys4x4]

I just got the alpha echo’s in 18” +25 offset. With 295’s at this offset there’s plenty of breathing room between the tire sidewall and UCA’s. They poke out from the body just a little bit which I like but not too much, and it took minimal trimming to eliminate any rubbing issues.

 

[CharlieS]

If you got the cash, Evo Corse will make the dakaarzero in any offset that you want ＄＄＄.

Although they are not cheap, they are still quite a lot less expensive than a new set of Heritage or TRD Pro BBS wheels, and price competitive with used Rock Warriors, at least around here.

 

[mfeferman]

I realize this is an old thread, but just to confirm. I’m running a 2015 LX. I bought some OEM 14 LC 200 wheels that I believe are 60mm offset. If I have that offset number correct and and also understand correctly that a positive offset brings the wheel closer to the center of the truck, adding a 1.25” hub-centric spacer should alleviate the concern about rubbing/hitting any of the suspension components, correct? Of course, I believe I’m going to have to modify the mud flaps or plastic trim around the wheels. I’m thinking 295/70/18.

 

[tbisaacs]

I realize this is an old thread, but just to confirm. I’m running a 2015 LX. I bought some OEM 14 LC 200 wheels that I believe are 60mm offset. If I have that offset number correct and and also understand correctly that a positive offset brings the wheel closer to the center of the truck, adding a 1.25” hub-centric spacer should alleviate the concern about rubbing/hitting any of the suspension components, correct? Of course, I believe I’m going to have to modify the mud flaps or plastic trim around the wheels. I’m thinking 295/70/18.

This setup will work fine.

 

[TeCKis300]

I realize this is an old thread, but just to confirm. I’m running a 2015 LX. I bought some OEM 14 LC 200 wheels that I believe are 60mm offset. If I have that offset number correct and and also understand correctly that a positive offset brings the wheel closer to the center of the truck, adding a 1.25” hub-centric spacer should alleviate the concern about rubbing/hitting any of the suspension components, correct? Of course, I believe I’m going to have to modify the mud flaps or plastic trim around the wheels. I’m thinking 295/70/18.

Spot on. 1.25" spacers will do the trick.

Teasing at details, 1" spacers can be better (~+35 offset) in some regards like better clearance against the fenders, less rubbing, and better road manners. For a 2015, you'll need to watch the studs and provide clearance reliefs in the wheels.

 

[mfeferman]

Spot on. 1.25" spacers will do the trick.

Teasing at details, 1" spacers can be better (~+35 offset) in some regards like better clearance against the fenders, less rubbing, and better road manners. For a 2015, you'll need to watch the studs and provide clearance reliefs in the wheels.

Thank you

 

[overLXnder]

I've got a 2010 LX570 and I'm currently running Grappler G2s 285/65/18 but I would like to go beefier and add some spacers. Thinking of going with Falken WildPeak AT3W 295/70/18 and 1" spacers. Does that sound right? Any recommendations on spacer brands?

 

[tbisaacs]

I've got a 2010 LX570 and I'm currently running Grappler G2s 285/65/18 but I would like to go beefier and add some spacers. Thinking of going with Falken WildPeak AT3W 295/70/18 and 1" spacers. Does that sound right? Any recommendations on spacer brands?

I ran this setup for a while and was very happy. I'm not a spacer purist, ran some generic aluminum spacers from ebay and some how didn't manage to kill my whole family.