Wheel bearings -semi float axle (1 Viewer)

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kcustom73

Stretched it...
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Jun 26, 2007
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Location
Ottawa, ON, Canada
Hi All,

Just need to confirm a few items on replacing the outter wheel bearing on a semi-loat axle before I screw something up ;)

1-When installing new bearing. do you press them in until the bottom out on the housing tube?

2-The seal get pressed in until it bottoms out on the bearing?

3-No grease on the bearing?

4-How hard should it be to put the axle back in? Should it slide in without effort or do you need to tap it in.

This is all on a 75 later style semi-float axle without the pressed on collar on the axle.

Thank you for the help.
 
I'm a little confused by your post. I may be wrong on this but here's what I know.

-I opened up a rear axle from a 72ish 40 and it was a c clip axle- not a semi float.

-I just put seals in a c clip ford 8.8 this weekend. If the toyota c clips are the same:
1) Press the bearing until it bottoms out.
2) The seal will bottom out in the housing before it gets to the bearing, there are two different diameters in the end of the axle tube.
3) Grease on the bearing won't hurt anything, but it's not needed as the gear oil from the diff is used to lube it (just make sure you fill it up to the proper level).

In my experience I have classified axles as c clip (chevy's, ford 8.8, jeep Dana 35); semi float (Ford 9"; Dana 44, toyota mini truck, etc); and full float (GM 14 bolt; dana 60 etc with the gigantic hub in the center).

-C clips are as above
-Semi floats have the bearing pressed onto the axle shaft not into the axle housing.
-Full floats have an axle that is just a piece of bar with splines on each end (ie the hub is completely seperate from the axle shaft).


:beer:
 
Bearing goes in until it bottoms out. Seal goes in just flush with shoulder. Here is a pic....


image-1875869899.jpg

Axle should just slide right in once the splines line up. No tapping needed.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
image-1875869899.jpg
 
nice pic, but isn't the front spring supposed to go behind, or is that a 72-74 thing? ;) (FSM: 7-23 and 7-24 figures)

Nope.... It's correct for a 77.


image-3577265935.jpg



Also, to the OP. I'm pretty sure you are correct in calling this a semi-float axle. At least that is what it is called in my FSM. It definitely has the c-clips to keep it together, but Toyota says you have either a semi-float or a full float.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
image-3577265935.jpg
 
I would agree that a c clip axle is by definition still a semi floater. However, a lot of folks like to make the distinction.

The main issue for off roaders is when you break an axle. In a c clip if you break an axle there is nothing to hold the wheel on the vehicle (the jeep Dana 35 is notorious for this). On the pressed bearing style at least it will hold the wheel on for rolling around or possibly driving short distances.

I'm not sure, but I think that many race tracks do not allow c clip axles for safety reasons. There are c clip elimination kits for some c clip axles (like the ford 8.8 on many mustangs).
 
Thanks for the info copenhagen.
 
the springs were on the inside before they used the retaining clips on the outside with the clips.
 
c clip IS a semi floating axle...
 
c clip IS a semi floating axle...
X2, Typically in a semi float axle, the axle carries the weight of the vehicle & is driven by the diff carrier. A Full float has hub & bearings on the end of the axle tube(similar to the frt end) which carries the weight of the vehicle & the axles slides thru the axle hub & housing & is driven by the diff w/no vehicle weight on the axle itself. Also lightly lubricate the seal b4 assembly. Some oil on the bearing is good. The bearing will be lubricated when you go around a turn if the diff fluid level is properly topped off.
 
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nice pic, but isn't the front spring supposed to go behind, or is that a 72-74 thing? ;) (FSM: 7-23 and 7-24 figures)

That's strange, with my biased view, blowing up that pic looks like the left hook is in the opposite direction to the right one:


View attachment 778606

Then here....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=3452432&postcount=6

which is all I have to go on really...


I am not sure if you are arguing or asking a question? If I did it wrong then I have no problem with someone pointing it out, but I am having trouble following what you are pointing out?.

The page that I copied and pasted out of the FSM clearly shows both springs on the front (out) side of the shoes. You do understand that my picture is of the REAR axle and brake assembly? The post that you linked is quoting Coolermans FRONT drum assembly and the picture in that post is of a FRONT assembly. You can see the locking hub body in the picture. If I have it wrong then please be more clear what IS wrong so that I can change it but as far as I can tell it is exactly as the FSM shows it to be, right down to the upper hooks on the springs turning towards one another. My 77 has factory discs on the front.

*****EDIT***** Holy s*** you are right! My apologies. I went back and looked at the FSM again. I actually studied a 1971 FSM and the later 1975 FSM that was the beginning of front disk brakes. It DOES state that the rear assemblies should have the "front side return spring hooked on to the inner side of the shoes" and the "install rear side return spring to the outer side". Guess I will have to tear that back down and correct it! Good catch and sincerely thanks for bringing it to my attention.
 
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Sorry if the internet made me sound like a &^*&^ - it wasn't the intent :D

Doubt it's critical - just a detail I've seen in a few places and it's the current area I'm overhauling so I've spent some time reading...and now trying to share.
 

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