What's wrong w/ my truck??? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Threads
3
Messages
11
Location
Charlotte, NC
My FJ60 runs great when it's cold. It idles fine and drives great. However, for some reason or another, after it has been driven for a while it will continue to run fine as long as you keep moving, but will stall out at a stop sign or stop light. In order to keep it running I have to keep my foot on the gas. If I don't, the idle drops all the way down and my truck dies. Can someone tell me what is going on?

I've only had this truck for a short period of time, and have done a little work on it. I also had a Toyota specialist (not a dealership) look at it and do some work on it as well. I have no idea what is wrong.

Please help!
 
check your fuse box, there should be one called engine, iif not that check all your little vacume hoses.
Once mine did that but it was because of a vacume sylenoid.
 
Check your ground on your fuel cut solenoid (on the carb - green connector). It should 'click' audibly when you have the ignition 'ON' and plug it in. If it doesn;t run another ground wire to it. Also check for vac leaks around the manifold. Often the leaks will get bad enough when the engine is warm to make you lose your idle.
 
idle solenoid. same thing happend to me. took two years before i fixed it. chase the wiring ALL the way to the harness, then keep going. my problem was in the harness, where it rubbed back-and-forth accross the wheel well, until it wore throught to the solenoid wire. it would bounce, short, the open, then close again.
drove me nuts.
one more thing. wrap the whole thing with high-temp fibreglass tape
hammer
 
It runs and idles ok when its cold because you are running with the choke on and a richer mixture. Once it warms up and you close the choke the mixture leans out and if you have any vacuum leaks, the add to the leaner mixture and the truck stalls. Also when parts warmup and cooldown they change shape and it can make a small vac leak worse. Or the other school of thought is that if you are idling above 1200rpm you take the idle circuit out of the picture and the idle solenoid would not affect the engine. If you close the choke you bring the idle down as it leans out and the idle circuit comes into play again.
 
I only run the choke for 2 or 3 minutes after I start the truck. That's all it seems to need. After those 2 or 3 minutes, she'll idle beautifully at 700 - 800 rpms. I just drove it around for a half hour or so with no problems stalling. It only seems to want to stall after extended periods of time on the road. The last two times it stalled after stopping I had been driving for at least two hours straight.

Could I possibly have gunk in my carb, or somewhere else in my fuel system? I called a mechanic I've used in the past today and he said vacuum leaks wouldn't be an issue and that it is probably something with my fuel system. On the other hand, it keeps coming up on this forum, so there must be at least some merrit to those suggestions telling me to find any vacuum leaks.

I topped off my tank with some premium and aded a bottle of STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner. I figured I probably need it anyway, so what the hell.

Any other suggestions? I really appreciate everyone's responses so far.
 
I would definitely check the fuel cut solenoid. It can get stuck, have a nick in the o-ring or like already mentioned may not have juice going to it.
A long shot may be the carb cooling fan. I suspect from the name of it, that it will keep the carb cool as the engine temp goes up. Like I said, it's a long shot but see if it turns on after running it for awhile.

Oh yeah, make sure your gas cap has a good seal too
 
sounds like vapor lock to me. my truck even had a hard time running when the FCOS had a bad ground. annoyed the crap out of me, and took forever to figure it out...
 

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